Powerbox or PODtronics or ?

I see a big price difference for these items on Old Britts.
What I am having trouble finding is what advantage (assumed) the Powerbox has over the PODtronics that justifies the cost difference.
I have kick-start Commando with 12V positive ground so assuming the single-phase is what I would need.
Not looking to replace battery, just dump some old and tired electronic parts and prepare for future new wiring harness.

I have kick-start Commando with 12V negative ground so assuming the single-phase is what I would need.

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Original would be +ve Ground, so if its been altered it could now be 3 phase, I upgraded mine to 3 phase.

kommando said:

I have kick-start Commando with 12V negative ground so assuming the single-phase is what I would need.

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Original would be +ve Ground, so if its been altered it could now be 3 phase, I upgraded mine to 3 phase.

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My bad! POSITIVE ground (just changed the original post).

if one of the purposes is upgrading to more modern electronics then the Power Box eliminates the need for the Lucas Zenor Diode as it is a combination rectifier, regulator and zenor

which you would still need if you got the cheaper rectifier/regulator


Power Box
Power Box and Dynamo RegulatorThe power box is a self regulating rectifier with an internal current and voltage storing capacitor. Connecting directly to the alternator, the output is approximately 15 volts with no current being drawn and 14.5 volts with some load. These values are just right for charging a 12 volt battery or running the electrics direct. The unit has been designed using the latest power technology semi-conductors to provide stable, direct current from standard permanent magnet alternators. Three types are available: Single phase, Bi phase and Three phase. Some are available with a charging lamp control, or lighting delay circuit, which prevents the lights being turned on until after the engine is started. Ensure you have the desired unit before fitting. Single phase and Bi phase units control 200 watts and three phase units control 300 watts. As a rule of thumb Single phase power boxes are suitable for use with most British Bikes, pre 1975 with alternators two, or three wire. Bi phase are suitable for use with most Italian and French machines equipped with three wire alternators. Three phase will suit some British machines post 1975 with three wire alternators and the majority of Japanese three wire machines.http://www.boyerbransden.com/PBdynamo.html

The need for a starting capacitor is just dead(pun intended). The Podtronic unit is easy to get, reasonably priced and as long as you use the proper rated one, they rarely fail. Simplify the wiring by using this these.

A 16 amp stator(192 watts), a 200 watt Podtronic unit and a 14ah battery and your system will be solid.

I've got a Podtronics on my Commando (installed by the P.O.) and a Tympanium on my Atlas (installed by me).
They seem functionally equivalent and have been durable and trouble free. It is nice to jettison some of the old Lucas
hardware hiding under the tank.

Mark

A reg One from Al Oz, or A reg three, smaller and cheaper than Podtronics, powerbox etc. and you can ditch the zeners. On a MK3 the alternator output is fed to 3 places, the zeners, the warning light assimulator and of course the rectifier. Feed the output directly to an A reg one, keep the capacitor if you really want too, and get a battery status monitor at the same time and wire in to console and there should be noting else you need - simples really.

Madnorton said:

A reg One from Al Oz, or A reg three, smaller and cheaper than Podtronics, powerbox etc. and you can ditch the zeners. On a MK3 the alternator output is fed to 3 places, the zeners, the warning light assimulator and of course the rectifier. Feed the output directly to an A reg one, keep the capacitor if you really want too, and get a battery status monitor at the same time and wire in to console and there should be noting else you need - simples really.

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No idea what device you are referring to and a google search did not help find it.

Surely it can't be that a well kept secret, member of the NOC and been selling products for decades, here is the link

http://www.aoservices.co.uk/a_reg.htm

Podtronics box is no brainer last forever efficient for 3 phase like Peel used.
A single phase Tympanium in on my Trixie but kept the blue can/cap to help kick off if the small battery low or charge wires break so can slower push off on dead battery. Never heard a report of these 2 boxes failing. Zenor and regulator are what get replaced with the solid state gizmos. Think of the capacitors as just tiny extra battery to smooth spikes in charging and discharging into ignition system though most cleaver designers get the alternator current spikes to coincide with the ignition spark timing sort of magneto like.

Update and question...

I got the podtronic unit from Old Britts.
I actually ordered the Boyer Powerbox, but Fred has discontinued them due to recurring problems.
So he advised me to get the podtronic. Simpler and much cheaper too!

Now ready to install. Can toss the Zenir and rectifier - instructions clear on that and how to wire the new unit.

The remaining piece of old and probably useless Lucas electronics is now the capacitor.
I would like to toss it and apparently that is not a problem as long as I run a good battery.

My question is: what do I do with the two brown/green wires the run into it?
Connect them to each other, terminate both, or something else?

tomspro said:

The remaining piece of old and probably useless Lucas electronics is now the capacitor.
I would like to toss it and apparently that is not a problem as long as I run a good battery.

My question is: what do I do with the two brown/green wires the run into it?
Connect them to each other, terminate both, or something else?

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Connect them together.
The two wires should be brown/blue.

THANKS!
Colors have morphed after 40+ years ...

Al Oz products and service have been around for years and have proven reliability and warranty. I will always try and use the small unknown makers as their products are usually better made, better spec, and cheaper with good warranty if ever needed. These guys make these products and put their name to it, so quality has to be good and the international shipping rates are usually good too, most probably the reason when web searches are done you find nothing as they are so reliable.
Another good product for rectification / regulation for you lot with older Nortons / other British / German / European machines is http://dynamoregulators.com/index.php I used a DVR4 to control a Noris Lund generator on a Puch 175 SVS and it worked a treat.
I suggest look around the net and open out searches and you just find what you need local and cheaper

I've never had a problem with a Boyer Powerbox that I run with a high output 3 phase alternator in my Triumph Hardtail........I've not had a problem with my 3 phase Podtronics unit either....I'd recommend the Podtronics as it's smaller and easier to find a place to put it.

I've got a 3 phase PODtronics unit for the Norton but have never installed it. I used their regular unit when I converted the Dutch Army bike to 12V with no problems.

Never "toss" your old Norton parts. It may be just what your buds on here are looking for. Or some future owner may want/need them when your bike is in a museum 100 years from now. My bike went through many iterations over the 40+ years and now has come back around close to stock-looking. I even found the original squishy hand grips in the junkbox.

Russ (serious hoarding problem)

batrider said:

Never "toss" your old Norton parts.

Russ (serious hoarding problem)

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Russ - I used the word loosely - not actually throwing away any old parts (except for the original head steady which is true junk).
I will either sell it, or donate to a local friend who does recycled art (old pea shooters and worn out Girling shocks).

Here is my podtronic install - used one of the horn mounting holes. (black wire not connected yet 8) )

A reg one is smaller and far cheaper than podtronics.

I know this is an old thread but I have a 3 phase powerbox fitted and I've found that the output has momentary gaps that show up on a digital voltmeter in my headlight. This has lead to momentary cuts in ignition with the new trispark. Wiring direct to the battery solves this problem. According to Steve Kelly at Trispark there should be a capacitor in the output circuit of the powerbox to smooth delivery voltage and they can fail. Has anybody got any idea about wiring in another capacitor to do the smoothing job?

Look here voltage-regulators-t22113.html it may explain what you see. BTW, your DVM may be showing what is going on for real IF your load is not high enough OR IF you are trying to run without a battery. An oscilloscope will show what is really going on.

Jean