Plastic fuel filter (2016)

or this

Plastic fuel filter (2016)

Where did you purchase these? 1/4" or 5/16"?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I like clear lines and filters.
This crud collection shows me time to change after about 20 tanks of E10 in my clean steel tank.
Run with no filter? No way!

Plastic fuel filter (2016)
 
i use thick walled 1/4" ID clear fuel line I get from a place that sells utralite aircraft parts it stay soft for a long time I use little sintered bronze filters that insert into the line
 
So how does one clean those Pingel sintered bronze fuel filters anyway? Mine I think are due for it.
 
The guys at Sudco recommend and sell polyurethane fuel line. The Sudco catalog states:
  • Can accommodate up to 10% Alcohol content in fuel.
  • Resists weathering, kinking, tearing, abrasion and impact.
  • Contains no plasticizers that cause hardening.
 
I've had my Commando for 11 years and ridden about 12,000 miles, all without any sort of fuel filter. What sort of calamitous events should I be expecting as a result of this omission? :?:
If you ever have a load of crap nesting inside your petrol tank, then I think the answer is obvious.
 
I have been using Tygon lines without issue - any others have experience on what lines are best?
 
Heat... Or ethanol...?

Either way, that's why I prefer Pingel. Brass body and sintered (bronze?) cleanable filter element.

And all with unrivalled flow rates.

All things considered, they're a bargain IMHO.
Where do you buy them Nigel?
Cheers
Rob
Edit: they appear to go down to 5/16" ID on their website - is that what you use?
 
Last edited:
I buy them from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-...921298?hash=item545f49be92:g:vZUAAOSwzH5bPNym

But they silly expensive compared to the normal stuff you can buy.

And, they're kinda heavy, so they need the lines zip tying to the frame or similar IMHO.

And, you already have the ones that Matt suppliers, and you have a refurbished and clean tank, so I'm kinda wonderin' why you'd need 'em...
Just looking ahead for when the conical/clear ones need replacement.
Also - I'm not a fan of the black lines (can't see what's happening) - looking at going to yellow/clear Tygon or similar.
Stay safe!
 
Since the mid 90's, I Have used yellow clear tygon "4040" in a generous fuel harness with low horizontal runs. If there is water or particulates (almost never), a quick disconnect from the tank for a back drain of the hose... does me just fine for another season. The 4040 was renewed after 15 years but was still flexable. I've never run additional inline filters.
 
tygon LP-1200?
from saint-gobain the maker... I have talked to the pennsylvania USA headquarters.
"The patent-pending design and robust multi-layer construction offers superior fitting retention and resistance to swelling, hardening and cracking caused by hydrocarbon-based fluids."

multilayer construction?
sounds similar to 4040
The inner layer is E-10 resistant but the cheaper outer bulk cover is NOT.
Not a problem for use on our bikes, but they die miserably when used in chainsaws and other 2stroke OPE where the exterior is exposed to ethanol where it runs inside the gas tank to the filter/pickup.
 
I have been happy running Motion Pro Tygon clear on my Nortons for years.
1/4" clear tubing used with 5/16" Amal banjo fittings
And same 5/16" fittings on Golan filters.

This clear tubing does yellow after 4-6 months, I dont like the look, so I will change it out to please me.

MPTygonClear2.jpg


Plastic fuel filter (2016)
 
Last edited:
I see no reason why fuel rated black line should not be used. Mine state good to 50psi which of course is fine for our gravity feed carbs. No leaks, deterioration or rubber bits collecting in gauze screens.
 
I buy them from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-...921298?hash=item545f49be92:g:vZUAAOSwzH5bPNym

But they silly expensive compared to the normal stuff you can buy.

And, they're kinda heavy, so they need the lines zip tying to the frame or similar IMHO.

And, you already have the ones that Matt suppliers, and you have a refurbished and clean tank, so I'm kinda wonderin' why you'd need 'em...
Nigel
If I might annoy you, four questions about the Pingel filters:
1. The smallest they are available is 5/16" tails - does 1/4"ID hose fit on this? (probably silly question, I know!)
2. Not being transparent - how to you determine it's time to clean them? (the Pingel website doesn't give any advice - that I could find)
3. How do you clean them? (also BrianK's question - post #25 above)
4. Pingel site states "cleanable bronze element that will last a lifetime" - why do they sell spare elements then?
Thanks in advance :)
 
Last edited:
Nigel
If I might annoy you, four questions about the Pingel filters:
1. The smallest they are available is 5/16" tails - does 1/4"ID hose fit on this? (probably silly question, I know!)
2. Not being transparent - how to you determine it's time to clean them? (the Pingel website doesn't give any advice - that I could find)
3. How do you clean them? (also BrianK's question - post #25 above)
4. Pingel site states "cleanable bronze element that will last a lifetime" - why do they sell spare elements then?
Thanks in advance :)

Rob,

1. Yes I use 5/16 filter. I can’t be 100% sure but I believe I use 1/4 hose from tap to filter (because of the tap spigot size) and 8mm or 5/16 for the rest (because I prefer a bigger bore).

2. I tend to clean them once a year over winter.

3. I was hoping that someone would answer Brians questions with an informed answer to be honest! I swill them around in thinners and blow them out backward with the air line. I’d like to know if there’s a better way.

4. Maybe people lose or break the filter whilst cleaning ?!

I do think these filters are overkill. But I know from experience that Keihin carbs (and Mikuni) are far more sensitive to even tiny particles of debris in the fuel than Amal’s. Too much of my life seems to be spent pissing around with carbs as it is, at least these irradicate one factor !
 
Back
Top