Peel 130 tire clears 530 X-ring chain Yea!

Put on what looks too narrow 100/90x19 in one easy doing and it held air tubelessly.
Encouraged, put on 130 ex-race Avon on rear WM3 rim,
[Race Only- not D.O.T. approved]
5th time, was a half way charm, basically centered in rim this time as it had the 1st. Half bad news, new leaks found in RTV spokes and cracks in old tire. But front held so think I'm still prying on top of the RTV. Best news was to test fit 530 X-ring chain to see 'plenty' of clearance. I can always lace up WM4 rim to run 130 but not clear a wide chain w/o altering gearbox position. This I believe was gained by using a hub that allowed rim to center over it and in line with the frame spine, instead of off to the LH by ~3/8". Also wider RGM boxed swing arm air tank helped that area. I'll start out with 520 X-ring teeth, but I know they won't last much past initial run-in.

Was not expecting 130 to clear so had ordered 120 size, but it looks so narrow compared to prior dual purpose 120 Dunlop tractor tire and even more so compared to 130 AM23 race meat. More concerned with wear and heat mass than traction, but every little bit helps - until it starts to interfere.

In comparing the difference in width 100 front to 130 back, makes me wonder if the big tire advantage some report is it allows easier over powering of the front, in about the same way running lower air in front than rear helps settle handling.

Here's half way truthful photo, as leaning a bit to photo, but I verified by leveling tire to let gravity pull chain in its run path to see clear space. Now if 530 Xring can just cutting its own clearance in the inner cover and gear box, everything working out as dreamed it should. Sprocket position was determined by hanging frame-cradle-gearbox and axle from rafters so gravity pulled chain in line with drive loads. I use level to verify hanging plum bob straight down.



Also found place to mount electric wiring module to clear spine tube oil temp sender and rear tire and seat, so get to JBWeld another strut where no other Cdo even has structures to do so.

Ummmmmmm......

Hobot, your chain clears the tire with the rim laced up as you have it; HOWEVER, once you mount the wheel to the bike, does the chain align properly with the drive sprocket? I suppose you could successfully alter the left and right spacer thicknesses to MAKE it line up, but I'm betting it won't just "plug-n-play" as is...

Umm, yep, should work as expected now I Know chain clears tire by more than enough. Shoot the racers describe slicing off some tire edge to run 130's.
I did not just by guess and by golly the exact location of the wheel chain sprocket.

No sir I used time tested trial and error fitting method so the sprocket you see is already aligned and spaced for either 520 or 530 chain, depending on the sprockets I order up. Its on a GT750 Water Buffalo hub, but had to move sprocket inboard of how it was designed. The adapter plate is the most outboard surface that turns, not the sprocket. Very pleasing to pick up the mounted front wheel, one hand and twist it about. Rear mounted is about a wash over stock mass but maybe for tubeless part, which still doing time tested trial and error to seal spokes. Some redone leaks stayed sealed, others that once held now hiss, sheeze. To use up this old tire on break in, may have to run a tube or stop often to top off.

Respected Nortoneers tell me they have never seen a Commando whose rear rim was not centered to the spine-stem-front tire, but all I've seen have rim offset to the L by ~3/8". My down dirty mental calculations implied 130 would clear chain if rim was moved back to center, and in Peel's case it did.

Just a reminder, Steve. The tire you have is the 130/650 profile, which was designed for a WM-3 rim for use in vintage racing. I know from experience that it also works very well on a WM-4 rim, but it's not required. Avon also made the same tire in a 130/70 profile, with different sidewall properties to fit a modern wider rim, 3.0 inches if I recall properly, but I'd have to look it up to be sure. If you are already mounting the tire on a WM-3 rim, there's no reason to change to a wider rim.

Also, I always used a tube in this tire on the race bike, as did most of the other racers, and I still suggest you do the same, strictly for safety's sake.

Ken

Oh Ok picky little details. I think its mounted about as centered as possible, way better than prior 3 attempts - excepting the very 1st time perfect fit by the indicator line. It looks the business compared to 120 AM26 Roadryder, but only moderately more meat presented than the 120 Dunplop Trail Max cleated tire.

I know which tire I'd rather ride out going flat and that one is w/o a tube that rips it little stem out about the time I realize the wiggles ain't wind buffet.

What my real fear is - is de-rimming if tire not really truly fully bead centered seated. Besides removing any steering dampers, I've removed limiting fork stops and ain't looking back. A de-rimmed rear tire on Peel showed me what fork angle is required when rear is coming along side hip going hi way speed.
Gas tank moved back now to accommodate more fork range safety at speed.
My P!! had 3 rim locks, I need to really consider this on Peel's deal.