painting on chrome

Hi guys,
ive got a front and rear fender that have been bashed about, and the chrome has rust spots. Now, I want to paint these, after filling, but I don't know if just roughing up the chrome surface will be enough for an etch primer etc to stick.
If anyone has tried it with success I will be grateful if you could supply any details of the type of paint used etc.
I cant have them rechromed as there are too many dents in them.


Regards
chris r

Ugh, just being rusted to flaked off and scratched plus hand sanded best my interest allowed on a chain guard only last a season or so before you know by inspection its letting go but by few more season everyone will know at a glance. I have not searched how to go further but we know plenty gas tanks seems to get away with it, or just change colors and shades every few seasons like my buddy does his '69 Bonnie, as vibration seems to speed the yuk look again. I mean duh I don't know??? I'll listen in as chain guard is the one item have never convinced myself to buy new.

You don't say what bike you have, but I'm pretty sure my 75 has SS fenders, not chrome. I thought they were all SS.
Jaydee

I painted my rear mudguard with duplicolor metal specks and clear coat after a good sanding. Some of it was chromed and some not and it also had an appropriate amount of bondo on it. It's held up 3 years, but I didn't use it on the bike. I found another chromed guard I used.

What have you got to loose?

Dave
69S

Well I would start looking around and placing messages for chromed fenders. New ones are very expensive. This applys only to early model Commandos of course. Chromed type are narrower and look best but if improperly stored will of course rust ,and dings ? No solution really ,fill in and paint an option. :roll:

I painted my original chain guard after sandblasting it. Still looks good 6,000+ miles later.

You will need to sand with 60 grit and 120 grit and maybe 320 grit until it is completely dull with no shine or gloss. (use a mask!) Then you can use a two part epoxy primer (such as PPG DP50) This can have body filler applied over it (do not fill bare metal). You can then use a primer/filler if necessary or a direct basecoat/clearcoat such as Deltron.

Alternatively you can spray the prepped bare metal with a self-etching primer (PPG DPX170 or 171) and then with an acrylic urethane primer/surface (PPG K36). Do not use epoxy! Now you can use filler if necessary, finish with another coat of primer and then basecoat/clearcoat.

I have seen this done several times with great success. However, if the chrome is lifting/bubbling, rusting, you must make certain you have ground that chrome down to a clean surface. As always, preparation is the key.

+ 1 on sandblasting off the chrome
Remove the chrome by sandblasting put a self etching epoxy primer and paint with compatible top coats of desired color.
I did this on a Ducati that had the notoriously bad Italian chrome and it worked a treat. If you dont get the old chrome off it's a hit or miss whether the new paint will stick. Just not worth risking the need to redo it all over again.

Ray

Scooter62 said:

+ 1 on sandblasting off the chrome
Remove the chrome by sandblasting put a self etching epoxy primer and paint with compatible top coats of desired color.
I did this on a Ducati that had the notoriously bad Italian chrome and it worked a treat. If you dont get the old chrome off it's a hit or miss whether the new paint will stick. Just not worth risking the need to redo it all over again.

Ray

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+1.
If you leave the old chrome on, the rust will come through from underneath so you will have wasted all the effort. Get the fenders sand blasted first, take them to a local cooker manufactures /enamel coaters and ask a chap there if he will dip it in his acid tank to kill all the rust off before you attempt to paint it.

Ron L said:

You will need to sand with 60 grit and 120 grit and maybe 320 grit until it is completely dull with no shine or gloss.

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I would not use this coarse of sand paper unless really bad. Surface only needs to be "scored" enough to hold paint and filler. I would start at 180-220 grit. If rusted bad work those spots with coarser grit only to reduce prep time. Dents should be taken out as much as possible before filling. Prime with a good quality primer filler and sand with 320 to prep. Prime more if needed and sand. You can go finer on finish prep sanding if you want to but good two part epoxy paint applied properly will allow you to color sand and polish after clear coat.