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disquek said:
This is enough. Close this thread too please. This is going nowhere but a religious war. We’ve all made our points many times and apparently no matter how many times you make them, there are those who won’t read them or simply ignore them.
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johnm said:
Hi

I hope an administrator can take the good bits of this thread and give it a new name so we can search it in future. " Fettling the dampers ;-) "
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The two most intelligent statements in this whole thread. Now if we can just convince LAB to edit out the bad parts and call it "Lansdowne Dampers Fix"
 
I think this thread is missing one more thing.... I've been keeping up with the technical end of this thread and here's what I think.

1) The grub screw turns the adjuster

2) The grub screw joint has to withstand whatever needed force is required to turn the adjuster.

3) The fit of the adjuster to the fork tubes seems to vary where the adjuster is hard to turn, or as in LAB's video it turns easily.

Could the kit be simply improved by providing 3 thicknesses of O-ring for the adjuster to be able to tune the friction fit between the adjuster and fork tube? Certainly there would be an extra few steps in the process of installation where the customer test fits the adjuster with the different O-rings, but this way customers wouldn't assemble the dampers with too tight of a fit on the adjuster O-ring which could lead to the grub screw joint failure...

Does that make sense, or am I not seeing the big picture? Is my perception that the adjuster to fork tube fit is part of the reason customers apply too much pressure to the grub screw joint?...
 
worntorn said:
Why is there a need for swearing when we have Shakespeare?

Thou elvish-mark'd, abortive, rooting hog!

Or

Away, you starvelling, you elf-skin, you dried neat's-tongue, bull's-pizzle, you stock-fish! ..

BTW
Don supplied me with a brake rotor that warped about 4 thou and caused pulsation.
I told him about the problem but did not call him a " Dickhead" or a " Pissant"
He put a new rotor in the mail next day, no charge.
Problem solved, can't beat that.

Glen
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"Bull's-pizzle"....that's a keeper!

I had a faulty alloy wheel with an incorrectly spaced spoke hole from Don....one email to him offering to ship it back and/or provide images if needed and he had another at my door within 3 days, no charges/questions.
I also had a long, multi-day back & forth with Don about issues I had with a master cylinder setup after fitting his resleeve kit. He was beyond helpful to me finding the issue. Never any indication of frustration or poor service. I will not hesitate to order other items from him again.
 
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swooshdave said:
If you slice them up getting them out of the packaging and blame the packaging you have serious issues.
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Super Dave, like most people I am a genius 50% of the time but make up for that the rest.
I got a complete O-Ring package from the UK for my Sunbeam and decided to cut the end off the paper satchel with scissors........ I pull the card out and had cut the end off it (neatly I might add) including the largest O-Ring, it wouldn't have happened if I had cut the other end off.
 
o0norton0o said:
I think this thread is missing one more thing.... I've been keeping up with the technical end of this thread and here's what I think.
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The upper cap has an internal thread that stops under the upper shoulder (not that a bottoming or gun tap can thread to 0 that I recall)
By all accounts the solid rod has the same thread as the grub screw.

The grub screw via the top drilled hole is reverse threaded up until it tops out on the cap shoulder (but there is a chance there is a small unthreaded portion above that grub screw unless the tap had a flat end so could thread to 0 or the grub screws top chamfer takes care of that)

The rod is threaded up until it touches the under side of the grub screw and then some extra is added.

The grub screw is now stopped from backing out and from screwing in due to the rod top.
If it has Loctite involved that should guarantee no movement in either direction.

The brass cap is not that hard to turn, if it did turn freely it might do so in operation changing the damping adjustment at the needle.

Opinions are not allowed


Opinions are not allowed


Opinions are not allowed


Pretty simple really.
Prattle on, or just unscrew both, clean with acetone etc, Loctite if you must and reassemble making sure the grub screw tops out as does the rod.

Should you have to do that ? ... Whatever, you could just stare at it and wait for the pixies or just shrug and get it done.

It shouldn't even need Loctite to stay put.
 
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More importantly the postie had been.
Best price I could find in Australia.

Thanks GT.

Opinions are not allowed
 
I do have an opinion though.

Locking threads is BS when things can be mediated.

Any person has the option of hitting the back button.
 
Time Warp said:
View attachment 10789

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Pretty simple really.
Prattle on, or just unscrew both, clean with acetone etc, Loctite if you must and reassemble making sure the grub screw tops out as does the rod.

Should you have to do that ? ... Whatever, you could just stare at it and wait for the pixies or just shrug and get it done.

It shouldn't even need Loctite to stay put.
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Posted earlier.
Pretty simple really.
Prattle on, or just unscrew both, clean with acetone etc, Loctite if you must and reassemble making sure the grub screw tops out as does the rod.

Should you have to do that ? ... Whatever, you could just stare at it and wait for the pixies or just shrug and get it done.

It shouldn't even need Loctite to stay put.
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EDIT, added some hours after a great morning in the garage.

To add some balance to both sides.

The inserts are $500 Australian.
For that kind of money plus around $100 post ? I would be quite within my rights to want it to simply bolt up without any shenanigans, not everyone has a mechanical or hands on engineering occupation to fix things.

When 'Don started to see the communication was going pear shaped with the BUYER early in the piece, (based on sending 100's of these kits out) he could have simply bit his tongue and posted out a replacement, triple checked for tight $20 brass adjuster cap and new O-ring with the needle rod attached plus some post.

What kind of thread do you think old mate would have posted then ?
Just saying.
 
Time Warp said:
Posted earlier.


EDIT, added some hours after a great morning in the garage.

To add some balance to both sides.

The inserts are $500 Australian.
For that kind of money plus around $100 post ? I would be quite within my rights to want it to simply bolt up without any shenanigans, not everyone has a mechanical or hands on engineering occupation to fix things.

When 'Don started to see the communication was going pear shaped with the BUYER early in the piece, (based on sending 100's of these kits out) he could have simply bit his tongue and posted out a replacement, triple checked for tight $20 brass adjuster cap and new O-ring with the needle rod attached plus some post.

What kind of thread do you think old mate would have posted then ?
Just saying.
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He would have screwed up the second one and made twice as big of a stink.
 
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