Old Brits power arc ignition led

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Joe Schlaberdowski

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Got the power arc assembled. Hooked up following directions carefully. And no light out of the LED. now since I've never seen one of these before, I have assumed the LED referred to is the little green rectangle pointing at thebolt that holds the encoder disk fixed. If that's the LED, where do you start debugging. That is, what's most likely to have gone wrong?
 
From what i remember about fitting mine, the LED is on the black plastic housing that the encoder wheel runs through. The LED lights when the slot in the encoder wheel passes through the centre of the block. I am not sure but mine might be a mk1 so that may not be relevant.
 
Ive got to remove the coil block the battery power runs to. Already checked the white/blue wire from the Norton wiring harness. 12.5 volts. So that's ok. Next I've got to remove the coil bracket and check the power to the ignition.
 
I've checked the power to ignition module. Got power. Got ground. Both to the iginition module wires. Question is will the led light up with just power alone or is it dependent on the wires that go to the power curve (mild -- aggressive) and the gas selection switches?
 
@Joe Schlaberdowski hope this helps...

Old Brits power arc ignition led
 
Old Britts is among the "top 'o the heap" players in the customer service area. I'm sure Fred/Ella will be happy to help sort it out if you have no luck.
 
To gtiller.
I did not see a light on the side of the black plastic part over the disk. I just saw a little green plastic rectangle on the side close to the bolt. But your light seems to be on the opposite side. I'm at work now, but I'll check tonight. Thanx.
 
Well, the light WAS comming on! But the light on mine is under the plastic module that the serrated encoder disk rotates through. So, if I had a lift table I could have seen it. I suppose I could have used a mirror. But I didn't know it was down there. I was looking at the wrong thing. Anyway, it is hard holding that stainless serrated wheel from turning. Got to keep the light on. And I've got to keep an eye on the rod through the spark plug hole that I use to check if tightening the bolt is actually making it tighter OR just turning the cam at some point ( thus turning the crank and throwing it out of time again). I guess the question is, "how tight does that bolt have to be anyway?" Whew. I'm probably making this way harder than it is.
 
By the way, I had called Old Brits and they told me where to look. Didn't find it on my own sorry to say. They were very helpful. Starting the old beast is tomorrow.
 
Wish I'd had that clear of a picture before. Thanks. Mine is the same. How much trouble did you have tightening the encoder disc bolt? And, if yours is running right, how tight did you get it?
 
I needed a little bit of messing with the spacers/shims to get the encoder disc running in the centre of the slot, but really not too painful.

I was expecting it to slip and have to readjust on the slots on the optical pickup unit, but as it turned out, it didn’t move at all.

I did degrease the taper on the cam, as well as all the new bits in the electronic ignition kit with isopropyl alcohol as I didn’t want things too slippy.

I liked the fact that it’s timed at top dead center, and with an optical sensor, it’s a precise difference between LED on and off.

Very kind impressed to be honest - nice and easy!
 
The LED and the timing have been sorted out. Since it was so hard to get the timing disk slot right AND tightened, I went to the Power Arc web site as suggested by gtiller. A natural thing to do (that I was obviously unable to think of myself). The timing became easy then. Back the slot up so that whes tightened it was close. Loosen the ignition module and rotate (so easy to rotate the ignition module -- "so that's why the slots for the ignition module bolts are elongated!". How the obvious becomes obvious once someone points it out. And done. But then it wouldn't fire! No spark. LED works, but no spark at the plug. Fuse blown. I think when tightening down the coil block either the wire I trapped (yes, I Loosened it and moved the wire, but I didn't inspect the wire -- don't remember which it was, but I had tightened the hell out of the bolt) or the when I put the socket and extention up from below to tighten the coil bracket bolts, I didn't see what might be touching what and the mistake -- I think I left the key on. Hope it's just the fuse. Live and learn, but I seem to be "learning" far more than what's really necessary.
 
Hard to find the time to do what I like. Finally got back to the Norton. Replaced the blown fuse and -- nothin'. No spark. New fuse is safe and sound though. LED lights correctly. Anybody know what voltages I should get at various points in the coil block and the ignition module wiring harness?
 
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