OK, new battery, everything is dead

Status
Not open for further replies.
K

kustomizer

Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
52
Alright, I working On getting my MKIII running after 15 years and I put in a new battery and turned on the bike and it's completely dead. Just wondering if anyone can give me a few places that might be my problem to start checking. Kind of wondering if there are some area's that typically go that I should check. I will be attacking it with a meter and the schematic tomorrow, but thought I'd ask here first if there where some area's to start looking first.
 
Not to be condescending, but have you checked the battery and fuse? You only changed one thing. One variable makes it the first suspect.

Wait, it was running when you put it away, right?
 
Are you sure squirells or rats haven't chewed any of the wires :?: 15 YEARS since last started can have a bit of an effect on how things that used to work don't anymore. If you get frustrated after you attack the bike with a meter, don't escalate to atacking it with an axe :mrgreen:

Jean
 
Fuse

Loose connections

Corroded connections

Faulty keyswitch

...and 397 other possibilities...
 
kustomizer said:
Kind of wondering if there are some area's that typically go that I should check. I will be attacking it with a meter and the schematic tomorrow, but thought I'd ask here first if there where some area's to start looking first.
Click to expand...

No power when ignition is switched on?

Then logically, I would say the first check would be to find out if battery voltage is actually reaching the switch-or not (Ign.Sw./terminal 1= brown/blue wire) and if not, work backwards from the switch to the battery until you find the problem?
 
Ok, I posted this quick yesterday as I wanted to see if others had this issue and if there were any specific solutions others had found that I could check. I bought this from my friend and he said it ran when it was parked. I will start with the fuse and go from there. I know there could be a million things that could be wrong, so I guess I'll dive in with a meter and the schematic this afternoon. Thanks for helping out a Norton Newbie with all of my dumb questions.
 
They all say it ran when it was parked. If it died, but was able to coast off the road, that qualifies as running when parked.

Get the multitester out and DO NOT DO A CONTINUITY CHECK.
 
Well I was out working on the problem a bit today and have voltage to the brown/blue wire at the switch, but it seems nothing from there. Tomorrow I'll dig into that a little bit more and see if it's a bad ignition switch.
 
kustomizer said:
Well I was out working on the problem a bit today and have voltage to the brown/blue wire at the switch, but it seems nothing from there. Tomorrow I'll dig into that a little bit more and see if it's a bad ignition switch.
Click to expand...

A simple test would be to disconnect any or all of the other ignition switch wires = white, brown/green, blue/yellow, (noting their switch terminal positions) and temporarily connect them to brown/blue.
 
OK, let me ask this dumb question. Switch positions, now I might be wrong, but it looks as though there are 5 positions of the ignition switch (I'm going from memrory, which isn't very good) and I'm assuming straight up is off and then there are two positions to the left and two to the right, what are they for? Sorry, I know it's a dumb question, but it would help me to know what is supposed to happen in each switch position when I troubleshoot further.
 
kustomizer said:
Switch positions, now I might be wrong, but it looks as though there are 5 positions of the ignition switch (I'm going from memrory, which isn't very good) and I'm assuming straight up is off and then there are two positions to the left and two to the right, what are they for?
Click to expand...

Should be four positions?

Key turned left = Parking lights. (key can be removed)
Straight up = OFF.
One click right = Ignition ON
Two clicks right = Ignition with lights.

http://britmoto.com/manuals/Manuals/Riders_4.pdf - pdf page 10
 
There are normally 4 positions, looking face in at the key you have the key in a vertical position is off, a big turn anticlockwise gives parking lights no ignition, clockwise from the vertical gives ignition with no lights on 1st postion and ignition with lights 2nd position.
 
Actually, you can use the continuity tester, as long as you observe the resistance setting set to a very LOW range, and zero the meter before testing.

At the low setting, the slightest resistance due to corrosion or miniscule continuity should show up.

Still, it's easiest and best to use a test light (under $5 at an auto parts store), as long as you have battery voltage or connect a battery charger.

Start by grounding the tester clip, then test the battery negative terminal FIRST; light = keep going.

Next keyswitch input side, then output side

Next ignition box input or coil input

At that point, any issues will be through the coils, points, or electronic ignition unit.
 
grandpaul said:
Actually, you can use the continuity tester, as long as you observe the resistance setting set to a very LOW range, and zero the meter before testing.
Click to expand...

Yes, but not while there's voltage in the circuit, which I think was the point Diablouph was making, due to a recent misunderstanding?
 
I had a similar problem with my Triumph after it sat a spell. I had some but not all functions. I simply (with the battery disconnected) sprayed wd40 into the key slot and began to work the key back and forth. I repeated this process several times in between ale's and then sprayed in some electrical contact cleaner. The next day I re- attached the battery and all was well in the land of Lucas :D

Just a suggestion and best wishes with your project,

Tom
 
L.A.B. said:
grandpaul said:
Actually, you can use the continuity tester, as long as you observe the resistance setting set to a very LOW range, and zero the meter before testing.
Click to expand...

Yes, but not while there's voltage in the circuit, which I think was the point Diablouph was making, due to a recent misunderstanding?
Click to expand...

Quite right, although I believe Diablough was referring to issues with corrosion and few or only one wire strand remaining intact.
 
Great info everyone, it helps a ton, thanks. My day got away from me and I didn't get out to work on the bike, but will tomorrow. Hope to have this solved tomorrow, then it will be on to the next problem.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top