oil type

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MATTT

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Jan 5, 2010
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hi all
i know the handbook says 50 W oil but i can get multigrade much easier
i was wondering though which one to get ?
the local shop has 10 - 40 semi synth which i thought might be a little too thin
or 15 - 40 semi synthetic

or he can get me some 20 - 50 normal mineral, i use this in my old cars

just wondering what other people think b4 i buy some

thanks
matt
 
Matt,
I've read from some older publications and some vintage 1980's Norton Owners Club tech bulletins that
the general consensus was 40 wt straight shaken not stirred my good man 8)
If the engine has older components straight 40 is fine.
If you had a new rebuild w/ modern gaskets and internals Id say a red line synthetic 20-50 wt.
Using 40 wt for general riding and normal seasons 50-90 degrees on east coast has worked for me.
Marshal
 
Mattt

there have been a number of threads on this, and the important conclusions, IMHO, are
some oil is better than none
fresh oil is better than old
after that opinions vary, and they are all valid.
Personally I wouldn't go below a 20/50 weight if using a multigrade.
 
This topic causes me a lot of distress too. I think I'm going to go for the Redline 20/50 but crucially cross my fingers

Rob
 
some oil is better than none
fresh oil is better than old
after that opinions vary, and they are (generaly) all valid.
Personally I wouldn't go below a 20/50 weight if using a multigrade.

I agree
 
Redline also makes a 50w race formula in synthetic . I've used it for a couple of years. Seems to work great.
 
there was an article in classic racer where Bill Swallow compared 2 classic racing engines wich used different oils One used 100% synthetic the other Castor based R40 After one racing season they opened both engines only to find the one wich used synthetic was ready for an overhaul ,the other needed ....an oil-change .I too fell inthe trap of using superior synthetic only to find that it is not suitable for our type of engines I now use straight 40 (Denicol but that is a local brand)When coming back from the Isle of Man I discovered that I only had 0,5 liter (half a liter) left in my oiltank(oil in frame :not so easy to cheque)
All I had to replce were the shells(out of precaution)
So do not listen to that tecnical talk that synthetic is superior It only is for the engines it is designed for
 
I've always been suspect of the oil brand testimonials by users. Unless the engine is torn down, how would you know how it's fairing? Those that say they've used such and such oil and have had no problems does not tell me the efficacy of said brand. The only thing that is certain is they've not had a catastrophic failure, yet.
 
How Jim what better comparison than running 2 engines together over a longer period and than taking them apart to measure the wear
measuring is knowing ,that s what I ve been told
 
ntst8 said:
Mattt

there have been a number of threads on this, and the important conclusions, IMHO, are
some oil is better than none
fresh oil is better than old
after that opinions vary, and they are all valid.
Personally I wouldn't go below a 20/50 weight if using a multigrade.
Click to expand...

Sound advice here. There have been too many threads about this.
 
lynxnsu said:
How Jim what better comparison than running 2 engines together over a longer period and than taking them apart to measure the wear
measuring is knowing ,that s what I ve been told
Click to expand...


Lynxsu, I'm in complete agreement with you. What I was referring to in my earlier post was, if you haven't been inside you aren't going to know.
 
I use the absolute best I can find with good zink level high temp stability like Amzoil MCV or Redline and a few others. Zink is good for metal to metal contact like cam lobes and lifter. Kinda important in Norton. Expensive oils like these maybe a little overkill but when I pour it in, I sware I can hear an AHHH. Some people are afraid of leakage from syn oils but it appears I got a tight motor. I also don't mind going with a good 20/50 mineral and change it alot.
 
72 Commando
Combat Head w/compression plate at Base

Just curious what the "compression plate" did to the performance of your combat? Not something I wanted to do, but with the results of available gas these days, may not have a choice.

Thanks,
 
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