Oil pressure test gauge

kn0ck4times

kn0ck4times

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Jan 13, 2022
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Was wondering if anybody else had used a test gauge like this one? I don’t really understand how sufficient oil flow will reach the feed banjo. If anyone else has used one I would love to know how it went. There is only one hole in the banjo bolt side that is positioned right on edge of the gauge banjo. Then after the first smaller washer the rocker banjo but would only be feed by a small amount of oil passing by the washer .9mm. Dont want to risk not allowing sufficient oil flow to the head. Any help appreciated.
 

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Didn’t doubt the gauge would read fine but was worried the feed banjo would not get enough oil. The oil will have to pass by the copper washer and banjo housing to feed the line. The bolt is 7.2mm and washer and banjo are 8.1mm. Here’s a pic of how the hole lines up.
 

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kn0ck4times said:
Didn’t doubt the gauge would read fine but was worried the feed banjo would not get enough oil. The oil will have to pass by the copper washer and banjo housing to feed the line. The bolt is 7.2mm and washer and banjo are 8.1mm. Here’s a pic of how the hole lines up.
Click to expand...
I see better now.
File three notches in the I.D. Of the copper washer, leaving some of it to keep it centered.
A properly designed banjo bolt has the hole in the center of the fitting. (As you know)
 
Yeah not sure I’m even going to use it. Just seems designed poorly. Just wanted to see if others had tried similar gauges.
 
concours said:
A properly designed banjo bolt has the hole in the center of the fitting. (As you know)
Click to expand...

However, as there are two banjos on the bolt, that would require two holes.:)

concours said:
File three notches in the I.D. Of the copper washer, leaving some of it to keep it centered.
Click to expand...

Or maybe grind or file a flat (or flats) on the bolt (but not too deep)?

kn0ck4times said:
Yeah not sure I’m even going to use it. Just seems designed poorly. Just wanted to see if others had tried similar gauges.
Click to expand...


My RGM's test gauge bolt although slightly different (their latest bolt is the same as yours...
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

BANJO BOLT (LONG) FOR OIL PRESSURE TEST GAUGE 5/16" BSF

SCREWS ONTO NORTON CYLINDER HEADS TO ALLOW THE STANDARD ROCKER OIL FEED TO BE RETAINED WHILST ALLOWING OUR PRESSURE TEST GAUGE (PART NUMBER: OPTG) TO BE
www.rgmnorton.co.uk
...not the one in the test gauge pictures)...
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

OIL PRESSURE TEST GAUGE WITH PIPE & TAKE OFF FOR ROCKER OIL FEED

OPTG RGM NORTON
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

...the washer between the banjos (all three are the same) also fits fairly closely to the bolt but it works,...

Oil pressure test gauge
Oil pressure test gauge

...however, oil can flow along the thread. The rocker feed banjo with the old type bolt can also be positioned over the hole.
Oil pressure test gauge

It is intended for workshop use so the engine only needs to be running for short periods.
 
Have read in older threads some suggesting to run engine upto five minutes without rocker line connected at all to check for oil drainage in rockers and chasing down oil smoke out the exhaust.

So even if your setup limits some flow to head, you are only needing this fitted for a minute or two presumably? To alleviate fears of cam starvation, pop a rocker cover off and pour in some oil prior to/during pressure checking.
 
Decided to give it a quick try off of the left side rocker feed. Only ran for about 60 seconds but had 52lb at idle and with a little throttle maxed at about 70lb. Do those sound acceptable on cold startup?
 
kn0ck4times said:
Decided to give it a quick try off of the left side rocker feed. Only ran for about 60 seconds but had 52lb at idle and with a little throttle maxed at about 70lb. Do those sound acceptable on cold startup?
Click to expand...
Have heard others reporting similar values, though my 850 mkII with original pump, running an aftermarket handlebar-mounted pressure gauge off the right side rocker feed banjo, gets 45-50 psi on cold start up, fresh oil...and does not go higher on throttle blips. So either my pump is unable to provide more or the over-pressure valve is limiting more psi.
 
Tornado said:
...gets 45-50 psi on cold start up, fresh oil...and does not go higher on throttle blips. So either my pump is unable to provide more or the over-pressure valve is limiting more psi.
Click to expand...

Any shims in the OPRV?
You could try adding a shim (or two?) as that should increase the cold oil pressure.
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
 
L.A.B. said:
Any shims in the OPRV?
You could try adding a shim (or two?) as that should increase the cold oil pressure.
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
Click to expand...
Unknown shims on the OPV, have not taken it apart before.
Why is having more than 45-50 psi a desired thing for OPV limit? Once warmed up, psi seems to follow the 10 psi/1k RPM relationship fairly well. OPV should not play any role once warm running, right?
 
L.A.B. said:
I doubt that it is absolutely necessary (according to the factory manual, the OPRV is supposed to limit pressure to 45-55 psi).
Click to expand...
Sounds like I'm in the mix then. The only reason I can think of for wanting a higher max pressure....is for higher in the RPM range when you want ot stick with the 10 psi/1k rpm rule of thumb....so 50 at 5000, 60 at 6000, 70 at 7000 just before she blows up! But then of course you'd also be risking blowing out crank seals I'd think, which I believe is the whole point of OPV protection?
 
I'm using a SRM OPRV.
@ 70 degrees F, cold start-up I get around 55-60 psi. Drops and stays around 40 psi >2,500 rpm. Below 2,500 rpm it normally will not go below 30 psi when warm. 20 psi at idle, after a long run or traffic it may go to 15 psi @ 1,100 rpm.
 
Deets55 said:
I'm using a SRM OPRV.
@ 70 degrees F, cold start-up I get around 55-60 psi. Drops and stays around 40 psi >2,500 rpm. Below 2,500 rpm it normally will not go below 30 psi when warm. 20 psi at idle, after a long run or traffic it may go to 15 psi @ 1,100 rpm.
Click to expand...
Deets,
What is the advantage of an SRM valve?
Thanks,Mike
 
YING said:
Deets,
What is the advantage of an SRM valve?
Thanks,Mike
Click to expand...
After I rebuilt my motor and shimmed the original OPRV to the "shake till it rattles" instructions, I got almost 100 psi on cold start-up. I considered that way too much pressure. I did not feel like messing with the shims so I took the easy way out and bought the SRM valve.
IIRC, it's all stainless and machined to closer tolerances. This was in 2017 so a lot of water under the bridge since I researched it. Plus it came highly recommended by a couple of well respected Norton guru's.

Pete
 
YING said:
Deets,
What is the advantage of an SRM valve?
Thanks,Mike
Click to expand...
They are shiney! I have one, is it a better valve? I don't think so. I get the same figures as YING.

That is when using the exact same oil pressure test gauge that the OP is asking about, sourced from RGM.

The banjo fitting does leave a bit to be desired, and I almost always get a leak from it whilst testing.

But I mainly use the gauge on there for first start up of a freshly built engine, which will have Graphogen on the big end shells, cam and mains and a few other places.

I start on rollers, so I tend to run with the plugs out to get oil pressure, put the plugs in and start up.

I take the gauge off when I am happy it's all as it should be, then typically wipe the oil drips off the forward head bolt and out of the spark plug recess.

If I was running it for any longer, I would want some different fittings!
 
YING said:
Deets,
What is the advantage of an SRM valve?
Thanks,Mike
Click to expand...
Found this in an older thread (https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/oil-pressure-gauge-off-the-dial.27806/post-420686):

​
Onder said:
The relief valve may not be
able to dump enough oil fast enough when cold.​
Click to expand...

You are quite correct. The cracking pressure is where it "starts" to open up (flow on the va gauge). With cold oil, the higher the flow with higher RPMs, the OPV can not full keep up but does significantly moderate the over pressure. A OPV opening at 55-60 will run well over 70 psi at speed.
I however have noted the NEW SRM OPV have a different spring winding and regulated the over pressure much better than the original norton ones AND the OPV thread bypass leakage is much less.​
Click to expand...

So may be some benefits with regard to better operating pressure due to reduces leakage past the body threads....and this may also play a role in wet sumping situations (as COMNOZ stated in another thread).
 

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