Oil or grease clutch centre bearing?

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GraemeH

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Feel a bit silly for asking such a basic question... but does the bearing get oil splashed on from the chain, or should I pack it with grease before installing?

Oil or grease clutch centre bearing?
 
Your clutch basket will wobble a lot with a C3 higher internal clearance bearing, C2 with a tight internal clearance was fitted at the factory. When it wobbles like a C3 then its time to change, so it makes no sense fitting a new 'worn out' bearing.
 
GraemeH said:
Feel a bit silly for asking such a basic question... but does the bearing get oil splashed on from the chain, or should I pack it with grease before installing?

View attachment 122444
Click to expand...
There is some spash/drip from the chain, but I do grease them with light dino grease - not pack, just a nice coating. But then, I use dino oil in the primary. If you're using ATF or synthetic oil, then I wouldn't use grease - never sure if they mix OK.
 
I run a sealed bearing and have done so for over 35+ years with the same bearing as part of clutch maintenance I pull the bearing out every 20k miles pull one seal out clean the bearing and repack the bearing and put the seal back in, I only use between 5 to 7 floz of ATF oil in my primary, no need to add extra oil in there, only need to splash onto the chain.
So far running with a sealed bearing has out lasted the original unsealed bearing by a long shot.

Ashley
 
In the factory manual where it states "one dot" clearance. I think AN sells a standard (CN) bearing although they know the original was one dot/C2.
Oil or grease clutch centre bearing?

T

Thread 'Clutch hub bearing'

i have just stripped my MK3 primary to fit a new primary chain. whilst stripping the bike i noticed a bit of play in the clutch hub bearing. i know a 6007 C2 bearing should be fitted but i cannot find anyone who supplies a C2. would there be an issue fitting a std 6007 bearing??
 
Well that thread was an interesting read. But I have decided my takeaway is this quote from Gregg Marsh:
"IMHO any modern C2/CN/C3 6007 bearing will do the job"
so I'll get on with my clutch today and see how it shakes.
 
In the UK any good local bearing factor would stock or be able to quickly get a C2 6007. Bearing factors are the suppliers to the local factories but will have a front desk for cash sales in the UK. Pricing is keen and the parts genuine.

https://eriks.co.uk/en/ is an example.
 
GraemeH said:
Well that thread was an interesting read. But I have decided my takeaway is this quote from Gregg Marsh:
"IMHO any modern C2/CN/C3 6007 bearing will do the job"
so I'll get on with my clutch today and see how it shakes.
Click to expand...
Also, at some point I made the point that C2 and C3 from 50+ years ago had a specification range just as today and today's C3 range overlaps that range. C2 is very hard to find in most bearings today. A CN bearing is one that is not certified, generally is C3, and will also work. I use the FAG bearing that AN sells.

Also, the bearing is doing nothing most of the time. When you disengage the clutch (pull the lever) it is spinning and if it wobbles a little, who gives cares.

BTW, Triumph and BSA clutches use individual rollers rather than a beefy bearing and they have no trouble whatever.

So, those saying C2 is correct are not wrong but IMHO, need to be ignored.
 
marshg246 said:
Also, at some point I made the point that C2 and C3 from 50+ years ago had a specification range just as today and today's C3 range overlaps that range. C2 is very hard to find in most bearings today. A CN bearing is one that is not certified, generally is C3, and will also work. I use the FAG bearing that AN sells.

Also, the bearing is doing nothing most of the time. When you disengage the clutch (pull the lever) it is spinning and if it wobbles a little, who gives cares.

BTW, Triumph and BSA clutches use individual rollers rather than a beefy bearing and they have no trouble whatever.

So, those saying C2 is correct are not wrong but IMHO, need to be ignored.
Click to expand...
O.P., use the correct bearing. It is specified for a reason. To keep the clutch aligned.
This matters because when the clutch is not properly held in alignment, it orbits rather than spins concentric. Vibration can be felt through the entire bike, especially the footrests. This orbiting force wallows out the sleeve gear bushings and more.


(No problem if you're just performing a parade bike cosmetic restoration for profit, but if the bike will be ridden, proper mechanical procedures should be followed.)

Using the correct bearing is not my opinion, but rather, sound mechanical practices.
This is not a place to "cheap out".
 
concours said:
O.P., use the correct bearing. It is specified for a reason. To keep the clutch aligned.
This matters because when the clutch is not properly held in alignment, it orbits rather than spins concentric. Vibration can be felt through the entire bike, especially the footrests. This orbiting force wallows out the sleeve gear bushings and more.


(No problem if you're just performing a parade bike cosmetic restoration for profit, but if the bike will be ridden, proper mechanical procedures should be followed.)

Using the correct bearing is not my opinion, but rather, sound mechanical practices.
This is not a place to "cheap out".
Click to expand...
Do you reckon using c3 bearings could contribute to some people having belt drive problems?
the ones that sit there in gear I mean
 
baz said:
Do you reckon using c3 bearings could contribute to some people having belt drive problems?
the ones that sit there in gear I mean
Click to expand...

Could? Absolutely.
If a person can differentiate various vibration amplitudes & frequencies, it's easy to feel.

Certainly talking nuts & bolts can sometimes strike people as "calling their baby ugly", and belt drives are one of those sensitive areas.
 
Those telling the O.P. to use C2 should tell him and us all where to get one and while you're at it, make it a real, not knock-off bearing! The two places I can find are Schaeffler Medias (FAG) - unknown bearing, and Lily, a service to find bearings who isn't responding with one.

Timken sells 6007-2RS in CN on Amazon and PGN sells the 6007-2RS in C3 on Amazon (almost free).
 
marshg246 said:
Those telling the O.P. to use C2 should tell him and us all where to get one and while you're at it, make it a real, not knock-off bearing!
Click to expand...
www.123bearing.co.uk

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In my 14 years of Commando ownership I've replaced the clutch center bearing 3 or 4 times because I sourced them off the internet or through an auto parts store. Every time I got into the clutch I found way too much play in the cheap bearings for my liking. Last time I sourced from AN and its been good for 5 years and 15000 miles. Lesson learned.
 

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