oil level dropped a lot

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alan hodge said:
my main question was why 400 miles no drop in tank level after sitting and suddenly after last ride it happened......
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Leaving the engine at TDC helps reduce the flow as the head of oil is reduced, maybe the first few stops that happened and for some reason the last stop it did not.
 
My little girl doesn't misbehave much...Mostly it's me overlooking the needs of the machine.
I'm going full port manual ball valve & gauge. I've got very good memory for rituals & just don't want to deal with a solenoid valve in the system. Had too much grief from them tucked away in hydraulic systems in the past. They never fail until it's most inconvenient. You need to ensure you use a fail open if they are used.
 
ok I started bike and let it run for several minutes and cut it off and oil level was about 1/4" below 4 mark I will let it sit a few days (sans pincher) and see what happens this time I put pistons at TDC
 
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Now, wait!
Isn't there a thread about the AMR mod having a short shelf life, or some issue like that?
 
lazyeye6 said:
Now, wait!
Isn't there a thread about the AMR mod having a short shelf life, or some issue like that?
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Don't see how. The "mod" is just a ball & spring in the timing cover. Any increase in sumping is more likely the result of oil pump wear.
 
Haven't I heard all this many times before. Beating a dead horse story? But I'll have to say, I'd never put a ball and spring in the oil feed line, that's one place I wouldn't go!
 
alan hodge said:
ok I started bike and let it run for several minutes and cut it off and oil level was about 1/4" below 4 mark I will let it sit a few days (sans pincher) and see what happens this time I put pistons at TDC
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How does one determine that the pistons are at TDC after shutting down?
 
ok I just went to garage and checked oil level has not dropped even 1mm in 2 days I had kicked bike over slowly til felt compression coming up after I shut it off monday
 
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maylar said:
How does one determine that the pistons are at TDC after shutting down?
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Wait until engine stops and then gently move the kickstarter until resistance is felt, then push a bit harder and let the compression slowly escape, just before TDC the resistance will ebb away, stop at this point.
 
DogT said:
Haven't I heard all this many times before. Beating a dead horse story? But I'll have to say, I'd never put a ball and spring in the oil feed line, that's one place I wouldn't go!
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In the AMR mod, the ball and spring are in the discharge side of the oil pump, not the oil feed line. Pump pressure forces the ball off the O ring seal.

I would not put a ball and spring (the automatic anti sump valves) in the oil feed line either.

Slick
 
lazyeye6 said:
Now, wait!
Isn't there a thread about the AMR mod having a short shelf life, or some issue like that?
Click to expand...

acadian said:
Don't see how. The "mod" is just a ball & spring in the timing cover. Any increase in sumping is more likely the result of oil pump wear.
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There is also the O ring (size 202) supplied by AMR. I suspect it is nitrile compound having a temperature range -40 to 125 deg C. Oil temp. may approach the upper limit, and if the O ring is over shimmed, might cause if to deform and the ball may not seat properly.

A viton O ring compound has a higher upper temp limit = 225 C.

So far, my mod is doing well, although I have less than 100 break in miles on the bike.

Slick
 
checked oil level just now has not dropped one iota in 4 days whatever was 'wrong' 'fixed itself' for now (jinx, jinx, jinx) maybe putting pistons at TDC was the trick will try it again next ride.
 
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