Oil Filter Installation and Mod

swooshdave · Mar 18, 2010

So I hope I got this in right. Hoses in from the top?

I was digging though some stuff and found something interesting.

What I seem to remember is that you tap this threaded thing and then you can use "standard" oil filters. Now I have no idea how you actually do this. I think it might take a lathe?

It may have been in the INOA Tech Digest at one point. Has anyone done this?

tpeever · Mar 18, 2010

The adaptor should just screw over the exiting threads no? I think that's the way mine works but was already on the bike when I bought it. Makes it much easier to find filters!!

bpatton · Mar 18, 2010

The internal and external threads need to be in sync. I got a Timesert years ago. The rep on the phone was English and sent me the appropriate one, for free!

acadian · Mar 19, 2010

My question is, how much torque do you put on the bloody filter? Last season, using a filter wrench (handled kind) I put enough behind it so that it felt solid enough without going so far as to wreck the threads... the thing still leaked so I ended up putting a good amount of my body weight behind it, it finally sealed up properly. And this is on a new filter mount mind you...

Keith1069 · Mar 19, 2010

Usual advice is just compressing the seal then 1/2 turn more with oil on the seal face. Don't forget the hose clip after you've tightened the filter to where it seals OK.

tpeever · Mar 19, 2010

acadian said:
My question is, how much torque do you put on the bloody filter? Last season, using a filter wrench (handled kind) I put enough behind it so that it felt solid enough without going so far as to wreck the threads... the thing still leaked so I ended up putting a good amount of my body weight behind it, it finally sealed up properly. And this is on a new filter mount mind you...

Shouldn't need much to make it seal. I wonder if the face of the head that the filter screws onto is warped? I guess another possibility could be damage to the threads making it feel like it's snugging up before the rubber seal is getting compressed.

L.A.B. · Mar 19, 2010

Quoted from the factory manual (Section K5 -Routine Maintenance):

"Moisten the new sealing ring with oil and install the new filter hand tight only."

And if the filter needs to be tightened more than that to stop it leaking, there's a problem?

swooshdave · Mar 19, 2010

L.A.B. said:
Quoted from the factory manual (Section K5 -Routine Maintenance):

"Moisten the new sealing ring with oil and install the new filter hand tight only."

And if the filter needs to be tightened more than that to stop it leaking, there's a problem?

On every filter I install I make sure to get a thin film of oil on BOTH sides of the sealing ring. Then tighten until it touches the base. Then 1/2-3/4 turn after that.

rvich · Mar 19, 2010

Maybe you should just find a filter that you can use the tap on, then spin it on to the original threads!

Dyno Dave gives a list of filters that have the 16mm thread.

http://atlanticgreen.com/oilfilter.htm

BrianK · Mar 19, 2010

Tighten by hand only. They tighten themselves thereafter - I can never get one OFF by hand.

pete.v · Mar 19, 2010

removed

JimC · Mar 19, 2010

Why mess around with an adapter? Here's a bunch of filters with 16 x 1.5 mm threads. I've found the Baldwin is 1/2" longer than most of the others. More media and oil capacity.

swooshdave · Mar 19, 2010

I think what it was is that "back in the day" it wasn't so easy to find the right filters.

I'm not going to do it, just wanted to see if it jogged any old memories.

Oil Filter Installation and Mod

swooshdave

tpeever

bpatton

acadian

Keith1069

tpeever

L.A.B.

Moderator

swooshdave

rvich

BrianK

pete.v

JimC

swooshdave

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