Oil Feed to Head: Nylon or Steel?

can I get a show of hands?

the steel oil line lasts a lifetime, can't burst or crack with age and fatigue that I can tell, and costs a lot more

I had a nylon line split and puke oil way back when and switched to steel braided line long ago

have a friend who needs a new oil feed to head

what's the story nowadays?

the nylon lines much improved from the old days?

Bought and fitted a new nylon line then the very next day Walridge had a sale on braided stainless so ordered and fit a week later. C'est la vie. Had one split at the headjoint years back spraying oil all over my girlfriend's new jumpsuit. Man was she pseisd. A Norton head can go one hlleofa long time without lubrication of any sort. Home-made truck air brake line an option for those on a retro-budget.

Nylon 11 or air brake hose, if you like colours. Couple bucks for 5' of it. Beat the fittings on with a rubber/hyde mallet or a block of 2x4, do not heat it. I did have one leak, I cut off 1/2", refitted and leak stopped. But if you want bling, go for stainless, fine. Inside Diameter: 0.170 In., 11/64 Outside Diameter: 1/4 Wall Thickness: 0.040 In.

I like the original black look, but then I'm pretty traditional on the look of my bike.

Dave
69S

I had one side pissing oil when i finally got it running. I replaced them with a direct replacement nylon/plastic type. Same issue. I think the banjos were not properly installed on the set I bought. Sprung for the steel lines and had no more problems. I thing a good set of plastic would have done the trick but I also like the look of the steel.

I am using VW fuel injection line. It is rubber with a woven cloth cover.



I seized the end with fine monel wire to keep it in place and covered it with shrink tube to clean up the look. It is on its third season.

Russ

rvich said:

I am using VW fuel injection line. It is rubber with a woven cloth cover.

I seized the end with fine monel wire to keep it in place and covered it with shrink tube to clean up the look. It is on its third season.

Russ

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Scary. What is that rated at? Both pressure and heat? Chances of me running a rubber anything for that oil line is nil.

Scary. What is that rated at? Both pressure and heat? Chances of me running a rubber anything for that oil line is nil.

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I wondered about that. I don't know much about the different specs but my stock lines look like crap and move around. As soon as I save a little more money, I'm getting the steel ones.

Fuel injection hose is tough stuff, built to take 100+ psi and the heat above an automotive intake or even exhaust manifold . . . . sitting in the breeze above a Norton head, running what? 30 - 80 psi max? piece of cake.

Braided stainless will abraid anything it touches, especially wiring, cover it with shrink wrap or something else before assembly.

xbacksideslider said:

Fuel injection hose is tough stuff, built to take 100+ psi and the heat above an automotive intake or even exhaust manifold . . . . sitting in the breeze above a Norton head, running what? 30 - 80 psi max? piece of cake.

Braided stainless will abraid anything it touches, especially wiring, cover it with shrink wrap or something else before assembly.

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Heat from the outside is not the same as 300˚ oil inside. Fuel does not get hot so the rubber may not be rated for oil temps.

I wouldn't use a steel line, even if you can find one. I had one and it didn't last 5K miles.

Dave
69S

1up
I use both steel and OEM setup. The biggest thing to watch out for is that it is not chaffing or rubbing against anything and if its running close to other parts I put small rubber protectors around the piping...e.g. between the carburetors. both work and as the previous poster said I liked the bling. 8)
CNN

I wouldn't use a steel line, even if you can find one. I had one and it didn't last 5K miles.

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I have owned seven Commandos, all that I replaced the nylon with braided steel oil lines

32 years later, not one "failure" of any kind of all seven bikes

Everyone I have spoken with agrees that the nylon ones are quite prone to age related cracking and weakening

versus the steel lines, which are damn near indestructable

I wouldn't use a steel line, even if you can find one. I had one and it didn't last 5K miles.

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What failed?

I still have my orginal ones on after 36 years they are still OK so far and my bike has done over 120,000 miles, but I do keep a eye on them the same as any maintenance on the Norton, but do like the braided ones for looks, when I do replace them I will go braided but depends if I got the money when that happens, my thinking is why replace when not broken.

Ashley

My steel line cracked and started leaking around one of the solder joints around 5K miles. Not a total failure, but a mess. Got the nylon replacement probably back in 74 or so and it still was functioning in 03, but it was very brittle, so I replaced it. I bought 25' of Nylon 11 from McMaster, so have plenty left. I made up a set for another fella with his banjos. I can't complain for a few bucks and it looks fine to me. The only place it rubs is on the return line, so I put a black tie wrap on it there. Nothing else hits. The original steel line was attached at the manifold with a metal bracket as I remember.

I suppose if you want the concourse look for a 69/70 steel is the way to go.

But I'm sure people will do what they want, I did, and like others never had a problem with the nylon except I didn't get one on right, it dripped and I replaced it right away. I just cut off about a half inch and re seated the banjo. I suppose the banjo didn't go in right from the get go.

Dave
69S

my thinking is why replace when not broken.

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Well, this is one I would REALLY like to avoid if at all possible.

Electronics = Inconvienance and maybe embarrassment
Oil line = 350 degree oil on leg + the above


DogT, how do you fix the Nylon 11 line to the fitting?

Of course if you have the old banjos, remove them from your old nylon line. I used a box cutter with a new blade. Cut the lengths you need, you can just place the line in position and figure that. Make nice cuts on the ends perpendicular to the tube. If you have a tube flaring tool,



grab the line just past where the banjo will go into it, you don't want much past or it may bend. Hold the flaring tool against something stable. If you don't have the tool, cut a block of wood with a 1/4" hole drilled in it or larger in half through the hole and put it in a vice. You can't hold the line by hand and get the banjo in, at least I've never been able to hold it. Maybe you have gorilla grip? Put some oil or silicone lube in the line, and on the fitting, place it in the tubing as much as you can, and give the banjo a whack with a rubber/hide mallet, or even just a block of 2x4. Don't heat the line, it will melt and that's that. Make a couple of practice hits and after about 3 times, you'll figure it out, hit it as straight on as possible.

I'd send you the line, but you can usually get it locally as air brake line, or order it. I think I gave the dimensions above. I got mine from McMaster, I think I had to buy 25' and it didn't cost much, maybe $10.

I'm happy with the results, being a Luddite and a cheapie as well.

Dave
69S

Well after 36 years on the bike they have never leaked and still don't so I can't see the reason to replace the line, and if they did show signs of failing I would replace them straight away, my mate had to buy the lines for his poject Norton and only cost him $25 already made up with new banjo's from BJ's in Brissy, comparded to over $120 for the braided lines.

Ashley

ashman said:

Well after 36 years on the bike they have never leaked and still don't so I can't see the reason to replace the line, and if they did show signs of failing I would replace them straight away, my mate had to buy the lines for his poject Norton and only cost him $25 already made up with new banjo's from BJ's in Brissy, comparded to over $120 for the braided lines.

Ashley

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The old ones I had shattered like glass when I touched them while working the carbs. .02

steel. had mine split years ago on the road. nightmare and they are 35 plus years old.
just do it.
dr b