Now going custom with alloy bodywork!!

pvisseriii said:

What does the scale read when you get on? What sort of body work in the personal regards are you doing? 20 pound ago I could get on plane windsurfing in a 12 knot wind. Now it take 18 to 20 knots with the same sail.
Top end will be wind resistance, quickness will be weight reduction. What is your primary goal in this respect, other than lightening the bike of course. Are you concidering a fairing for the full circle affect.

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I got a great idea. :idea:
Take that original black 72-74-swing arm. Bring it to a powder coater and ask him to paint it silver (as close to aluminum in color)...Stick it on your bike and no one would know the difference. Use the above recommendations to loose the 3 lbs of weight.
CNN

I don't need to go to a powdercoater, I do it myself already and have aluminum power in stock. I'll just coat all my parts and recalibrate the scale. That will show them.

I really don't care about all the negative. Unless that person has actually done it and failed and has proof it dosn't matter. Opinions are great.

CanukNortonNut said:

pvisseriii said:

What does the scale read when you get on? What sort of body work in the personal regards are you doing? 20 pound ago I could get on plane windsurfing in a 12 knot wind. Now it take 18 to 20 knots with the same sail.
Top end will be wind resistance, quickness will be weight reduction. What is your primary goal in this respect, other than lightening the bike of course. Are you concidering a fairing for the full circle affect.

Click to expand...

I got a great idea. :idea:
Take that original black 72-74-swing arm. Bring it to a powder coater and ask him to paint it silver (as close to aluminum in color)...Stick it on your bike and no one would know the difference. Use the above recommendations to loose the 3 lbs of weight.
CNN

Click to expand...

I sense your frustration but your statement above really trivializes things. As I see it, the subject aluminum swing arm is a potential man killer - there, I said it in plain and simple english. I really can't just sit back without saying something.

I do remember a member doing an N 15 . it went on for 15 months and the LAST post was having to remove the engine for the third time than it just went away. oh well so much for that professional mechanic's ability and failure to accept constructive criticism.

="mikegray660"]Bill your becoming such a good guy- rule follower - next you'll be singing the praises of monoshockers! :shock: :roll:

( PS i'm do'in the same 2 cents worth thing too as somethings obviously fall on deaf ears anyways!)

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[/quote]

welcome to the BAD BOY club :mrgreen: some people REFUSE to learn.

Dances with Shrapnel said:

I sense your frustration but your statement above really trivializes things. As I see it, the subject aluminum swing arm is a potential man killer - there, I said it in plain and simple english. I really can't just sit back without saying something.

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mikegray660 said:

Bill your becoming such a good guy- rule follower - next you'll be singing the praises of monoshockers! :shock: :roll:

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WHOOOOO there mister. You are on thin ice, young man. You better watch out or mister thin-skin will turn you in.

I used to get a little raw once in a while. I'm bored!

CanukNortonNut said:

Take that original black 72-74-swing arm. Bring it to a powder coater and ask him to paint it silver (as close to aluminum in color)...Stick it on your bike and no one would know the difference. Use the above recommendations to loose the 3 lbs of weight.
CNN

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haha - i think i just pissed - oh sorry - micturated myself - haha

bwolfie said:

I really don't care about all the negative. Unless that person has actually done it and failed and has proof it dosn't matter. Opinions are great.

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Well then, what comes to mind:

Farewell and adieu to you fine Spanish ladies,
Farwell and adieu all you ladies of Spain;
For we've received orders to sail for old England;
And perhaps we shall never more see you again.

Just be careful with it. Honest advice and apologies if I came across negative.

Dances with Shrapnel said:

bwolfie said:

I really don't care about all the negative. Unless that person has actually done it and failed and has proof it dosn't matter. Opinions are great.

Click to expand...

Well then, what comes to mind:

Farewell and adieu to you fine Spanish ladies,
Farwell and adieu all you ladies of Spain;
For we've received orders to sail for old England;
And perhaps we shall never more see you again.

Just be careful with it. Honest advice and apologies if I came across negative.

Click to expand...

Amen

If you really want to go with aluminum then there are plenty of swingarms out there you could use for a graft. They were designed with the strengths and weaknesses if aluminum in mind. You might have to go with a new the rear wheel to convert to a disc and do some serious surgery at the spindle to make a go of it but it would probably suit what you're after.

Brent,

don't let the negative comments keep you from posting your progress. I think they are all well-intentioned, and they might be right. Then again, maybe not. You'll find out eventually. In the meantime, I'm sure I'm not the only one who enjoys following the project, whether we'd do it the same way or not.

I had a steel Commando swingarm break through the axle slot at speed without a crash some years ago, but it was probably my fault for opening up the slot too much for a larger axle.

Ken

The m unit looks to be a great item. I was about ready to send my Signal Dynamics module back until I thought it thru.

Because Im wiring up the complete bike from scratch, the m unit is a couple a spaces short for the job. If it had ten circuits on the out side, it would replace both the signal module and the fuse box.
I think the self cancelling feature of the Signal Dynamics unit is preferable to the m unit tho.
The m unit is set for 20seconds of flash then auto off, but is adjustable, but would always give you just the one choice for signal on time.

The Signal Dynamics unit gives you three choices for flash time- hold the momentary signal button for one second and you get 8 flashes, ideal for lane chanes. Hold the button for two seconds and you get 20 flashes, ideal for turning a corner withou stopping.
Hold the button for three seconds and you get 60 flashes, this is for waiting at a red light.
Additionally, press both turn buttons at the same time and you get 4 way flashing of the signals until you hold the buutons down again.
Also, the auto cancel feature of the unit is delayed as long as the brake is on. This is handy if you happen to get stopped at a very long light.
I think self cancelling turn signals are potential life savers.
Twice now I have ridden thru an intersection and nearly ended up under an oncoming left turning vehicle, all because I inadvertently had my left turn signal still on from the last turn.
I have the Signal dynamics self cancelling module on one of the Vincents and it has worked like a treat.
Glen

The

Slack adjusters, axle tabs and interface between the axle tabs and round section would be my concern or areas to keep a close eye on. Keep up the posts as we all learn from your build.

Even the factory steel swing arm should have some gizmo to keep the axle
in line, ie: from shifting backards on RH side if its slot breaks or the dumb ass-axle does. Chain holds the LH side forward. An ideal builder would test to destruction a new material construction before install to know what to expect. I'm not that so would take my calculated chances with some back up provision above. The fact that many have broken axles and slots w/o crashing implies that tire alignments are an over sold concern but maybe for uneven tire wear. The real issue of Al swing arm is the Al fatigue fear factor, unless over built like Z plates and rods.
Going by my own experience it takes about 8 lb off stock Cdo to be distinctly if only slighted noticed. That's a center stand or oil tank-1/2 gt oil, or one half of exhaust side difference. 12-14 lb brings on a bit of a grin notice. Double that for some definte whites of teeth and eyes cooling exposure to faster breeze onset.

Started staring st the seat pan. I made a break thru and figured out what I want to do. It was so simple and I think it will fit in well plus provide a place to bury the battery. Pictures to follow once I start bending metal.

Kwel Brent I like that just staring at it engineering insights myself. In my seat case I realized there a huge area to drill out thumb size hole for ~3.46 oz more off.
Maybe more if battery stuck in hole up where the sun don't shine. Nice to have your shiny parts to flash on in mind now and then, even long distance. Have ya decided on frame tube finish? Silvery fish scales would be cool.

Here is what I came up with for the Glenli. The rear tire is quite wide as is the solo seat as is my a$$ so I had to make the rear cowl 12" wide. This leaves a good space for the electrics.
I made the cowl with a piece of 3/16 al as a base. Was going to use a piece of 1/8' for the electrical mount plate, but realized .063 will suffice (weight). Was going to bolt the electrical plate to the seat base but realized the studs for the seat mount have to run thru both plates anyhow so a nut with built in washer can be set at the right height on the stud such that everything comes up tight once the seat is clamped down with wing nuts on the bottom. I think the pictures can explain it better.

Here is the .063 electrical plate with most of the items mounted. Still waiting for the Signal Dynamics Run/Brake Turn self cancel module and a couple of other small items.




I turned and threaded some little aluminum weld ons for mounting things to the plate







the electrical plate slide into the cowl. There is a little clip on the seat /cowl base right at the back, the back end of the electrical plate gets located and held down by that. At the front of the electrical plate, the two seat studs go thru the holes in the electrical plate and the seat/cowl base and a little SS mounting bar on the frame. The whole thing gets pulled up tight by wing nuts on the bottom. Not shown here are a couple of self locking nuts which will be threaded onto the seat studs such that they will pull the electrical plate down tight onto the seat base when the wing nuts get tightened.

The seat front attachment is a tongue which slides into a fixed block of al on the seat /cowlbase

Nice. I see you have the "big" battery. I went with the 4 cell 8ah version. Plenty for a kickstart and LED bike.

The litium ion batteries are amazing aren't they? This one weighs 2.5 lbs , I imagine your weighs about a pound or so.

I'm planning on using an Estart with the 1360 motor. The motor will be at 10.5 to one so I thought the big battery was a prudent choice. This one has 410 ? CCA , about the same as the 18 lb battery in my Mazda car!

Glen

Very enlivening to view your welds and construction invention details Brent. I'm waiting to see how the rear tire fender sling sheeting is fitted as I've got to figure that out on Peel yet. Got front area figured/made but not the top middle section tire could enter on landings. I'll only need the small Li battery on Peel to start.