Norvil f/glass fuel tank

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Hi All, I have to replace my fuel tank as it has started leaking again(caswell sealed 6 months ago, followed instructions to the letter) I willgofor polished alloy this time, any suggestions/recommendations gratefully received(uk suppliers only please) wish I'd put the caswell money to a new tank!
Thanks in advance, Paul.
 
I will go for polished alloy this time; wish I'd put the caswell money to a new tank!

I think that is the smart thing to do. I read of too many tank lining failures here. I like the idea of once and done. Don't get me wrong, I've had my share of do overs, just not the tank. I opted for an aluminum one off the bat. It's not suitable for polishing though. It was under $400 and needed some caressing before painting. It doesn't leak, no matter what the fuel.
 
From what I have read so far, all materials are likely to be affected by these shitty fuels, putting ethanol in gas should be outlawed. The key point in being subjected to a problem is time, early fiberglass is the one affected the quickest, the others (steel, aluminum...) later on. Not a good situation if the vehicule is to be kept a long time but fine if you want to sell new vehicules and scrap the old ones. Planned obscelesence at its finest.

Jean
 
Jean,

I live in Florida where there are boats, boats and more boats. Many have aluminum tanks running 10% ethanol fuel. Never have I heard of a leak caused by ethanol in these aluminum tanks. Maybe it's only a matter of time.
 
It's funny that before ethanol, fiberglass fuel tanks were THE BEST fuel tanks for marine use and only the relatively expensive boats used them - Hatteras, etc. They was no lifespan limitation associated with them at all. Now, folks with these tanks - which were normally glassed in as part of the boat's structure - have to spend big bucks to replace them with AL tanks which have a relatively limited life in comparison. Luckily - so far - there is no ethanol in diesel and the FG tanks in that application are still "the best there is."

Allegedly, in Hatteras boats made after the late 80's, the FG tanks are fine with gasoline due to a different resin formulation. IF this is true, one would wonder why a currently made bike FG tank can't be just fine as well. My FG fastback tank is OK so far, having been Caswelled before I ever put any gas in it but whether it will stay that way, who knows. Luckily there is still no ethanol that I know of in Mexico gas so maybe (fingers crossed) it will never be an issue since I don't expect it will ever leave Mexico.
 
What limits the life span of an aluminum motorcycle tank? I understand the problems with boats and saltwater.
 
Those T. A. Baker tanks at £215 = $338 US, if I've done the conversion right. That's a steal. I paid more than that for mine from Waldridge that is not suitable for polishing. In fact, it took a fair amount of filler to get it correct.
 
They look pretty nice - I didn't know about them when I bought my FG Fastbank tank in the UK from BurtonBikebits or I would have looked into them. Their fastback tank doesn't look quite right to me at the rear portion but that might just be the angle of the pic.
 
JimC said:
Jean,

I live in Florida where there are boats, boats and more boats. Many have aluminum tanks running 10% ethanol fuel. Never have I heard of a leak caused by ethanol in these aluminum tanks. Maybe it's only a matter of time.

As I said, time... (see http://www.iboats.com/basics/ethanol_fuels.html) they even reccomend going to plastic tanks for boats not knowing what will be the long term effects of ethanol on the plastic used. Time tested is gas without ethanol on any material, THAT has been proven to work, corn should be eaten, not used as fuel.

Jean
 
Jean,

Aren't the aluminum boat tank warnings mostly concerning outside effects that a motorcycle tank would not be exposed to? Is there any problem with ethanol affecting the aluminum?
 
The main problem with ethanol and metal tanks (steel and aluminum) is that it is hygroscopic which means it mixes well with water, just picture scotch and water. Any moisture in the air will be drawn to the ethanol, and mix with it. So far, that is OK, we even use gas line anti freeze which is wood alcohol to remove the water that can creep in the gas lines and get it to burn with the gas. All good up to now, the bad thing is after a while, the ethanol and the water can separate, the water being heavier will sink to the bottom and start doing its thing, which is called corrosion, to the metal (yes, even aluminum corrodes otherwise it would stay shiny and chrome would be a thing of the past). On a bike used on a regular basis, the movement will keep all the coumpounds well mixed, but if it sits for a long time, then there is a chance for corrosion to occur. Steel, aluminum or ethanol resistant plastics will hold up for a long time, but it would be foolish to think that any tank material is immune from ethanol.

Corn is for tacos, not fuel :!:

Jean

http://fuelschool.blogspot.com/2009/02/ ... ended.html
 
Jean,

Which tank would you prefer, if you had to replace a crash damaged Roadster tank. Steel, aluminum, fiberglass or one of the gee whiz plastics? I don't even know if there are any plastic tanks available in the Roadster style.

When I replaced my glass Roadster tank, which had not yet developed a leak, but the experiences of others here with lining tanks prompted me to replace it, I chose aluminum over the other materials. I'm not familiar with the plastics. That left steel and aluminum. I was aware of the rusting problems with steel and I wanted to stay away from coating of any kind. I'll admit, I kind of assumed aluminum was impervious to ethanol. From what research I've done, it seems the problems with the aluminum motorcycle tanks are pretty much negated by frequent riding or if not riding, draining the tank. I sometimes do wish I had a steel tank so I could use my Marsee magnetic tank bag.
 
Steel is attractive for the very reason you gave, attaching a magnetic tank bag, for the long term, I think it would last as long as an aluminum tank and be less prone to cracks from vibrations. For the home builder of specials, fiberglass is the easiest to "sculpt" and with vynil ester or epoxy resin can be made ethanol proof. A good sealer (not POR15) is also a good insurance on glass tanks. If I can get something to last 20 years, I will be happy, if I can still ride in 20 years, I will be even happier because I will be past 80 :mrgreen:

Jean
 
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