Norton p11 oil tank

I have a matchless g15 CS and want to know if the Norton P11 oil tank will go in the Matchless Frame with out too much modification ?
The P11 tank looks to be a bigger capacity and has a different mounting set up. I hope to run twin high exhaust pipes on the LH Side like the N Commando Highriser model so won't use the Matchless oval shaped tool box

Thank you Steve

The two tanks are about the same capacity. The P11 tank wraps around the rear tire, so is much smaller in capacity than you would think

The P11 tank will probably fit in the G15 frame, but you'll have to make a crosspiece under the seat to hang the tank, and may need to notch the front of the tank to clear the downtube. Also, the battery would need to be relocated.

I've seen the G15/N15 with high pipes, and the stock oil tank works.

On the subject of the P11 oil tank:
Are there suppose to be rubber grommets going into the frame braces for the oil tank clamps? These holes have an extremely large tolerance for the 5/16 bolts that go through from the "A" and "B" plates. Does anyone know what goes there? I have the rubber pieces that are cut axially that cushions the holding rods at the two clamping points for the oil tank support but I am not sure if I am still missing some other bits. I would appreciate it if someone would enlighten me.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

From your description I assume you are mounting the steel tank? (Alloy tank mounts differently).

According to the factory bulletin supplied with replacement steel tanks, the top mounting consists of P/N 034114 split rubber isolator, P/N 03411 top mount bolt plate, P/N 034104 Top mount plate "B", P/N 034105 Top mount plate "A", (2) P/N 042272 large clamping bracket washers, and (2) P/N 022083 nuts.

The front mount consists of P/N 034115 split rubber isolator, P/N 034127 bracket with studs, P/N 034106 bracket with holes, (2) P/N 042272 large clamping bracket washers, and (2) P/N 034129 nuts.

The thick and thin rubber washers used to mount the alloy tank are not used.

I hope this helps.

Thanks for the replys on the P11 oil tank
Ron are there any drawings or perhaps a copy of the page out of a parts manual so I can fabricate them up ??
I am probably dreaming if you know any one who sells them off the shelf ??

Best Wishes Steve

Ron L said:

From your description I assume you are mounting the steel tank? (Alloy tank mounts differently).

According to the factory bulletin supplied with replacement steel tanks, the top mounting consists of P/N 034114 split rubber isolator, P/N 03411 top mount bolt plate, P/N 034104 Top mount plate "B", P/N 034105 Top mount plate "A", (2) P/N 042272 large clamping bracket washers, and (2) P/N 022083 nuts.

The front mount consists of P/N 034115 split rubber isolator, P/N 034127 bracket with studs, P/N 034106 bracket with holes, (2) P/N 042272 large clamping bracket washers, and (2) P/N 034129 nuts.

The thick and thin rubber washers used to mount the alloy tank are not used.

I hope this helps.

Click to expand...

Hi RonL
I have the steel oil tank as you described above with all the bits associated with it. My question is about the cross braces on the frame. The holes are huge! Compared to the fixing studs going through these welded cross brackets. Is the large hole there just to maneuver the tank into the tight fit area or should I also have grommets to centralize the fixing bolts?
Thanks
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

Thomas, as you assumed, those holes are enlarged to help align the oil tank properly - at least in my experience.

My Ranger had two brackets with studs - one for the top and one for the front. I installed them on the oil tank side of the frame cross pieces. Then installed the tank, then fit the hanging brackets, sandwiching the cross pieces with the bracket assemblies.
As I tightened up the nuts, I was able to move the tank around a little bit to ensure it wouldn't rub on the frame members, cinching things up when it was in the best position. Hope this helps

Bill

Yes Bill
Thanks again
Cheers
Thomas
CNN

I have a copy of the factory drawing and installation instructions for the mounts as a PDF file. Anyone who wishes a copy can PM me their e-mail and I'll send them a copy. Unless someone can tell me how I can post a PDF file?

I believe the large holes in the frame were for the large rubber buffers used on the aluminum tank. When a replacement steel tank was offered, they did not change the size of the holes in the frame mount. Who knows why! It's not as if they never made changes to the frame, as they changed the seat mounts, upper rear fender mount, ignition switch tab, etc.

Steveconnell said:

Thanks for the replys on the P11 oil tank
Ron are there any drawings or perhaps a copy of the page out of a parts manual so I can fabricate them up ??
I am probably dreaming if you know any one who sells them off the shelf ??

Best Wishes Steve

Click to expand...

Mike Partridge (Walridge) shows he has 3 sets of upper mounts and 1 set of front mounts with a couple extra of one of the front brackets. His price is pretty dear in his price list so you might want to call him and confirm that he has them and the price. A buddy of mine is contemplating making these as he needs a few sets for his projects. He will likely make some extra sets. However, it will be months (if ever) before he has any available.

While preparing a couple frames for paint, my buddy and I decided to test fit a couple NOS steel tanks I found in the Netherlands and his prototype reproduction tank mounts and rubbers. These tanks have never been installed, but are pretty dinged up from banging around a dealership for 40 years. The tanks were too wide at the rear to even fit in the frame and required a little heating and reshaping to clear the battery tray and frame tube to get the tank into position.

After a couple more "adjustments", the tank was mounted. Placing both upper mounts above the frame plate and the plate with the studs under the frame plate and both front mount plates behind the front frame plate gave us nice clearance everywhere except between the upper frame tubes and the top of the tank. Sandwiching the two top plates on either side of the top frame plate gave us better clearance at the top of the tank with some sacrifice between the tank and frame rails on the sides.

Then we pulled the seats off his three Rangers and my Ranger to find all four have the tank mounted with both clamping plates and the stud plate mounted below the frame plate! Also all four of these bikes have the tank rubbing against the rear frame rails and the vent from the oil tank tower makes a tight bend and actually kinks due to the proximity to the frame plate. Now I'm sure these tanks have been out of the frame at some time in their life. However, I find it is odd that all four would have been refitted differently from how the factory mounted them. Quite curious.

Now my logic says this top mount would not have been designed in three pieces if it was intended to be mounted under the frame plate. If so it would have the studs welded into the bottom clamp as is the case with the front tank mount, making the top mount only two pieces also. I'm surmising by the design of the clamp that the intent was to place the plate with the studs under the frame plate and both clamping plates above the plate.

My suggestion to anyone installing a steel tank to carefully check that the frame is not touching the tank anywhere and assemble the top mount in the arrangement that provides the maximum clearances in all directions.

Hi Ron
Please send your PDF File on the factory P11 oil tank installation. Sconnell@dooroombah.com
Many thanks. Steve

Ron, could I have a copy also please, matt.roberts@btinternet.com.

Thanks Ron
My steel tank of this type, that I am running for extended street use and strength, is mounted with A, B and stud plate 034111 all under the frame strap (with large holes) and it seems to working for my installation just fine for 5000 miles or so. These instructions addressing the seat clearance will make me look again next time this is apart.

p400 said:

Thanks Ron
My steel tank of this type, that I am running for extended street use and strength, is mounted with A, B and stud plate 034111 all under the frame strap (with large holes) and it seems to working for my installation just fine for 5000 miles or so. These instructions addressing the seat clearance will make me look again next time this is apart.

Click to expand...

Dear All,
it was impossible to buy the lower fixing clamps 034127 and 034106.
Nobody supply them.
I must do them my self.
Please, can you give me the correct measurement?.
I would appreciate so much.
Thank you.
Piero

Piero,
As the mounts are asymmetric it would be difficult to reproduce them with just some measurements. You would need an original set to copy or at least some reasonable engineering drawings.

Ron L said:

Piero,
As the mounts are asymmetric it would be difficult to reproduce them with just some measurements. You would need an original set to copy or at least some reasonable engineering drawings.

Click to expand...

Hi.
I know.
Peter helped me with the measurement and i think i can do it.
Thank you.
Piero

p400 said:

Thanks Ron
My steel tank of this type, that I am running for extended street use and strength, is mounted with A, B and stud plate 034111 all under the frame strap (with large holes) and it seems to working for my installation just fine for 5000 miles or so. These instructions addressing the seat clearance will make me look again next time this is apart.

Click to expand...

Hi all.
I am looking for to buy the lower brackets clamps 034106 and 034127.
Nobody supply.
Is not very difficult to made it but i would more happy to buy it.
Someone have a pair to sell?.
Thank you.
Piero

EBay seller bsanut offers P11 oil tank mounts, they look nice, any users?

I have bought it fom Walridge.