Norton Manx Ace Cafe
- Thread starter Johnnymac
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- Nov 11, 2013
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- 5,396
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2008
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- 35
This does not look like one of Steve's builds. Different, front brake and fender, gauges, tank, primary cover, foot rests, and rear shocks. Also no compression release.
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2010
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- 8,215
Makes you wonder what would have happened if these bikes had been available new back in their heyday...
http://www.stevetonkinclassics.com/Reso ... termon.png
http://www.stevetonkinclassics.com/Reso ... termon.png
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2013
- Messages
- 397
Hi
I brought my 1955 Manx back in 1971 around $370 au, $100 deposit and paid the rest off over 12 months, young family etc.
Put it on the road with, 1958 99 alternator, fibreglass seat and tank, Suzuki head light, concentric carb etc.
I used the Dominator chain case as well.
After a while I also fitted the Dominator gearbox as I got tied of all the push starts, with the Manx Norton box, also meant I could idle through towns in second gear, that is as much as you can idle a Manx.
The first problem was vibration, in hindsight I should have rebalanced the engine to suit the lower Rev/min work of a road bike, anything over 5,500 was great but you can do this all the time and keep a license!
Second problem they don't produce much power down low so really pretty useless but OK for show, and I guess this is what a café racer is about anyway.
Third problem was the oil leaks from the push rods/exposed valve springs, I have recently made longer push rods and a good seal and it appears to have solved the problem some what.
The bike in the photo looks as if the English road salt may be takeing it's toll, I have a similar issue but the bike was in storage for around 20 years, brake hubs are showing signs of oxidisation which I need to address ASAP.
I still have the bike (restored back in the 80s) and will head to Broadford again this Easter with new tyres this time with the plan to stay upright.
As much as I love my Manx I still think the better deal was the G50 Matchless that was produced as a road bike by forgot by who (Colin Sealy?), but easier to keep more oil tight.
Regards
Burgs
I brought my 1955 Manx back in 1971 around $370 au, $100 deposit and paid the rest off over 12 months, young family etc.
Put it on the road with, 1958 99 alternator, fibreglass seat and tank, Suzuki head light, concentric carb etc.
I used the Dominator chain case as well.
After a while I also fitted the Dominator gearbox as I got tied of all the push starts, with the Manx Norton box, also meant I could idle through towns in second gear, that is as much as you can idle a Manx.
The first problem was vibration, in hindsight I should have rebalanced the engine to suit the lower Rev/min work of a road bike, anything over 5,500 was great but you can do this all the time and keep a license!
Second problem they don't produce much power down low so really pretty useless but OK for show, and I guess this is what a café racer is about anyway.
Third problem was the oil leaks from the push rods/exposed valve springs, I have recently made longer push rods and a good seal and it appears to have solved the problem some what.
The bike in the photo looks as if the English road salt may be takeing it's toll, I have a similar issue but the bike was in storage for around 20 years, brake hubs are showing signs of oxidisation which I need to address ASAP.
I still have the bike (restored back in the 80s) and will head to Broadford again this Easter with new tyres this time with the plan to stay upright.
As much as I love my Manx I still think the better deal was the G50 Matchless that was produced as a road bike by forgot by who (Colin Sealy?), but easier to keep more oil tight.
Regards
Burgs
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2013
- Messages
- 397
Bernhard
Yes the Cam followers, buckets, whatever were quite often referred to as push rods in the Manx engines.
Piece out of the Bruce Main Smith article , prepared with the assistance of, Alan Wilson and Edgar Franks of Norton Motors.
"The Cam Box
It is really necessary to dismantle the cam box only partially when the cams are being changed or the valve timing reset (if it believed to be wrong). Wear on the moving parts is very small indeed and for constructional reasons, certain parts can be serviced only by the makers.
Take off the top bevel housing, the bevel cover and the locking plates. Undo the nine cover screws and hold the pushrods in position to prevent the cam gear coming out as the cover is with-drawn.
The term pushrod is applied to the short reciprocating cam-followers. The cams may be taken out after the pushrods have been dropped; the purpose of the flats is to stop the pushrods rotating the rubbing action of the cams.
Finally the outrigger plate is released by unthreading 3XX nuts and two XX” nuts with plain washers.
The centre shaft nut has a left-hand thread and is removal frees the bearing, the gear and the distance piece behind the gear, the centre shaft complete with bevel being withdrawn from the opposite side".
Regards Burgs
Yes the Cam followers, buckets, whatever were quite often referred to as push rods in the Manx engines.
Piece out of the Bruce Main Smith article , prepared with the assistance of, Alan Wilson and Edgar Franks of Norton Motors.
"The Cam Box
It is really necessary to dismantle the cam box only partially when the cams are being changed or the valve timing reset (if it believed to be wrong). Wear on the moving parts is very small indeed and for constructional reasons, certain parts can be serviced only by the makers.
Take off the top bevel housing, the bevel cover and the locking plates. Undo the nine cover screws and hold the pushrods in position to prevent the cam gear coming out as the cover is with-drawn.
The term pushrod is applied to the short reciprocating cam-followers. The cams may be taken out after the pushrods have been dropped; the purpose of the flats is to stop the pushrods rotating the rubbing action of the cams.
Finally the outrigger plate is released by unthreading 3XX nuts and two XX” nuts with plain washers.
The centre shaft nut has a left-hand thread and is removal frees the bearing, the gear and the distance piece behind the gear, the centre shaft complete with bevel being withdrawn from the opposite side".
Regards Burgs