Norton commando warning light

nortonisthebest · Aug 2, 2014

Hi,
The battery voltage was 13 volts with everything off. I will recheck the stator wiring today. I have ridden the bike for 100 miles sense installing the new electronics and the lights are bright and everything works as it should. The battery seems to be holding it's charge. I did get a new digital voltage meter and while running the bike at idle the battery voltage was jumping all over the place from 11 up to 18 volts? must be a bad meter? My analog meter didn't jump around at all showing 13 volts at idle.

L.A.B. · Aug 2, 2014

nortonisthebest said:
Earlier I indicated the wrong key positions. The first is parking and I can only turn the front head light on, bike will not start.

At the parking lights position, the pilot, tail and instrument bulbs should light, but it should not be possible to turn the main headlamp on.

nortonisthebest said:
Third position should be ignition on only but I can turn my lights on and turn signals all work.

Yes, at the third key position, none of the lights should be available (except for signals and brake light) regardless of the lighting switch position, so I'm guessing something isn't connected correctly?

nortonisthebest · Aug 2, 2014

Hi,
Yes I agree, I will check the switch harness for any incorrect wire connections per the wiring diagram.
I'll let you know. Thanks

nortonisthebest · Aug 2, 2014

Hello,
Good news, I found out why the red warning light was coming on. I looked at the switch and how it was wired and found that the #4 wire was connected to the #1 switch prong and the #1 wire was connected to the #4 switch prong. After fixing the wiring, I turned the ignition switch on and the red warning light came on, then I started the engine and the red warning light went out. Went for a 20 mile ride switching the key to the #4 position and back to the #3 position and the red warning light never came on. When I turned the switch to the #2 position the engine shut down. I then turned the key to the #3 and #4 position the red light came on with the engine still off. The # 1 position also worked with tail light, gauge lights and running light came on and could not start the bike. Everything worked as it should. I purchased this Norton from the original owner and he must have switched the wiring?. I have owned 5 Norton's and this 1973 is the best one yet. 4 commando 750's and one 850. I want to thank everyone for their input to help solve this puzzling problem. I guess you can't take anything for granted. I was very fortunate to find a Norton with only 10,500 original miles. Thanks again, Paul

concours · Aug 2, 2014

nortonisthebest said:
Hello,
Good news, I found out why the red warning light was coming on. I looked at the switch and how it was wired and found that the #4 wire was connected to the #1 switch prong and the #1 wire was connected to the #4 switch prong. After fixing the wiring, I turned the ignition switch on and the red warning light came on, then I started the engine and the red warning light went out. Went for a 20 mile ride switching the key to the #4 position and back to the #3 position and the red warning light never came on. When I turned the switch to the #2 position the engine shut down. I then turned the key to the #3 and #4 position the red light came on with the engine still off. The # 1 position also worked with tail light, gauge lights and running light came on and could not start the bike. Everything worked as it should. I purchased this Norton from the original owner and he must have switched the wiring?. I have owned 5 Norton's and this 1973 is the best one yet. 4 commando 750's and one 850. I want to thank everyone for their input to help solve this puzzling problem. I guess you can't take anything for granted. I was very fortunate to find a Norton with only 10,500 original miles. Thanks again, Paul

Good job! :mrgreen:

kerinorton · Aug 3, 2014

I noticed you used an arc welder or mig welder on the bike. I hope you disconnected the battery when you did that. It is standard practice in the automotive industry to disconnect the battery because it saves the electronics from being fried.
all thebest, Dereck

nortonisthebest · Aug 3, 2014

Hi,
Yes I did disconnect the battery. I grounded the mig welder to the frame and unfortunately the bike is wired as positive ground and the mig welder was negative ground causing the bikes ground wires to burn up, ouch. I drove a steel rod into the ground and grounded the welder and bike frame to it. I finished the welding repairs. I then replaced the electrical components that were connected to the burned up ground wires. Please read my post written earlier. Thanks, Paul

nortonisthebest · Aug 3, 2014

Hello again,
NOTE: Never do any welding on a positive ground bike using a welder that has a negative ground. Always, as Dereck stated, disconnect the battery. Then you need to ground the bike to earth ground before welding.
Thanks, Paul

concours · Aug 3, 2014

nortonisthebest said:
Hello again,
NOTE: Never do any welding on a positive ground bike using a welder that has a negative ground. Always, as Dereck stated, disconnect the battery. Then you need to ground the bike to earth ground before welding.
Thanks, Paul

OK, I'll bite. What part of the bike did you weld on? And where was the ground clamp attached?

nortonisthebest · Aug 3, 2014

Hi,
The first owner had drilled two holes, one on each side of the frame tubing located just behind where the seat screws on. What the screws were used for I have no idea. I removed the screws and welded the holes closed. I grounded the upper part of the bike frame. I hope this answers your question.
Paul

Norton commando warning light

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