Norton 850 start up after sitting 20 years

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RoadScholar said:
There was little or no alcohol added to motor fuel 20 years ago, so you might get lucky by just removing the idle air screws, squirting some carb cleaner into the passages and blow out with compressed air. Your fuel line may be highly brittle, wouldn't hurt to replace the lines. Do a hard look into the tank and check for rust/debris, if it is loaded with same, remove the tank, add about a cup of nuts and bolts in there with mineral sprits/paint thinner and dance with it for about 30 minutes, drain and repeat as necessary until the solvent you are using comes out clear. When done up-end the tank and remove the nuts and bolts, use a long handled magnet to get the ones that want a free ride.

Check all the adjustments and torques.

Change all the fluids: transmission, primary. And do clear the clutch with the K/S before attempting to engage first gear. If the clutch is locked up, and it may well be, remove it clean the plates and make sure that it disengages before dumping it into first gear. Norton gearboxes have been know to break up when selecting first gear with a locked clutch.

The fork oil would like a change, probably never been done.

Your front brake would like new fluid, again, probably never been done.

Get new tires immediately, if you are satisfied with the way the power train is operating. Those old tires will give you the traction of a man running on banana peels. And, don't skimp, get new tubes also.

Lastly. When you do get it running well, don't be too eager to "go up country". Start with a 5 mile circle, increase the radius slowly until your new friend earns your trust. When you do head up country, bring your cell phone and a credit card, file a flight plan with someone you trust, so if you become MIA someone will know, roughly, where to look for you.

Best wishes, and congratulations!

After you have put between 50 and 100 miles on your new friend change all the fluids again

More strategically, be aware that the valve springs that were left with load on them are tired; they will not restore themselves, so if it runs well don't challenge the advertised red-line
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Tkanks, good info. i will clean the carbs and put new fuel lines on it. Tank is pretty clean, but I will flush it anyway. Good point on the clutch. I will make sure its free. I disassembled the front brake last night and it is in an amazing condition. I ordered new seals and pads for it.
The whole bike is very clean. I`m able to see a bit of an open valve through the spark plug holes and they look like new. The nice old lady I bought it from, told me that it was completely restored and then stored since.
Thank you for your time. I will keep you updated.
 
PeterM said:
:) Yes I know. There are many oil religions. Thanks
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Personally I would not kick an engine over 20 to 30 times to ascertain oil return -you risk scuffing the cam. Further if it has stood for 20years it would be a good idea to replace the oil pump seal and crankshaft end feed garter oil seal. If you wish to ascertain that there is oil flowing back off one of the pressure rocker feed bolts to the head , it will leak once the engine is started.
 
oldmikew said:
Personally I would not kick an engine over 20 to 30 times to ascertain oil return -you risk scuffing the cam. Further if it has stood for 20years it would be a good idea to replace the oil pump seal and crankshaft end feed garter oil seal. If you wish to ascertain that there is oil flowing back off one of the pressure rocker feed bolts to the head , it will leak once the engine is started.
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Thanks, the sump was full of oil, so I guess it leaked through the pump as someone suggested earlier. Do you suggest to fire it up shortly with one of the feed bolts loose?
 
You can actually take both feed tubes free at the head and place them in a bottle to catch oil. Take the rocker covers off and squirt oil on the rockers and down the pushrod tubes. Now kick it over. If it starts look at the bottle and see if the feed tubes are streaming oil. regardless of yes or no, shut the bike down. If yes, reassemble rocker covers and feed tubes and then start it again. If no, then more work is needed to figure out why.

Remember to tickle the carbs and the choke lever works with slack cable for cold start, tight cable for warm.

Good luck!

Russ
 
PeterM said:
Thanks, the sump was full of oil, so I guess it leaked through the pump as someone suggested earlier. Do you suggest to fire it up shortly with one of the feed bolts loose?
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I would pull the timing cover and replace the seals . they may well have hardened and break down
 
rvich said:
You can actually take both feed tubes free at the head and place them in a bottle to catch oil. Take the rocker covers off and squirt oil on the rockers and down the pushrod tubes. Now kick it over. If it starts look at the bottle and see if the feed tubes are streaming oil. regardless of yes or no, shut the bike down. If yes, reassemble rocker covers and feed tubes and then start it again. If no, then more work is needed to figure out why.

Remember to tickle the carbs and the choke lever works with slack cable for cold start, tight cable for warm.

Good luck!

Russ
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Better to slacken a rocker feed bolt so it leaks... if you detach the rocker feed completely and the oil pipe is open , then there is no effective oil pressure
 
PeterM said:
Thanks, you might be right. I will drain the sump and follow your advice. Should i lube the pistons a little, through the spark plug holes?
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You could squirt some Redex through the spark plug hole, but engine will smoke when started up for a short while. Or use some two stroke oil. HTH
 
Yes I occasionally put 3 or 4 or 5 drops of 2 stroke oil into my freshly filled up gas tank. Gives a tiny amount of lube without coloring the plugs or any smoke.
 
Gentlemen, My Norton is alive. Cleaned the carbs today and had a good flow of oil from the return line and from the rocker feed pipes. It fired right up. Only had it running 2 times for about 20-30 sec each. Right side heated up a bit more than the left, but I guess it's due to uneven carb adjustment. It seems to run really well and at second start it was able to idle beautiful. I located a shop that is specialized in old Norton`s and I will ask them to go over it and fine tune it.
Thank you all for your inputs. I`m thrilled and a very happy man today:)
 
PeterM said:
Hi Norton friends,

Norton 850 start up after sitting 20 years

I`m a new member from Denmark. I Just bought This 1973 Commando 850 from the widow to the former owner. Its been stored for 20 years and I´m ancious fire it up, but I want to do it right.
I managed to get a good fat spark in both sides and I will inspect the carbs. My questions are:
  1. What oil to put into it? all oil is drained for storrage.
  2. Best oil filter.
  3. How do I check the oil circuit, before start up?
  4. Can I run unleaded fuel or do I mix it with additives.
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I would clean the oil tank out. After 20 years there has to be a lot of sludge in the bottom. As others have posted, pour fresh oil down the exhaust rockers to oil up the cam. Crack one of the rocker oil lines loose at the head and kick it over until oil starts to come out. I would expect the rocker oil lines to be brittle so you should replace them as soon as you can.
Clean the carburetors. Yes you can run unleaded fuel.
Steel or fiberglass fuel tank?
I'm sure others will have other suggestions too!
Welcome to the group.
John in Texas
 
N0rt0nelectr@ said:
I would clean the oil tank out. After 20 years there has to be a lot of sludge in the bottom. As others have posted, pour fresh oil down the exhaust rockers to oil up the cam. Crack one of the rocker oil lines loose at the head and kick it over until oil starts to come out. I would expect the rocker oil lines to be brittle so you should replace them as soon as you can.
Clean the carburetors. Yes you can run unleaded fuel.
Steel or fiberglass fuel tank?
I'm sure others will have other suggestions too!
Welcome to the group.
John in Texas
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Thanks John, Actually all the oil was drained through the pump an into the sump over the years and the oil tank looks pretty clean. I will replace the oil lines as you recommend. They do look brittle. It's a steel tank. I wish I could figure out how to upload pics here, but that's beyond me for now. It has Borani aluminum rims. Are they stock? Sure looks good.
 
Please keep us posted on your progress and when you can post some pictures.

John in Texas
 
Whereabouts in Denmark are you? I'm in Copenhagen if that's any help :)
Oh, and by the way for our US readers, Denmark is seriously tiny compared to the US, so no great risk of getting stuck and not being found again...
 
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