nOOb Commando Exhaust question

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chapmanmd

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Jul 22, 2011
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Quick question...

I'm looking to buy new exhaust nuts for my '70. The nuts specify 1 3/8 or 1 1/2 etc. Where is this measurement taken from? I want to make sure I get the right nuts.

Thanks.
 
The measurement is refering to the diameter of the header pipe. Make sure you are getting nuts for a 750 as the depth of thread is a little longer on the 750 than the 850.

Russ
 
Walridge has some real nice bronze ones. If you need the number, I'll try to find it.

Dave
69S
 
Thanks guys for the quick reply!

I already planned to order the bronze nuts.

You guys are the best!
 
I vote the bronze ones too after switching out from steel. Nipping them up is serious business and pipe wrench and water pump jaws and big hammers and drifts
ain't up to it w/o damaging these hollow "bolts". Really need the proper tool and a 3-4ft long helper bar or 3 lb sledge on the raw metal of robust factory tool. Really wires are just for show and not to loose em down the pipes, not to keep them from rattling to death the head threads. Mike of Magnesium is a good anti-seize, since they must be on so tight they don't come off - can be a booger to get off later.
It took me months to be brave enough not to be surprised now and then by a header coming loose at speed.
 
I put on a pair of bronze nuts from Walridge on in the spring. Dressed the treads with a light coat of Permatex Ultra Copper (as found in another thread in this forum) and invested in an Exhaust Nut Wrench. Put them on and tightened them up and then took few laps around the neighbourhood to get things nice and hot and then retightened them real good. They haven't moved since. I've stopped carrying the wrench around with me now, but still check them when I get home from a ride.

Oh and they look nice too
 
I have a 4' pece of 1 1/2" pipe I use as a extension and put it on the 'nolts' to tighten them. When you pull it down, you can feel how it tightens the 'nolts'. Do it when it's hot and you shouldn't have any problems, I never have.

Dave
69S
 
I gave in and bought bronze ones from Waldridge as well. They're not installed yet, but they're going to look DAMN good.

-Jordan
 
Niagara850 said:
I put on a pair of bronze nuts from Walridge on in the spring. Dressed the treads with a light coat of Permatex Ultra Copper (as found in another thread in this forum) and invested in an Exhaust Nut Wrench. Put them on and tightened them up and then took few laps around the neighbourhood to get things nice and hot and then retightened them real good. They haven't moved since. I've stopped carrying the wrench around with me now, but still check them when I get home from a ride.

I have an adapter that lets me use a torque wrench.
I put anti-sieze on the threads.
Re-tighten to about 80 ft-lbs after first ride.
I then mark both the nut and on head with permanent marker.
At a glance I can see if there has been any movement bettween the marks.
After about 4,000 miles I've yet to have a nut loosen.

Bob
Click to expand...
 
You guys are full of sage advice!

I have the c-spanner and am using the pipe extension trick now.

I also ordered the bronze nuts yesterday from Waldridge. Unfortunately, there is a 2-3 week back order on them, but I think they will be worth the wait. I just cannot wait to get these obnoxious open pipes off of there.

Again, you guys are the best!!!
 
chapmanmd said:
You guys are full of sage advice!

I have the c-spanner and am using the pipe extension trick now.

I also ordered the bronze nuts yesterday from Waldridge. Unfortunately, there is a 2-3 week back order on them, but I think they will be worth the wait. I just cannot wait to get these obnoxious open pipes off of there.

Again, you guys are the best!!!
Click to expand...
For goodness sake don't go crazy tightening these up. Anti sneeze on the threads, snug, run, snug, run, snug and that should do it. The only effect you will get by using a breaker bar will be negative when you suddenly jump a thread and that turtle head you've been pinching off releases.
 
Ok, the Bultaco nut and bolt restoration is all but done and it's time to move on to the Commando. This is going to sound really stupid, but does anyone have a source for a diagram for how the plates/rubbers to together for the pea shooters? Again, this is my first Norton, so please be gentle... I have my handy Haynes manual... nothing. I have my Norton Villiers Spares List... nothing. If anyone knows of a source for a diagram of how the plates/rubbers go together and mount to the Z plates that makes sense and could share it with me, I would be highly appreciative. Even if anyone has some close-up pictures of the mounts, that would be a great help. I got new stainless plates and rubbers from Phil at Fair Spares America. I just don't know how these go together.

My apologies for the nOOb question, but I would really like to do this right and not just do what makes sense to this Norton neophyte.

I found this: http://rocbo.lautre.net/technique/norton_workshop/img/f/f16.gif but it still really doesn't make sense to me.

Thanks again for any help.

Mark
 
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