NGK BP 7ES RIP

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Looking at that Norton plug I would say that you could advance the timing a degree or two.
 
Todays fuel is not the same as the fuel we used back in the day, leaded fuels seem the burn better than the unleaded fuels, I was lucky a few years ago a mate gave me his old Honda dirt bike XL250 that still had a full tank of super leaded fuel still in the tank, yes the bike has been sitting since the 80s, the fuel still smell like its was OK, a mate and myself were on the beers up in the shed one day and in my garden bed was some long grass weeds growing so we decided to test the old fuel with our modern fuel, leaded Vs unleaded 98 octane, I poured a cup of leaded fuel at the base of the weeds and lit it up the flames went up about 5' and a strong flame, then we did the same with the unleaded fuel and lit it up and the flame only went about 2' and 3' at the most and the flame wasn't as strong and not as hot, I was surprised about that, a few months later I got the bike going and it fired up with that leaded fuel and ran great with it even after all that time sitting in the tank, if you let unleaded fuel sit for a few months it goes off.
So yes our modern fuels is not the same as when our Norton's were built, even the color of the fuels is different the leaded fuel a red color and the unleaded is more yellow and has so much other crap mixed in it, but my Norton still runs great with the Champion plugs.

Ashley
 
so i order BP7ES plugs from 2 sellers on E BAY because the ad clearly show them. guess what, both sellers send resistor type. so now i get to dispute these transactions!
 
Looking at that Norton plug I would say that you could advance the timing a degree or two.

How do you figure that? The initial to full advance line is right where it should be on the strap, plugs aren't fouling, base ring is evenly coloured. She pulls like a train throughout the rev range with no hint of hesitation or stumbling
 
so i order BP7ES plugs from 2 sellers on E BAY because the ad clearly show them. guess what, both sellers send resistor type. so now i get to dispute these transactions!

Bill, if you know and trust the ebay traders then what I’m about to say can be ignored...

In general, buying NGKs off of eBay is a bit of a lottery, there is a too greater chance of getting counterfeit goods.

I would always say its better to buy from a trusted source, their supply chain can still get infiltrated of course, but they’re likely to be a tad more diligent.
 
Why ? .

Why Not .

NGK BP 7ES RIP


NGK BP 7ES RIP


Though of course this is extreme cases, and e dont seem to mention plug grades, at a glance .

Pre Electronic ignition , anything'd usually ' pink ' ( Pre-Ignition ) usually max tourque / load / low revs - uphill/ to high a gear . if it ran any real compression & a bit of cam. Like a Norton .

Its a ' pinking ' sound , like a long ( maybe ) continuos ( maybe ) crikle ( pinkel ! )

Hot plugs in a old oil burnig dog , if used in anger , will maybe meltem down the side of a piston, where its loosest . And take the rings with it .

OR LEAN , like a TRIUMPH , W F O on a Hill , with one fuel tap on . ( open both for the TON UP THE BYPASS )

So the Plug Range relates to the operating temperature & ignition point .

If someone rides a hot ship like an old woman , they may need hotter plugs , however , when the red mist comes down over there eyes , itll faff out smartly . throttle on the stop .

So There . Now You Know .
 
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Pre-ignition.

What’s the up side?
Dont know for sure. Just trying to learn. I have a fouling issue I'm chasing. (No need to get into that topic on this thread). I use Champion N7YC's. Can I go with a little hotter plug till i get the fouling sorted without causing harm?
 
NGK BP 7ES RIP


That IS about how youd run em , back on real ? gas , in the 70s . A Triumph, anyway. If you lived in the sticks so the I.o.M. T.T. course bore a remarkable likeness to the nearby roads .
So All Out , chin on the tank , there was some leeway for barometric conditions etc .

Theory was ere rich for tourque / acceleration . With a decent ( free breathing ) exhaust , she'll tend leaner under sustained top gear wide open operation in most circumstances .
Therefore it wouldnt go ' overlean ' . which would lead to tears .

Tho the Commando went all white everywhere insides from the plugs to the aft of the exhaust , at continuous high speeds . But wernt no standard Commando .
Then we'll start on about real coils , if you want real performance .

Hot Plugs would be no remedy for weak coils / spark - ANYWAY . and still maintain the dangers . a minimum 8 mm white / blue H T spark is madatory .
a 1/2 inch ( plus ) H T ' jump' is vastly smoother running . No stutter & bonk . But the front can tend to lift if the rest of the machine opperates as well .
 
Dont know for sure. Just trying to learn. I have a fouling issue I'm chasing. (No need to get into that topic on this thread). I use Champion N7YC's. Can I go with a little hotter plug till i get the fouling sorted without causing harm?

Maybe first try a fine electrode plug in the correct heat range
 
Dont know for sure. Just trying to learn. I have a fouling issue I'm chasing. (No need to get into that topic on this thread). I use Champion N7YC's. Can I go with a little hotter plug till i get the fouling sorted without causing harm?

I don’t know, but you’re trying to fix a on actual running problem.
 
NGK BP 7ES RIP


That IS about how youd run em , back on real ? gas , in the 70s . A Triumph, anyway. If you lived in the sticks so the I.o.M. T.T. course bore a remarkable likeness to the nearby roads .
So All Out , chin on the tank , there was some leeway for barometric conditions etc .

Theory was ere rich for tourque / acceleration . With a decent ( free breathing ) exhaust , she'll tend leaner under sustained top gear wide open operation in most circumstances .
Therefore it wouldnt go ' overlean ' . which would lead to tears .

Tho the Commando went all white everywhere insides from the plugs to the aft of the exhaust , at continuous high speeds . But wernt no standard Commando .
Then we'll start on about real coils , if you want real performance .

Hot Plugs would be no remedy for weak coils / spark - ANYWAY . and still maintain the dangers . a minimum 8 mm white / blue H T spark is madatory .
a 1/2 inch ( plus ) H T ' jump' is vastly smoother running . No stutter & bonk . But the front can tend to lift if the rest of the machine opperates as well .
not sure I totally understand your post, but as it starts out, you seem to be indicating things are OK. in reference to your coil statement, new 6V coils, and I might add, timing's at 28°, running ethanol free gas, and i'm pretty much at sea level. one additional thing - running, what I believe is the original exhaust - mufflers (welded mutes) and header pipes. back pressure should be as factory designed. performance wise, I can't complain although I have nothing to compare it to. bike usually starts with 1 or 2 kicks, relatively smooth idle (1K rpm), and pulls fairly strong through the gears. my 74 was DOA when I bought it - having no experience with old british bikes, I could only put things back to factory specs. the only significant mod was the addition of a tri-spark ignition. since is don't seem to have issues, might as well leave things as is.
 
I failed to locate any BP 7ES so went with BPR 7ES this time and am giving them a shot. Used Champion, AC, and a multitude of others back in the late 70's and mine would chew them up in a matter of a few 100 miles, so gave up and stuck with NGK. However I did get a couple of K out of the NGK iridium but didn't feel it offset the cost enough.
 
After reading about their wonderful snake oil type properties in a classic magazine, I bought some Brisk plugs.

I‘m not sure what they run like as I’m not sure I’ll fit them. I bought 4 pairs and when I took them out of the boxes the plug gaps ranged from .030” to zero... yes zero. And none of the electrodes lined up centrally.

With that level of manufacturing quality, I am rather reluctant to put them in my P&J...

Conclusion: Don’t buy any.
 
After reading about their wonderful snake oil type properties in a classic magazine, I bought some Brisk plugs.

I‘m not sure what they run like as I’m not sure I’ll fit them. I bought 4 pairs and when I took them out of the boxes the plug gaps ranged from .030” to zero... yes zero. And none of the electrodes lined up centrally.

With that level of manufacturing quality, I am rather reluctant to put them in my P&J...

Conclusion: Don’t buy any.
'A major contribution to road safety' then? As Robert Marks used to say.. given that they seem to encourage people not to ride their bikes with them in :)
 
today I learnt plugs (in a norton) can go bad when they look perfect. About a mile from home (last night) the bike started running intermittently rough. I thought I was running out of fuel. Pulled the plugs checked carbs and fuel in tank, all looked good, except the plugs looked exceptionally clean for a Norton, no black soot or burnt oil at all! The weather has suddenly turned hot so if anything the carbs are going to run rich. Long story short, road side recovery today, young lad had a brass wire brush, good scrub and bike ran perfect. Probably about 4000 miles on these plugs (NGK BP 7ES). I have suspicions they are counterfeit as the bodies have rusted, I think genuine plugs have a more robust finish. Plugs off Ebay have to be treated as suspect I think, I have used and will continue to use Green Spark Plug from now on in the UK.
 
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