New to the forum - Mancos Colorado Rally Report

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It’s been an interesting few days. I was sitting on a bench at the only gas station in the small town of Rico, Colorado where we’re vacationing, when a guy pulls up in a beautifully restored Commando 750. Upon admiring his bike, he explained he was on his way to the INOA rally in Mancos, not far from here. I hadn’t thought about Norton in years, but I’ve always admired the classic look of these bikes and can remember lusting over Commando brochures when I was a kid in the early 70’s.

When I got back to an Internet connection, I discovered how much information there is about these vintage bikes and at the same time, I found you guys.

Yesterday, I drove to Mancos to check out the bikes. On the way, I stopped in Dolores, CO. to visit Colorado Norton Works and met Matt Rambow. What a great guy and a beautiful shop.

By the time we got to Mancos, most of the riders were headed out for a ride to Telluride. We passed several dozen on the way. At the rally campground I had a nice visit with a few of the remaining owners and was impressed with how friendly every one was and how much the loved their Norton’s. Unfortunately for the group riding to Telluride, it was an awful day to be on the road. Cold heavy rain in the mountains with a bit of ice and pea-sized hail to go with it.

Early that evening back in Rico, I saw a Commando 850 parked at the same station. The owner was nowhere to be found and I learned that he, like others, had ventured out without rain protection. The guy had come into the store cold, wet and shivering. Apparently, he had taken ill. His buddies ended up leaving him there and the store owner took him to his home to dry out and recuperate. Speaks well for the residents of Rico.

Needless to say, I’ve taken a renewed interest in Norton. I’ve been looking for a project, having completed a homebuilt airplane a few years back, and a Norton restoration sounds pretty challenging and exciting. I’m now beginning my search for a basket case, probably a 750 (I love the look of those drum brakes) to bring back to factory condition (or better). The idea of a factory restoration with only the modifications that improve reliability is most appealing to me. I’m glad I found the forum and look forward to having all my questions answered here.

Any advice on what to look for when examining bikes. . . How to spot a bent frame, for instance? Particular hot spots that I should be looking for? One basket case which I’ve only seen in pictures, a 1970 750, looks promising. All the expensive parts are there. The engine is complete and attached to the frame and the parts rotate. He’s asking $1,500.

Thanks in advance for all the help I know I’ll receive here.
 
Ah, welcome to the addiction.

Read through the forums both here and elsewhere and there is everything you will need to know about what to look for.
 
Welcome to the weird and wonderful world of Commandos. If you can pick up a complete, or mostly all there 750 for $1500 youre doing OK. But, where it goes from there can be any where from $5,000 to $10,000 depending on what you want to do to it.

There are many peculiarities to certain models over the years, things to avoid and things that can be rectified and upgraded. In summary, any Commando model can be built up to be a solid, dependable and enjoyable motorcycle.

The main thing is that just about any part can be purchased for a Commando, and there are a bunch of experts here on this forum who can advise who to see if you need specialist services.

Once you pick your bike, the first thing you got to do is record the Engine Number, Frame Number and Gearbox number when you post queries on the forum. That helps us figure out what year and series it is and that leads to recommendations on bits and pieces and things to do.

Good luck,

Mick
 
Bonwit,

I'm afraid you've become infected with the Norton virus. That's the motorcycle kind, not the computer type. There is no known cure. You can lessen the suffering by buying, then restoring and upgrading the machine. Riding it does help some , too. Good luck.
 
ML said:
Once you pick your bike, the first thing you got to do is record the Engine Number, Frame Number and Gearbox number when you post queries on the forum. That helps us figure out what year and series it is and that leads to recommendations on bits and pieces and things to do.

Good luck,

Mick

Speaking of numbers. . . I read where it's (obviously) desirable to purchase a bike whose frame, engine and gearbox all match. Should these numbers match exactly? Or is there some code I should be aware of? where do you look for the numbers on each component?

Thanks
 
I believe they should all match except for the 75 mk3's? May be wrong though
 
Hi Bonwit,

Nice chance happening to the INOA rally and welcome. Numbers on engine, frame and gearbox will always match from 1968 to 1974 models. Engine number is on the crankcase drive side (left) just below the cylinder joint. Frame number is on a riveted aluminum plate on the stearing head. Gearbox number is on the top of the top mounting boss of the case, under the air box - bit hard to see. The advantage of having matching numbers is it is then from one year and easier to put back to factory original. Also the NOC England has the factory build records and can tell you when it was built, color, what model it left as and what importer it shipped to.

Funny thing about drum front brakes, 20+ years ago you couldn't give them away as everyone was converting the early models to disc. Now they're priceless. If you get one, plan on upgrading with the stiffening kit - Norvil Motors.
 
Hi Bonwit
Things to look for...
Check all numbers match, if possible, engine frame and gearbox.
If you go for a 750, in my opinion avoid a 'Combat' engine....They are fast but too highly stressed in my opinion. You can find a 'C' stamped on the cylinder head. Do a search on this forum to get more details.
Check the engine casing very carefully for signs of fractures, weld repairs.
Check the cylinder head exaust locking threads for signs of thread degridation.
Check what carburettors are on...if a single Mikuni, then good, if Mk1 Amals then they will need replacing.
Check the swinging arm still pivots....leap up an down on it. Put it on the centre stand and grab the rear wheel and check for swinging arm and wheel bearing play.
Check the gearbox casing for signs of weld repair or damage.
Check and see if the engine mounting rubbers are adjustable type (theaded with holes to turn) or with shims....adjustable is best.
Pop the timing side points cover off and see if it has electronic ign or points on....electronic is best.
The drum brake is nice to look at but it wont stop you......
In my opinion I think the 850 Mk2 A is the best Commando, but I would, I have one. The 750 is faster on acceleration, and delivers the power at higher revs, the 850 is a bit more umph lower down but a bit more relaxed.
The MK3 is the last one....heavy bike, a bit gutless, electric start....it didn't work but with a lot of cash you can make it work.
My final advice is join a club, talk to the guys, and maybe find a bike through the club.
I am sure a others will advise more.
Matt at CNW knows Commandoes better than most, certainly how to make them work well and look great. But making Commandoes look that good doesn't come cheap.
My upgrades when I rebuilt:-
New amal mk1 carbs
Gearbox layshaft roller bearing conversion.
Primary drive chain to belt conversion, with dry clutch, fibre plates and clutch pushrod oil seal.
Electronic ign.
Lowered bike front and rear by 33mm (I am a short arse and I also like the style).
Alloy rims....19" front 18" rear. 18/110-80 tyre on rear (wider).
Upgraded disc brake system...smaller pison diameter at the master cylinder is the secret here...11mm was my choice after discussions with Jim C on this forum. Works like a modern bike now.
Adjustable 'vernier' type isolastic rubbers for engine gearbox mounting.
I reckon I have about £4000 in my bike, maybe a bit less. (A lot less if my girl is around!).

To me the Commando is one of the coolest bikes ever made...but it is high maintenance.

Good luck in your search.

Stu
 
Upgraded disc brake system...smaller piston diameter at the master cylinder is the secret here...11mm was my choice after discussions with Jim C on this forum. Works like a modern bike now.

Bigstu,

I'm glad you are happy with your front brake. Although, the 11mm master was the optimum choice for you, it is dependent upon the piston diameter of the caliper. The thing to look for is a ratio of 27:1, caliper piston area to master cylinder piston area.

http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm
 
JimC
I think I have the same Grimeca setup down below as you, with 42mm (2 off) pistons), I believe...
That gives me an area ratio of 29:1, if my calculations are correct.
Either way, the system works well. My only complaint at present is with the pads I use they do need some heat in them to work well. Once they have heat it is two fingered usage.. I use EBC kevlar pads, I think.
My other complaint is the pads rattle in the caliper at slow speed, due to the absence of any anti rattle springs.
Perfection with classic bikes can sometimes be elusive....
Stu.
 
For some reason 41mm pistons for a Grimeca sticks in my mind. I may be wrong about that. Whatever, I agree, 11mm with a Gremica 2P does make for one sweet brake.
 
On my mk3 the engine and gearbox match, but the italian frame serial is different by about 200,000
 
Great information. Thanks!

Regarding the cylinder head exhaust locking threads. . . .Though it's a basket case, the bike is on its wheels, the engine is in the frame and the pipes are attached. If the threads are damaged, is this a deal killer? Is it a big deal to remove the collars to check. I assume it requires a special spanner wrench which, of course, I don't have. Is there any way to check for signs of thread degradation without removing them?. From the photo, it looks like one or two of the points of the collar may be bent. Can that be straightened or is it best to replace these parts?

Thanks again to all for the good advice on what to look for when I visit this bike.

John
 
hi bonwit,regarding exaust port threads,it would,nt be a deal killer for me they can be repaired,probably cheaper than say a rebore and new pistons or a crank grind and new shells or a complete valve,guides, springs,seat recut job,at 1500 dollars for a rolling basket case i think you,re onto a fairly good deal but can try and haggle a cheaper price if you can pick as many spots off it as you can. i dont know where you,re from but if you,re near buffalo ny theres a big auction coming up lots of commandos (see my post in anything else motor cycle related)
 
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