new to me commando

I have recently bought a 1971 model fastback

It has been sitting in someones collection since about 1999 and may have only done 200 odd miles since a restoration was carried out , most probably around about that time. I last had a norton in 1973 and have been running mainly airheads since then, I do day to day work myself, engine rebuilds get farmed out, slight lack of tools in the right sizes but will get there!





The bike looks to be fairly good condition, frame etc has been powdercoated, crankcases have been split, carbs look new etc etc. There is a Boyer ignition, oil looks pretty clean, tyres need replacing.

The main issue at the moment is the tank, its fibreglass and is leaking where fuel has puddled after the fuel taps have be used to drain the tank, I have washed the tank out a couple of times, but still gives off a strong smell, is it going to be worth it to try and seal the tank or do I go straight to alloy/steel replica (I love the shape of fastbacks).






Does anyone have any views on who makes decent replica tanks.....Lots on Ebay at varying prices, but Im looking for something that will match the shape of the original and will take a proper coat of paint?

Other issues are around the best way of starting a new to you bike, Iwould guess to change the oil, pour some into the rocker boxes to lubricate the valve train and then spend a long time kicking with plugs out to make sure that the oil is getting everywhere, then see if she wants to start?

All helpful advice welcomed

Charles

chasbmw said:

Other issues are around the best way of starting a new to you bike, Iwould guess to change the oil, pour some into the rocker boxes to lubricate the valve train and then spend a long time kicking with plugs out to make sure that the oil is getting everywhere, then see if she wants to start?

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Yes to the oil change and pouring some oil into the rocker boxes, but no to kicking over with the plugs out.

Nike looking bike. As for the tank. There are a lot of threads here on tank sealing and repair. Results seem to vary. Jean did a good thread in which he cut the tank apart, coated the inside with an ethanol friendly resin and glued it all back together.

fixing-fiberglass-tank-t6227.html?hilit=repair

For all I know he might do another one for a price.

As for start up. Get yourself a manual or download one of the digital ones available in the tech section here. I keep one on my desktop of my computer as it is nice to have it to refer too. Follow the guidelines on checking or replacing fluids. Oil tank, primary transmission, forks, gearbox. Figure out if the sump has a lot of oil in it by draining it. I would go through the electrical connections and have a look to see what kind of shape they are in. The original connectors are prone to problems from barrels splitting. If the big rubber block connector under the tank is still there have a good look at it as you throw it away. I would probably take the switch cluster apart and ensure the kill switch is clean and functioning properly. Then once you get it started you can start learning about Amal carbs!

Were I looking for an alloy tank to replace a fiberglass tank, I would contact reputable panel beaters with a history of providing quality tanks and I would be prepared to spend what they ask. I think that trying to go cheap is a crap shoot and you might end up with a tank that needs more work than it is worth. Often the custom builders make their tanks to a quality that can be buffed and left bare. I have often wondered if they knew it was to be painted if you might not save a bit on the cost as in theory they could reduce some of their labor. I don't know if this is realistic as it has been pointed out often that they have a rep to protect. But I would still ask.

Good luck,

Russ

L.A.B. said:

chasbmw said:

Other issues are around the best way of starting a new to you bike, Iwould guess to change the oil, pour some into the rocker boxes to lubricate the valve train and then spend a long time kicking with plugs out to make sure that the oil is getting everywhere, then see if she wants to start?

Click to expand...

Yes to the oil change and pouring some oil into the rocker boxes, but no to kicking over with the plugs out.

Click to expand...

Why no to kicking the bike over with plugs out?

chasbmw said:

Why no to kicking the bike over with plugs out?

Click to expand...

Splash lubrication will be more effective once the engine is running (add a pint to the sump?), and oil will reach the rocker gear in only a few seconds as the oil supply is taken off the feed side of the pump and not the scavenge as it is with many other British bikes.

L.A.B. said:

chasbmw said:

Why no to kicking the bike over with plugs out?

Click to expand...

Splash lubrication will be more effective once the engine is running (add a pint to the sump?), and oil will reach the rocker gear in only a few seconds as the oil supply is taken off the feed side of the pump and not the scavenge as it is with many other British bikes.

Click to expand...

Thanks, at the moment I can see that the oil pump is working, just got to replace the oil lines first as they are cracking. An oil filter has been fitted, do you need to fill it with oil? Also there is an anti drain valve in the oil lines, just have to remember to fit it the right way round :roll:

chasbmw said:

An oil filter has been fitted, do you need to fill it with oil?

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If it's the standard type Commando spin-on filter in the scavenge return line, then there's no point bothering to fill it.

chasbmw said:

Also there is an anti drain valve in the oil lines

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:shock: Personally, I would never use an automatic anti drain valve, it's just not worth the risk.
http://www.nortonownersclub.org/support ... ain-valves

Others will obviously have different opinions on this subject.

L.A.B. said:

:shock: Personally, I would never use an automatic anti drain valve, it's just not worth the risk.
http://www.nortonownersclub.org/support ... ain-valves

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These notes are 15 years old! Today a very reliable automatic anti wet sump valve is available: http://www.hollandnortonworks.eu/img.ph ... G_4931.JPG

nortonspeed said:

L.A.B. said:

:shock: Personally, I would never use an automatic anti drain valve, it's just not worth the risk.
http://www.nortonownersclub.org/support ... ain-valves

Click to expand...

These notes are 15 years old! Today a very reliable automatic anti wet sump valve is available: http://www.hollandnortonworks.eu/img.ph ... G_4931.JPG

Click to expand...

Yeah, but what oil should he use in the bike? This thread has the makings of turning into a wet sump valve discussion.

drones76 said:

nortonspeed said:

L.A.B. said:

:shock: Personally, I would never use an automatic anti drain valve, it's just not worth the risk.
http://www.nortonownersclub.org/support ... ain-valves

Click to expand...

These notes are 15 years old! Today a very reliable automatic anti wet sump valve is available: http://www.hollandnortonworks.eu/img.ph ... G_4931.JPG

Click to expand...

Yeah, but what oil should he use in the bike? This thread has the makings of turning into a wet sump valve discussion.

Click to expand...

Or into a tyre discussion, or petrol tank sealant discussion, or........................ :wink:

Main thing is do not adjust primary chain to sensable tight when cold or may jerk bent shafts on one heating event. Start it up and hold over 2000 for some minuter or more to get full oil pressure flowing and protect cam lobe by surfing on oil. Check brake fluid often to make sure not blowing away unkown. Fiberglass tanks vunerbable to ethanol in fuel so maybe the end of that tank though can create new insides with the two part coatings. If you don't remember about Cdo Hinging onsets keep it in mind.

Thanks guys

Using Silkolene 50W oil

Going to use 90/90/19 and 100/90/19 Avon roadriders, I have used modern rubber in stockish sizes on my airheads with good results.

Taylor head steady + checking head bearings isolastics and swinging arm

Hopefully reduce the dreaded Cmmando hinge..........

That is a distressing sight, that red honey from the gas tank...

i've come to conclusion that 110 on both ends is my best combo for corner balance and front brake effect but the smaller tires will feel a bit better to lighten the sense it takes to fling a Commando around while trying not to over do into hinging onset, which usually hits around apex commitment point and getting awfully worse just after as letting off makes it worst and getting on it more makes it worse... Best safe practice to know what to expect is take a short ride on half aired tires. The head steady helps tamper down the small occillations that can build up off road and wind texture working from front backwards but it don't tame the real innate rebounds of the whole isolastic wonder, just increases the road speed and the freq. Hinge can hit. Start shopping now for next set of tires especially the rear as likely will have bald center in 2000 miles on only an inch wide contact. If I'm fairly careful not to torque up hard while upright only leaning mainly and not use engine drag to slow much then I can nurse about 4000 per rear. Fortunately Cdo are almost as fun a big twin bagger to lolly gag around short shifting.

Hi Chas.

I had a couple of tanks made for me by John Pearson. He was somewhere in the Dartford area of Kent. Brilliant work, great price but he can be a tricky guy to deal with. If he likes you, he's great, if he takes a dislike to you, forget it.
However that was at least 15 years ago so I don't know if he's still around.

My Commando race engine was originally built by a certain BMW specialist you know. So he's a good one to speak to of course.

You might want to give Burton's Bike Bits a call. They list a fiberglass Fastback tank that's 'resistant' to ethanol. I don't know exactly what that means and you still have to deal with the safety issue that fiberglass tanks don't dent in an accident, they can break.
You can check Evan Wilcox for an alloy tank. He doesn't list a Fastback tank but he can probably make one. What he does list is a lot of money but it's something you would always recoup on the sale of your bike. Just make sure you're insured for the $2000 replacement value of the tank

Andover was going to source alloy or steel tanks in the Old Country. Maybe that includes Fastbacks.


http://www.burtonbikebits.net/Tanks.htm

http://www.wilcoxmetal.com/

http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/

Thanks PJ, I did have in mind that Jim used to build and race Commandos,, i need to get mine running to assess its condition first. I'll see if I can find any contact with John Pearson. Charles

This is five years old but it's a start.

john

J Pearson
TEL: 01322 382472
23b High St, Swanscombe DA10 0AG