New to me. 1970 750 Roadster (2011)

The Dzus should only be on the right hand side ?.

I was under the impression the left side has a bolt. ( on the 1970 with centre tank, the hole in the LH side of my frame is not big enough for the Dzus, the RH is ).

Not correct, the left hand side cover is attached by a bolt, spacer and nut on a "69-70" the right sidecover is held by the dzus fastener, on a 69-70 the bike has a central oil tank, hope fully Dave [dogt] will chime in with the photo of the left side cover he provided for me when i was doing my "70".

That makes sense then. It had a bolt and oversized nut for the spacer when I got it. I got a replacement dzus fastener from Coventry Spares and it was too big for the hole. I wasn't going to modify the frame to make it fit, I just wasn't sure if I was trying to install it correctly. Thanks for the conformation on the bolt arrangment.

On mine, the left side was a bolt, nut and spacer.


and mounted like this


I have heard of bikes with Dzus fasteners on both sides, but am unclear if it was stock or not.

Here they both are, as you can see there is an extra hole on the left side, not sure what that was for.


Dave
69S

Thanks for the pictures. I just need to get a spacer for it now.

Just for information, you can see that the left side mounting strap also has holes for the Dzus spring, so it must have been used somehow? Unless it was just production runs were all the same.

Dave
69S

Looks like the question is already settled, but for what it is worth, my 1970 S had DZUS on right, bolt and spacer on left. I purchased the bike in 1974, I am the second owner, and I am 99.99 % sure this is original, as is most of the bike except for a lousy rear wheel the 1st owner laced incorrectly.

Ted,
Would you be willing to share your ID number and ID plate date, for my list? I have about 16 so far from the S's.

Welcome too.

And pictures, Swoosh will be dissapointed.

Dave
69S

Dave:

My frame is 134059, the numbers on the case just above the breather are 20M3S / 134059. I do not know where the ID plate is located. Depending on where it might be, I may be able to find it tonight, or maybe tommorow (bike is in an awkward spot behind my boat.)

I do not have good current pictures, but it is blue metal flake and once looked just like (your bike?) as pictured. When I purchased it for $850, I was a junior in high school, so it was 1974. It had apparently been ridden hard before I got it, because i know it had had new main bearings installed. Apparently, when put back together, the oil tank was not cleaned out so I had another partial rebuild to do right away. Since 1974, no engine work except a new alternator rotor and I put together a more robust full wave bridge rectifier. I also adapted a spin on oil filter, after which oil consumption was dramatically reduced.

Although I still have the S pipes and brackets, I fitted roadster pipes, since I liked them better back then (all the pictures in the magazines with the British Lassies had roadster pipes -- boy, was I dumb!! This is probably why I bought the bike in the first place)

I want to get her reconditioned by next Summer -- may move her into the basement for better winter access. I'll be posting some questions on this for a few problems I want to address.

Ted

ID plate should be on the headstock, right behind the headlamp shell. If it's there, there should be a date stamped on it as well as the number.

The Roadster pipes are much easier to manage. If anything comes loose on the S, the clamp between the silencer and header starts banging into the left panel and the iso nut. I had various systems on mine after the original headers cracked and I welded them up, but never held. When I restored it, went back to the S system. The dogleg bracket is subject to crack too.

Let me know if I can help with anything.

Dave
69S

I got a chance to run back and check my numbers and frame tag. No date of manufacture on the tag, but bike number is 136944. Trans matches also. Engine 20M3s/136944.

I wonder if it was replaced, you can get new unmarked ID plates. Here's my original, I bought a new one and had it engraved by the jewler for about $15, looks better than the stamps.



Dave
69S

Just got a package in the mail from another forum member, KSUWildcatFan. Thanks a bunch Jordan!!

She runs!

Congratulations, you must be stoked. How does the engine seem? Looks good, 69 - 70 commandos are my favourite. Please put that flat seat back on though, they look pretty cool. Nice splittie by the way, I have a '62 11 window.
Cheers, Ben

Great, yes, you should get the 69/70 seat, the one you have is a 71 or later. Then you need to get the real peashooters and the upswept pipes so it looks like a Roadster. Kinda looks like a early fastback silencer setup, but not really, I don't know what those pipes are. If that's the original gelcoat, it looks good.

I'm not being critical or anything.

Get yourself the 68/70 parts book, it will save you many hours of parts looking.

Keep us posted.

Dave
69S

The seat that came with it wouldn't fit right after I took off the backrest, I think the backrest was holding it on. I borrowed my dad's 74 roadster seat, I thought my highrider seat would look weird on it.

The mufflers are just some cheap Emgo universal ones to get me by for a bit. I will see about getting some corrrect ones sometimes.

The tank seems to be holding up to the fuel in it, I used a Caswells kits over the older exsisting liner in the tank.

I got some time to throw on the seat that came with the bike this morning. It appears that the 'mounting ears' have been modified maybe? I have only really seen 74 commando seats and they have an angled slot, not a straight up and down slot like this one. When the seat is installed, the ears don't fully seat into the washers/stud. Did someone possibly modify the pan or is this how they are supposed to mount?

That's the original setup for 68/70. Mine is just like that except the slot goes down more into the stud. When I have the seat on, the large washers under the knob cover up the whole slot. It may be the rear fender is holding it up. There should be 4 or 6 rubber bumpers on the bottom of the seat that contact the frame and 2 on the rear fender. If you have the panels off, you can look up under there and see if and how they are making contact. That seat pan bends real easy too.

Dave
69S

Hey congrads, that's really cool you got it running. If I remember correctly the 750's handle a bit quicker then my current 850, you'll love ridding it. I also think the older ones with drum brakes look great. I do think though I would be sending them to vintagebrake.com for a update so they work as good as possible. Any way enjoy!