New stator melted in 20 miles

Only speaking for myself, but I don’t connect gimmicks like heated clothing directly to battery terminals.

Mine connects to a cigar lighter socket that is only live when the ignition key is switched on.
 
Triton Thrasher said:
Only speaking for myself, but I don’t connect gimmicks like heated clothing directly to battery terminals.

Mine connects to a cigar lighter socket that is only live when the ignition key is switched on.
Click to expand...
I understand the logic, so not left on by accident to drain the battery. The good news with heated gear is it self disconnects if you forget, which is about 80% of the time 😜
 
Yes, need to make sure the socket is nicely cable tied to something solid (I use the frame), so you're never pulling on the battery connections!
 
JimNH said:
Are there any problems using the original power socket and, is there an available plug?
Click to expand...
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - ACCESSORY PLUG AND SOCKET (06.2099) - 06.2666

ACCESSORY PLUG AND SOCKET (06.2099)
andover-norton.co.uk

I always remove the socket from bikes I'm rebuilding. The socket/plug are polarized, but you can attempt to plug it in backwards and make contact. Depending on what you're trying to use it for, you can make a smokey mess. Also, even with the key off, the capacitor (if installed), Zener/Bridge or Rectifier are in parallel with it so it is a bad idea for fast charging although it will work for a trickle charge.
 
I've got polarized pigtails and I though of adding one but I just didn't want to add any extra wires since there's a socket existing. I've been on a campaign to remove superfluous wires left by removal of the assimulator.
 
concours said:
Please do publish observed voltages with various loads & RPM's
Click to expand...
So, after a 20 minute ride to ensure the battery fully charged I parked it at my shop and left it running with the headlight off while I retrieved a meter. Voltage 14.63 and steady, so the alternator was taking the ignition load at idle. I turned the lights on and watched as the voltage slowly decreased to 12.6 and remained steady and may have decreased more if I had the patience, so the alternator was still taking some of the load at idle. This corresponded the SparkBrite steady amber (looks pink to me) >12.45. I turned the headlight off and the voltage again climbed to 14.63. Increasing the RPM 2000-4000 RPM and the voltage regulated to....................14.63 steady. Back when I had the avionics shop we had a small carbon pile that I wish I had to apply a bigger load for a better test but so far this meets my expectations. Downside is the SH847's size but it fits near the bottom with a couple of 1" cushion clamps. The 775 is smaller but still probably wouldn't fit where I had the Podtronics box. I suppose if I'd removed the stock airbox and installed K&N rock screens there would be plenty of room but I like the stock box.
 
One more advantage I discovered: The Podtronics always had a slight parasitic draw so I got in the habit of pulling the main fuse every time I parked at home in case I didn't ride for quite a while. The SH847 has ZERO draw!

I often wondered if my RR was defective or if it was just the way it was until I noticed this gem from Grant Tiller's site written by

Jean Des Rosiers:​


Another interesting bit of information:

With a battery sitting at 13 volts, here is the current draw with the regulator connected:
  • Zener 0
  • Podtronics type 0.416 mA
This means the Podtronics type will drain the battery over time.

The Zener has zero draw since that is below its design voltage.
 
The only 12v electrical equipment that has a problem with +ve earth are those designed for -ve earth and the case is earthed. These need isolating so the case makes no contact and a wire connected to the case which is the -ve connection, then its a simple + to + and - to -.
 
kommando said:
The only 12v electrical equipment that has a problem with +ve earth are those designed for -ve earth and the case is earthed. These need isolating so the case makes no contact and a wire connected to the case which is the -ve connection, then its a simple + to + and - to -.
Click to expand...
Are you saying the Podtronics parasitic draw is through the case?
 
So I got curious and using a bench power supply and a milliamp meter I see 6.37 ma leakage through the Podtronics at 13.0 VDC.
 
JimNH said:
One more advantage I discovered: The Podtronics always had a slight parasitic draw so I got in the habit of pulling the main fuse every time I parked at home in case I didn't ride for quite a while. The SH847 has ZERO draw!

I often wondered if my RR was defective or if it was just the way it was until I noticed this gem from Grant Tiller's site written by

Jean Des Rosiers:​


Another interesting bit of information:

With a battery sitting at 13 volts, here is the current draw with the regulator connected:
  • Zener 0
  • Podtronics type 0.416 mA
This means the Podtronics type will drain the battery over time.

The Zener has zero draw since that is below its design voltage.
Click to expand...
See this:

marshg246

Thread 'Charging System Leakage Current'

I'm asked fairly often if the battery should be disconnected when a bike will sit for a while or while the battery is being charged or trickle charged. I always answer that I remove the fuse. This is because with standard wiring there is a direct connection to the rectifier/regulator whether it is the OEM bridge rectifier/Zener, a PODtronics, a Tri-Spark MOSFET, or any other I know about. This means that there is a very slight risk of something going bad and since there's a power source, a fire starting. Also, the battery is continuously being discharged by the charging system. Today...
  • Like

There are multiple models of Podtronics and there are no regulators I'm aware of that actually have zero draw. A Zener, like all diodes has a small leakage current.

At .5ma, it will take 2000 hours to draw 1 amp. A 9ah battery Lead Acid battery will be about half drained at about one year. AGM batteries work differently. At around 8.5 volts they are no longer able to supply current so about 9 months.

In reality, Lead Acid and AGM batteries will lose charge over time connected to nothing and that may be faster than the parasitic draw.

So, even with Podtronics, it's not a big deal if the battery is good and starts off fully charged.
 
Deets55 said:
If my math is correct a 17Ah battery will take 2,685.6 Hrs to discharge at 6.33 mA?
Click to expand...
Nit picking here but Peukerts Law is used to calculate a battery discharge time, it isn't just the amp hour rating divided the discharge current. But in essence the answer will be the same - a looong time.
 
JimNH said:
My old stator had one bad leg and although still charging enough I replaced it with a new another 47244 14.5 amp 3 phase. Used the same power box and Sparks rotor. I had .006 minimum clearance. I didn't think to rotate the engine and recheck but I don't think that was the problem. I was impressed the Spark Brite showed correct voltage (green) at idle and would keep it that way even with the halogen headlight on. I started dreaming of a heated vest in the fall.

20 miles into a ride it failed and I headed home. Nothing external noted so I pulled the primary and the stator was cooked. No obvious interference except melted stuff transferred to the rotor. I'm replacing both stator and rotor with new Lucas and am wondering if there's a better regulator to use.

Thoughts?

Thanks
Click to expand...

hello all stators should be set all way round at 8 thou not 6 thou that,s why you did some cooking
 
Back
Top