New stator melted in 20 miles

seattle##gs said:
According to CNW .010 at the tightest point is not a problem. He regularly turns down the rotor. I used to use a Dremel with a sanding roll to gain clearance off the stator but I found a better way. It's a woodworking tool called an OSCILLATING SPINDLE SANDER and does a beautiful and very quick job of it. I have it for fabricating reasons but it was only $100. I ALWAYS check stator clearance.
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Seattle,
I just looked at a picture of this sander you mention.Are you laying the stator on the table and then freehand it?
Thanks,
Mike
 
Stephen Hill said:
Turning the rotor undersize on a lathe to achieve adequate clearance is one solution to the problem. However, the true center of the rotor (the crank) frequently does not accurately line up with the true center of the stator (bolt circle of the mounting studs). IMHO, in this case you are better off focusing on the stator. You can remove material on the inside diameter of the stator in the area of inadequate clearance. Or oversize or slot the mounting holes in the stator. Or reduce the diameter of the mounting studs (as per Norman White). This is easily done with basic tools, and you are focusing on the source of the problem.
Click to expand...
I would not add slop in the stator or studs. A minor catastrophe would occur if the nuts loosened and the stator slid into the rotor. Just remove material off the stator tight spot.
 
So the new alternator arrived actually marked Wassel which is somewhat refreshing since Lucas hasn't made them for years. Rotor is the strongest magnet I've ever experienced as I could barely get the keepers off. I wanted a series or open RR and I couldn't find a SH775 so bought a SH847. It's way overkill as it's rated for 50 amps. It's big and I had to mount it on the down tubes. Stator was mounted with minimum .010 clearance.

There's enough evidence out there indicating that shunt regulators with high amperage stators and low demand causes stator overheating. My old stator had cooked wires and perimeter insulation all with signs of heat damage, little pieces in the bottom of the primary. I want the ability to use lots or little power depending upon the season. If I just wanted to power the bike and headlamp I would have simply used a 110 watt 3 phase and run the light all the time. My experience with the original setup was it wouldn't keep the battery up night riding in traffic. That, combined with the early Boyer propensity to fire randomly on low voltage as discovered by Dyno Dave, left me stranded with a locked sprag.

Here's a good discussion I found: https://granttiller.com/regulator-rectifier

Note that there's a mention of a bench test showing a stator, not Lucas, running 100 degrees cooler with a series RR.

And yes, shunt regulators do work, but not the way I want.
 
JimNH said:
Here's a good discussion I found: https://granttiller.com/regulator-rectifier

Note that there's a mention of a bench test showing a stator, not Lucas, running 100 degrees cooler with a series RR.

And yes, shunt regulators do work, but not the way I want.
Click to expand...
It looks to me that the tests in the link were done with a mains powered transformer as the AC supply, rather than a permanent magnet alternator.

Maybe I’m reading wrong.
 
JimNH said:
So the new alternator arrived actually marked Wassel which is somewhat refreshing since Lucas hasn't made them for years. Rotor is the strongest magnet I've ever experienced as I could barely get the keepers off. I wanted a series or open RR and I couldn't find a SH775 so bought a SH847. It's way overkill as it's rated for 50 amps. It's big and I had to mount it on the down tubes. Stator was mounted with minimum .010 clearance.

There's enough evidence out there indicating that shunt regulators with high amperage stators and low demand causes stator overheating. My old stator had cooked wires and perimeter insulation all with signs of heat damage, little pieces in the bottom of the primary. I want the ability to use lots or little power depending upon the season. If I just wanted to power the bike and headlamp I would have simply used a 110 watt 3 phase and run the light all the time. My experience with the original setup was it wouldn't keep the battery up night riding in traffic. That, combined with the early Boyer propensity to fire randomly on low voltage as discovered by Dyno Dave, left me stranded with a locked sprag.

Here's a good discussion I found: https://granttiller.com/regulator-rectifier

Note that there's a mention of a bench test showing a stator, not Lucas, running 100 degrees cooler with a series RR.

And yes, shunt regulators do work, but not the way I want.
Click to expand...
I have never had any problem with the single phase alt, bridge rectifier & zener keeping the battery topped up, and the bike doesn't turn a wheel without the headlight on (reference HURT report) I don't ask it to run the heated gear.

Please do publish observed voltages with various loads & RPM's
🏁
 
Last edited:
Triton Thrasher said:
It looks to me that the tests in the link were done with a mains powered transformer as the AC supply, rather than a permanent magnet alternator.

Maybe I’m reading wrong.
Click to expand...
You're absolutely correct! I copied the wrong link, it was another one I had read and I had multiple tabs open and then closed the browser. I can't find the one I referred to but, we have video!



Here's good discussion on MKIII electrics:
granttiller.com

Grant Tiller | Your Bike’s Charging System – Regulator/Rectifiers

*** UPDATED JAN 2021 *** Updated to include views and opinions on the newly launched Tri-Spark MOSFET reg/rec. Table of Contents This article is broken down into sections - you can skip to them by clicking below: Preface Goal More Power Back Then MK3 Commando Triumph T140E Lucas Powerbase...
granttiller.com granttiller.com

I did a quick 50 mile ride and I'm happy so far. Once the Sparkbrite voltage monitor goes green >13.2, it seemed to just stay there, even while at a stop sign or light while idling. That's not very scientific but it finally stopped raining and was in the mid 70s so I just wanted to ride. We have had the second rainiest May on record. My field still has standing water in spots.

Now I'll be looking for suggestions on heated vests/gloves/controller for autumn.
 
JimNH said:
You're absolutely correct! I copied the wrong link, it was another one I had read and I had multiple tabs open and then closed the browser. I can't find the one I referred to but, we have video!



Here's good discussion on MKIII electrics:
granttiller.com

Grant Tiller | Your Bike’s Charging System – Regulator/Rectifiers

*** UPDATED JAN 2021 *** Updated to include views and opinions on the newly launched Tri-Spark MOSFET reg/rec. Table of Contents This article is broken down into sections - you can skip to them by clicking below: Preface Goal More Power Back Then MK3 Commando Triumph T140E Lucas Powerbase...
granttiller.com granttiller.com

I did a quick 50 mile ride and I'm happy so far. Once the Sparkbrite voltage monitor goes green >13.2, it seemed to just stay there, even while at a stop sign or light while idling. That's not very scientific but it finally stopped raining and was in the mid 70s so I just wanted to ride. We have had the second rainiest May on record. My field still has standing water in spots.

Now I'll be looking for suggestions on heated vests/gloves/controller for autumn.
Click to expand...

www.warmnsafe.com

Warm & Safe Heated Clothing the Warmest Clothing in the Universe

The Warm & Safe Heated Clothing is made to be light, thin and body fitting. Not just for motorcycling but now with our advance 7.4V Heat Layer clothing, you can be warm in all situations. Our Heat-troller, heated clothing controller, you control the level of heat from nothing to 100%. Heat where...
www.warmnsafe.com
 
JimNH said:
You're absolutely correct! I copied the wrong link, it was another one I had read and I had multiple tabs open and then closed the browser. I can't find the one I referred to but, we have video!



Here's good discussion on MKIII electrics:
granttiller.com

Grant Tiller | Your Bike’s Charging System – Regulator/Rectifiers

*** UPDATED JAN 2021 *** Updated to include views and opinions on the newly launched Tri-Spark MOSFET reg/rec. Table of Contents This article is broken down into sections - you can skip to them by clicking below: Preface Goal More Power Back Then MK3 Commando Triumph T140E Lucas Powerbase...
granttiller.com granttiller.com

I did a quick 50 mile ride and I'm happy so far. Once the Sparkbrite voltage monitor goes green >13.2, it seemed to just stay there, even while at a stop sign or light while idling. That's not very scientific but it finally stopped raining and was in the mid 70s so I just wanted to ride. We have had the second rainiest May on record. My field still has standing water in spots.

Now I'll be looking for suggestions on heated vests/gloves/controller for autumn.
Click to expand...

Jim,
I have been using Gerbing vests and jacket liners for years with good results.They are run with an in-line controller which is in my tank bag. I also have a pair of FlyRacing 7V battery powered gloves that help but do not compare with heated grips that are a standard option on most new bikes. I should note that my cut off point is 50 degrees F.
WINTER can wait as I am allergic to cold!
Mike
 
Gerbing jacket liner, Warm&Safe heated shirt both using Warm and Safe Heat Troller control box and receivers. The Heat Troller box can control two different receivers without having to reprogram the box.
 
Speaking of heated gear, QUESTION: Are there any wiring changes that have to be made running heated gear on a positive ground (earth) Commando? A major reason why I haven't bought any. The other reason is that I generally do fine with long underwear, wool sweaters and layering. The Aerostich suit tends to keep the heat in
 
robs ss said:
It's absolutely freezing here tonight (2 days 'til winter) - 57 F (14 C)🥶🥶
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nortonmargie said:
Speaking of heated gear, QUESTION: Are there any wiring changes that have to be made running heated gear on a positive ground (earth) Commando? A major reason why I haven't bought any. The other reason is that I generally do fine with long underwear, wool sweaters and layering. The Aerostich suit tends to keep the heat in
Click to expand...
No.
 
nortonmargie said:
Speaking of heated gear, QUESTION: Are there any wiring changes that have to be made running heated gear on a positive ground (earth) Commando? A major reason why I haven't bought any. The other reason is that I generally do fine with long underwear, wool sweaters and layering. The Aerostich suit tends to keep the heat in
Click to expand...
Margie,
Like Mart has posted,just run a circuit directly to the battery.I run a 7amp fuse and it also lets me use my GPS with no problems.
Mike
 
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