New member, same old problems

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Wilco said:
arent the recommended adjustments for standard roadsters 6 and 8? and the timing is also different?

I have a new problem to add to my collection, a leaky fuel tank! The paint has been bubbling at various places, especially in the right rear corner, and yesterday I brushed off a paint flake only to find that was all that held the petrol in :O !
I fear my tank is slowly breaking down and requires some work in a few areas. Does anyone know a product or a process for lining the tank against leaks and protection from the new petrol?

Is it a fibreglass or steel tank? There are sealants you can coat the inside of the tank with but most are not good for grp, a forum search will come up the options, its been discussed a lot around here.
Personally I don't like the idea of these sealants and would use them as an absolute last resort, once the coating starts failing the fuel system gets contaminated. There are other repair options but they'll cost a lot more.
 
Its glass, but Ive been put in contact with someone who may be able to fix my tank, but still having no luck identifying the engine and getting the tuning issue sorted.

as an aside, has anyone here had problems with failing inspections due to the more than usual amount of rear wheel movement compared to other bikes, because of the isolastics?
I was told a yarn by a local guy who says he had one of the first commandos in the country, and was told by another mechanic at the time that his wheel was already buggered even though the bike was new. He then had to explain to said gentleman about the isolastic system which nobody was obviously familar with.
I have never had a problem in the past because ive always got my inspections done by bike guys, until now, the guy says to me "just too much play in the rear wheel, its some bearings to replace or something is it?"
ah well.
 
Best to try another inspector. funny, my wife tells me NZers are more intellegent than the average.
 
Search for "Caswell Tank Liner" . That is what folks on here recomend. I must do the same eventually. This is supposed to be best for the Fiberglass tanks.
 
The problem is cookie thatb our testing stations are full of imigrants so our brain drain continues {joke}
 
Maybe when we retire and I move over I can get a part time job in the testing station. I'm not sure if that would result in a net IQ gain or loss for New Zealand.
 
Caswells, properly applies should be great. Or at least better than anything else out there. Given the choice I'd use a metal tank on a road bike.
 
Try Caswell tank sealer, fantastic product. Check their website out. I would be happy to send you numerous pics of Nortons I have painted for customers in black, including solid red, metallic red, solid yellow, green metallic, red metalflake and blue metalflake. I paint bikes for a living (www.vintage-vendor.com) , including Jerry Doe's Interstate. Check my post under "Motorcycle Related", about the 4th one down titled "Quality Motorcycle Painting at Reasonable Prices." If interested, send me your e-mail address to brent@vintage-vendor.com
Thanks,
Brent Budgor
The Vintage Vendor
 
seaguy said:
Search for "Caswell Tank Liner" . That is what folks on here recommend. I must do the same eventually. This is supposed to be best for the Fiberglass tanks.

I had Caswell fail on my fiberglass tank. I had to replace it with one of those Pakistani reproduction steel tanks. I replaced my tank before this junk did any more damage.

I've seen this product fail on at least three other occasions over at Wes's shop - One was a '72 Interstate, which required rebuilding the carbs and a new steel tank (repro Interstate tanks are not cheap!), One was a '71 Roadster which required replacement of the tank and replacement of the carbs, and one was a Tiger which, while it had a steel tank, a PO had lined it with Caswell.

Each of these 4 failures had the same symptoms - the ethanol would soften the liner, and this liner would expand, bubble, crack and peel off the inside of the tank. The liner, when pieces were fished out, would look and feel like old latex. When left out to dry for a day or two, these pieces would harden back up. The three bikes that ran with this condition had another symptom. The dissolved liner would redeposit in the carburettors, intakes, and valves, leaving black droplets that looked like burnt plastic or sugar. On one of the bikes, these deposits caused the slide to stick in the body. The gas also turned cloudy when this stuff was in solution, almost like a Weissbier.

Mike Caswell said he would send me some extra strong sealer to redo the tank, but it never happened. The tank is occupying the top shelf in my garage.

My advice to anyone with a 'glass tank is to not put any ethanol-containing gas into it. I understand marine gas doesn't have ethanol, but haven't verified this. Another option would be low-grade racing fuel.

This ethanol situation isn't only damaging classic vehicles with 'glass tanks. Acerbis, who supplies tanks for Ducati, has also had warranty issues due to ethanol.
 
It wasn't with Caswell's but I also had one bike do the latex sheet trick. I looked in my tank and the top of the liner had come loose and was floating in there. I fished it out and look in there each time I fill up for more damage.
 
BillT said:
Mike Caswell said he would send me some extra strong sealer to redo the tank, but it never happened. The tank is occupying the top shelf in my garage.

My advice to anyone with a 'glass tank is to not put any ethanol-containing gas into it. I understand marine gas doesn't have ethanol, but haven't verified this. Another option would be low-grade racing fuel.

This ethanol situation isn't only damaging classic vehicles with 'glass tanks. Acerbis, who supplies tanks for Ducati, has also had warranty issues due to ethanol.

How long ago was this? I have a tank that was Caswelled and it doesn't soften. I wonder how much they've altered their compound over the years especially since ethanol content seems to be increasing.

Fiberglass boat gas tanks was one of the first areas where the dissolving issue came up. At least in Oregon there is an ongoing discussion on E10 for marine use. But it certainly appears that ethanol-free is not readily available in OR for marine use. This may be different for other states.
 
swooshdave said:
How long ago was this? I have a tank that was Caswelled and it doesn't soften. I wonder how much they've altered their compound over the years especially since ethanol content seems to be increasing.

Fiberglass boat gas tanks was one of the first areas where the dissolving issue came up. At least in Oregon there is an ongoing discussion on E10 for marine use. But it certainly appears that ethanol-free is not readily available in OR for marine use. This may be different for other states.

I bought my Caswell in March, 2008, applied it in April, and filled the tank in July. E-mailed Caswell back-and forth until September, and gave up. (New tank was on by August)
 
Oh my. Whats a Dude to do? What did you use to prep the glass tank before you applied the Caswell stuff? I've been rinsing my fiberglass tank with acetone and it looks clean and dry in there. I sure don't want to pay Caswell's price and wind up with a failure.

"In the case of alcohol fuels, allow 3-5 days at room temperature, or 24 hours at 120 deg f. " Found this statement on another site. It was from some Caswell instructions for using their Phenol novolac epoxy liner on a fiberglass tank. I see that you waited at least a week? Did you line the steel tank with anything? Many recomend doing that but it seems like the same clogging would occur. Kreem lets go too.
 
Oh dear.It seems my leaking tank is beyond mere sealing. The cracks are so widespread, only temporary repairs can be done. I've now got my eyes open for a replacement.
 
Wilco said:
Oh dear.It seems my leaking tank is beyond mere sealing. The cracks are so widespread, only temporary repairs can be done. I've now got my eyes open for a replacement.

Ive done the reseal the fiberglass tank so many times and finally just gave up and bought an alloy tank.
Wwhat the problem really is is that you cry (not you specifically but all who have gone through this) about your paint being ruined but where do you think the dissolved fiberglass is going - i opened my top end up after one of the intake valves stuck briefly on the freeway - the whole intake area was covered in some kinda hard shit (aka ethanol/ fiberglass gunk) - not sure if it was responsible for the valve sticking but it would explain it as the top end only had about 8K on it - i'll never use a fiberglass tank again.....
m
 
mikegray660 said:
Wilco said:
Oh dear.It seems my leaking tank is beyond mere sealing. The cracks are so widespread, only temporary repairs can be done. I've now got my eyes open for a replacement.

Ive done the reseal the fiberglass tank so many times and finally just gave up and bought an alloy tank.
Wwhat the problem really is is that you cry (not you specifically but all who have gone through this) about your paint being ruined but where do you think the dissolved fiberglass is going - i opened my top end up after one of the intake valves stuck briefly on the freeway - the whole intake area was covered in some kinda hard shit (aka ethanol/ fiberglass gunk) - not sure if it was responsible for the valve sticking but it would explain it as the top end only had about 8K on it - i'll never use a fiberglass tank again.....
m

If the gunk looked like black condensation droplets, this is the same thing a personally saw on the three bikes I posted about earlier.

seaguy said:
Oh my. Whats a Dude to do? What did you use to prep the glass tank before you applied the Caswell stuff? I've been rinsing my fiberglass tank with acetone and it looks clean and dry in there. I sure don't want to pay Caswell's price and wind up with a failure.

"In the case of alcohol fuels, allow 3-5 days at room temperature, or 24 hours at 120 deg f. " Found this statement on another site. It was from some Caswell instructions for using their Phenol novolac epoxy liner on a fiberglass tank. I see that you waited at least a week? Did you line the steel tank with anything? Many recomend doing that but it seems like the same clogging would occur. Kreem lets go too.

I followed the Caswell directions when I did mine. After thoroughly cleaning the tank with acetone, I filled it with a handful of screws and shook it up to scuff up the interior. Rinsed with acetone again and let it sit, open for a couple of days. I applied the caswell twice, carefully mixing each time. After a day or two, it was pretty hard, and I let it sit for about two months before painting, and another before filling with gas. This was with the latest Novolac epoxy, too.
Steel tank is unlined, except for some electrogalvanizing.
 
The gas tank on my project is fiberglass and I did a fair bit of work on it, changing the fuel filler for a flush mounted cap and moving the fuel petcocks were not in the right place for my application (see http://www.pbase.com/jeandr/cafe_racer for more pics). I have sealed it with ill Hirsch gas tank sealer http://www.hirschauto.com/ which is supposed to be alcohol and ethanol resistant. I have not put any gas in the tank yet, but I will choose the gas that did not eat my Fastback's tank (Esso in Canada) since I don't want to see my nice tank turned into a useless piece of $hit all the while gumming up the carbs.

Jean


New member, same old problems
 
Very nice tank setup Jean. As far as the tank liner issue goes I think that I will "T" the cross over pipe and add a drain valve. I'm not ready to spring for a steel tank yet.
 
BillT said:
I followed the Caswell directions when I did mine. After thoroughly cleaning the tank with acetone, I filled it with a handful of screws and shook it up to scuff up the interior. Rinsed with acetone again and let it sit, open for a couple of days. I applied the caswell twice, carefully mixing each time.

Does Caswells specifically mention anything about two coats?
 
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