New Member; new to me '74 Commando Mk??

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998cc

998cc

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Hello All.
Name here is Russ. I have been into britbikes since high school and currently have four bikes. About 20 years ago, in a moment of weakness, I sold my '71 Commando and have been looking for another one in recent years. Last week, I picked up a new-to-me '74 Commando.
It does not leak oil at all, and the engine appears to have never been apart. I believe it faded paint is original.

It runs very well but needs a few minor bits to make it fully fit for the road. My question: is it a Mk2, Mk2A, or? The engine number is 3087xx, and the tag date is 9-73.
I just need to know what I have here, and given the 9-73, is it a '73 or '74 Commando?

I am in this for the long haul, folks. I appreciate any knowledge and wisdom the group can share.

All the best,
Russ
 
Welcome back aboard a Norton good Sir!
I'm a complete newbie to vintage bikes, had a '74 850 since January. Mine is a MkII...from watching a series of videos from MiTy, you can see places where his Mk IIA differs....like the black plastic late model air box instead of the metal "ham-can" older type and swingarm seal welch plugs instead of end caps held in with a long skinny bolt like on my bike.

 
998cc said:
My question: is it a Mk2, Mk2A, or? The engine number is 3087xx, and the tag date is 9-73.
Click to expand...

As it appears to be a US model, 3087xx being a reasonably early Mk2/2A but is most likely to be a Mk2 with metal perforated airbox, battery installed in line with the frame, and 'peashooter' [Edit: or 'Interstate' long reverse cone] exhaust system as the Mk2A was a low noise emission model intended for sale on the European market (also Mk1A) however Mk2A models were eventually also sold in the US. As Tornado pointed out, the Mk2A had a black plastic airbox and 'bean can'/'black cap' mufflers (usually replaced by now) battery is installed across the frame plus a few other minor detals.


998cc said:
I just need to know what I have here, and given the 9-73, is it a '73 or '74 Commando?
Click to expand...

From the specification or parts ordering point of view it's (most likely) a Mk2, therefore, you need to use the Mk2/2A (from 307311) non-illustrated parts supplement along with the illustrated '73 parts book when ordering spares.

Mk2/2A supplement with Mk1 parts drawings included:
https://issuu.com/sealycycleservice/docs/norton-850mk2-2a_06-5988


For 'registration' etc. purposes you can consider a Mk2 (or Mk2A) to be '74.
 
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"It does not leak oil at all,"

No oil leaks? As the old saying goes, "If your [fill in the blank with appropriate old BrittBike name] isn't leaking oil, it's out of oil!" So check the oil! :)

But, of course, before checking it, you need to decide what oil to put in it! Good luck with THAT decision! :) :)

OK, I'm being a bit facetious but all in good fun. Welcome to the site. There's more info here about Nortons than you can possibly imagine. Some of it is actually pretty good.

OOPS...I'm being facetious again, dang it!

SERIOUSLY...the answer to any Norton question can be obtained on this site. I road and raced a '71 Commando back in the day and currently have owned my '73 since '06. It was my only bike between '06 and '14. Virtually everything I have done to it - from total rebuild to the minor odds/ends has been made much easier because of this site. Further, Ironically, parts for our old Nortons are easier to get now than they were when these were actually in production!

Again, Welcome!!!!!
 
L.A.B. said:
As it appears to be a US model, 3087xx being a reasonably early Mk2/2A but is most likely to be a Mk2 with metal perforated airbox, battery installed in line with the frame, and 'peashooter' exhaust system as the Mk2A was a low noise emission model intended for sale on the European market (also Mk1A) however Mk2A models were eventually also sold in the US. As Tornado pointed out, the Mk2A had a black plastic airbox and 'bean can'/'black cap' mufflers (usually replaced by now) battery is installed across the frame plus a few other minor detals.




From the specification or parts ordering point of view it's (most likely) a Mk2, therefore, you need to use the Mk2/2A (from 307311) non-illustrated parts supplement along with the illustrated '73 parts book when ordering spares.

Mk2/2A supplement with Mk1 parts drawings included:
https://issuu.com/sealycycleservice/docs/norton-850mk2-2a_06-5988


For 'registration' etc. purposes you can consider a Mk2 (or Mk2A) to be '74.
Click to expand...
Wow. Thanks L.A.B. Yes, the battery is inline with the frame. The air filter was changed out to an aftermarket item, but the rear cover is still in place--it is metal. So far, it looks like a Mk2. It does have the peashooters (though these may have been replacements) and balanced exhaust system. I definitely need a parts book and am keeping an eye out for a good one.

Thanks.
Russ
 
MexicoMike said:
"It does not leak oil at all,"

No oil leaks? As the old saying goes, "If your [fill in the blank with appropriate old BrittBike name] isn't leaking oil, it's out of oil!" So check the oil! :)

But, of course, before checking it, you need to decide what oil to put in it! Good luck with THAT decision! :) :)

OK, I'm being a bit facetious but all in good fun. Welcome to the site. There's more info here about Nortons than you can possibly imagine. Some of it is actually pretty good.

OOPS...I'm being facetious again, dang it!

SERIOUSLY...the answer to any Norton question can be obtained on this site. I road and raced a '71 Commando back in the day and currently have owned my '73 since '06. It was my only bike between '06 and '14. Virtually everything I have done to it - from total rebuild to the minor odds/ends has been made much easier because of this site. Further, Ironically, parts for our old Nortons are easier to get now than they were when these were actually in production!

Again, Welcome!!!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks MexicoMike.
My other bikes have leaked to the point that the garage floor is no longer concrete color!;) Given that, I am literally astonished that the Commando has yet to mark it's territory. The gearbox case has the color oil on it, but nothing beyond that.

Choosing oil? I read the sticky on oil last night. It is a dilemma that I won't get into here! :eek:

That good to know that parts for Nortons are getting easier to obtain. Same with my other britiron. That assures our bikes will be on the road for the foreseeable future.

I plan to leave this Commando as it is for the most part except for a new seat, exhaust and going with electronic ignition (any thoughts there?) Maintenance, of course.

Thanks for the Welcome!!

Best,
Russ
 
If the bike has never been apart, you should read up on layshaft bearings and be aware that you will be replacing it. Don't neglect to inspect the rubber block connector below the tank, and be prepared to throw it away and of course don't neglect to clean the kill switch!
 
As for a parts book, spend some time at www.oldbritts.com and at https://andover-norton.co.uk/. Both have extensive parts diagrams and you can do a lot of research as to which parts fit a number of different years by comparing. It is helpful as well when buying used parts to be able to verify if the part is likely to fit your bike.
 
Apologies for butting in, but 998cc 'read the sticky on oil last night' – I didn't know there was one! I've had a look around and tried searching, am I having a senior evening? :confused: Pointers please?! I'm following and have sponsored comnoz' oil testing, but I'd like a look at that sticky. TIA
 
Navigate to the Home page. It is the last section under Norton Commando Motorcycles.
 
Got it! I'd seen that before when it was linked in a post, but had no idea where it'd gone. Thank you!
 
rvich said:
If the bike has never been apart, you should read up on layshaft bearings and be aware that you will be replacing it.
Click to expand...

rvich, thanks for the note on the layshaft bearings. The current owner of my old '71 Commando wound up having to rebuild the entire transmission/gearbox. Is the issue with the bearings similar to Superblend vs non-Superblend,or are the bearings just not up to the task? Inherent design flaw with the box?

Maybe a new thread here, or should I search the forum for previous discussions of the topic?

Thanks.

998cc
 
998cc said:
rvich, thanks for the note on the layshaft bearings. The current owner of my old '71 Commando wound up having to rebuild the entire transmission/gearbox. Is the issue with the bearings similar to Superblend vs non-Superblend,or are the bearings just not up to the task? Inherent design flaw with the box?

Maybe a new thread here, or should I search the forum for previous discussions of the topic?

Thanks.

998cc
Click to expand...
https://www.accessnorton.com/search/3089819/?q=layshaft+bearings&o=relevance&c[node]=14
 
998cc said:
Thanks MexicoMike.

I plan to leave this Commando as it is for the most part except for a new seat, exhaust and going with electronic ignition (any thoughts there?) Maintenance, of course.


Best,
Russ
Click to expand...

My ignition thought is a recommendation for the Pazon Altair out of New Zealand. Reasonable price, immediate shipping, long warranty, proper advance curve, easy installation and static timing, idle stabilisation feature. Replaced my Boyer with this and cd not be happier.
Welcome, Russ!
 
Mr. Rick said:
Replaced my Boyer with this and cd not be happier.
Welcome, Russ!
Click to expand...
Thanks Mr. Rick. I'll look into Pazon units. Static timing ability is appealing.

By the way, the bike finally marked its territory in the garage--gearbox oil! Also, having a rear brake problem--starting a new thread.

998cc
 
998cc said:
I'll look into Pazon units. Static timing ability is appealing.
Click to expand...

Final check/adjustment is done with a strobe.

Pazon Sure-Fire:
http://www.pazon.com/files/PDF/PA2.pdf
"27. Start engine and run for 4-5 minutes to warm up. Using a white light
strobe, time the engine to the full advance mark (previously used in step
19) with the engine running up to 4000rpm."

Pazon Altair:
http://www.pazon.com/files/PDF/AL2-401.pdf
"The final timing can be checked and (if required) fine-tuned with a strobe timing light. This process will ensure that the timing has been set accurately, for best performance."
 
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