New guy, old bike

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Bernhard said:
Isn’t Blanchard grinding similar or the same as Plough grinding, also known as Lumsden grinding :?:

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Bla ... edIndex=63
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In fact, it is. I believe that Blanchard, like Kleenex, is a trademark name that has become so overused that it's accepted as the norm. btw those are some very cool pictures you found there!

Fowl3r, this is what the surface looks like that you're shooting for. This is my try at an improved front disc, if any of you were wondering. Now, if I can just figure out how to mount it to the hub... :wink:
New guy, old bike
 
Mark F said:
Can we see a pic of the BSA please. Sounds interesting.
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mschmitz57 said:
Yes, we need more (updated) pictures please.
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I should be able to get some this weekend, I am going to be cleaning up the bike. Ill snag a few of the BSA.
 
Nater_Potater said:
Fowl3r said:
New guy, old bike
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Your front disk looks like mine did. Believe it or not, these were chrome plated! Not only was it a lousy braking surface, but, once it begins to break through (like yours is doing to the rear of the axle in this picture), it'll return a nasty pulsing while trying to brake. You should consider having the disk blanchard ground down to virgin iron, and the wheel and master cylinder will need new seals at the least. As happens with a lot of these bikes, my master cylinder was pitted after sitting for twenty five years. You can either go the re-sleeve route or just replace it with an aftermarket. I went that route initially, but will be re-sleeving mine this winter for originality's sake. A good bit of background here: http://www.nocnsw.org.au/technical/comm ... linder-mod

Blanchard grinding can be hit-or-miss through the supply houses, so check around locally for someone in your area that regularly resurfaces flywheels. Make sure they understand exactly what means to have it Blanchard Ground (a lathe won't do). Also, search google + accessnorton + blanchard for more info to weed through.

Welcome to the crazy world of Norton!

Nathan
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Nater_Potater said:
Bernhard said:
Isn’t Blanchard grinding similar or the same as Plough grinding, also known as Lumsden grinding :?:

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Bla ... edIndex=63
Click to expand...

In fact, it is. I believe that Blanchard, like Kleenex, is a trademark name that has become so overused that it's accepted as the norm. btw those are some very cool pictures you found there!

Fowl3r, this is what the surface looks like that you're shooting for. This is my try at an improved front disc, if any of you were wondering. Now, if I can just figure out how to mount it to the hub... :wink:
New guy, old bike
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Thanks guys I will def look into that!!!

Thats a small rotor, I wont if it would fit on some hot wheels!
 
Didn't have much time to really clean the bike as I wanted to. So I just got most of the dust an dirt off of it. Popped open the gas tank for a nasty surprise. Not sure if you'll be able to see it in the picture or not. Luckily I'll remove this tank, get it cleaned out and see how bad it is. It looks like the gas wasn't drained like I originally thought. Also its still pretty wet inside the tank, so I'm hoping its not as bad as it looks. So back to the roadster tank for now. Just hoping the carbs are as bad as the tank. Also I have pictures of the BSA and Moto Guzzi, she's filthy too.

New guy, old bike


New guy, old bike


New guy, old bike


New guy, old bike


New guy, old bike


New guy, old bike


New guy, old bike


New guy, old bike


New guy, old bike


New guy, old bike
 
Take the tank to a local place that specializes in radiators if you want a cheap way to flush it out. Then you can do a vinegar flush and hopefully see what you're working with. At the price the originals are fetching, as long as it's even vaguely usable, it's probably worth a small fortune and you can put them money into the rest of the bikes! As for the carbs, if there's that much crud, don't open the drain valves in the bottom and instead just try to pull the bowls.
 
midnightlamp said:
Take the tank to a local place that specializes in radiators if you want a cheap way to flush it out. Then you can do a vinegar flush and hopefully see what you're working with. At the price the originals are fetching, as long as it's even vaguely usable, it's probably worth a small fortune and you can put them money into the rest of the bikes! As for the carbs, if there's that much crud, don't open the drain valves in the bottom and instead just try to pull the bowls.
Click to expand...

I have the stock roadster seat and tank, that I will swap out. What do you mean pull the bowls? Sorry I'm new to this.
 
Fowl3r said:
midnightlamp said:
Take the tank to a local place that specializes in radiators if you want a cheap way to flush it out. Then you can do a vinegar flush and hopefully see what you're working with. At the price the originals are fetching, as long as it's even vaguely usable, it's probably worth a small fortune and you can put them money into the rest of the bikes! As for the carbs, if there's that much crud, don't open the drain valves in the bottom and instead just try to pull the bowls.
Click to expand...

I have the stock roadster seat and tank, that I will swap out. What do you mean pull the bowls? Sorry I'm new to this.
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he means the float bowls on the carbs,take a look at the bushmans site for cleaning out the pilot jets on amal concentric carbs regards baz
 
baz said:
Fowl3r said:
midnightlamp said:
Take the tank to a local place that specializes in radiators if you want a cheap way to flush it out. Then you can do a vinegar flush and hopefully see what you're working with. At the price the originals are fetching, as long as it's even vaguely usable, it's probably worth a small fortune and you can put them money into the rest of the bikes! As for the carbs, if there's that much crud, don't open the drain valves in the bottom and instead just try to pull the bowls.
Click to expand...

I have the stock roadster seat and tank, that I will swap out. What do you mean pull the bowls? Sorry I'm new to this.
Click to expand...
he means the float bowls on the carbs,take a look at the bushmans site for cleaning out the pilot jets on amal concentric carbs regards baz
Click to expand...

Got it thanks!!
 
First let me say, Take your time. Don't rush anything and don't be in a hurry to get it started.

It looks like the rubber seal on the gas cap has disintegrated. Just take the tank off and empty it out, then carefully wash it out
with a good strong detergent and hot water. PineSol and hot water mix works well at cutting crud, just let it soak.
I've had great success cleaning / derusting steel tanks using a product called Evaporust. A gallon is around $25 at Harbor freight.
The stuff is non-toxic, it won't hurt that nice original paint job.

When you remove the gas tank, make sure to protect the tank up near the steering stem. It's a learned skill with these bikes.
They always have a tendency to get chipped when lifting the tank upwards and it hits the top yoke (don't ask).
Use lots of blue masking tape to protect it.

I'd be very leery about letting that nice original tank out of my sight and/or anywhere near a radiator shop + caustic chemicals
unless you want the paint F-ed up. That original Interstate tank is probably worth $800-$1000 minimum if it's anywhere as nice as it looks in the pics. Especially if you have the matching side covers.



That BSA looks awesome!
 
mschmitz57 said:
It looks like the rubber seal on the gas cap has disintegrated. Just take the tank off and empty it out, then carefully wash it out
with a good strong detergent and hot water. PineSol and hot water mix works well at cutting crud, just let it soak.
I've had great success cleaning / derusting steel tanks using a product called Evaporust. A gallon is around $25 at Harbor freight.
The stuff is non-toxic, it won't hurt that nice original paint job.

I'd be very leery about letting that nice original tank out of my sight and/or anywhere near a radiator shop + caustic chemicals
unless you want the paint F-ed up.

That BSA looks awesome!
Click to expand...


Thanks for the tip. I will give that a try. I didn't have much time this weekend to fully investigate how bad the tank is. I'm hoping it looks worse then it is, but unfortunately with rust that's usually never the case. Should I let the Evaporust sit in the tank over night? Also would it be safe to rub on other parts of the bike? Or does it not react well with chrome? I've used Naval Jelly and Steel wool in the past for chrome.

Thanks, the Norton caught my eye more than the BSA. Luckily on the BSA the gas was for sure drained out years ago. Probably just a few spiders hanging out in that tank.
 
No, the rusted parts need to be completely immersed in Evaporust overnight, or in this case the tank needs to have it inside.
That's a big tank, 5 gallons, and 1 gallon of Evaporust won't reach all the sides, so what I do is let it sit overnight upright,
usually on an old blanket to protect the finish, then I'll roll the tank on it's side and sit overnight.

The Evaporust works through a process called chelation, which causes the iron oxide to move from the steel to the liquid.
You can use this stuff over-and-over. I just derusted a Ducati tank and it worked like magic, but it took me a week or so to get
all the sides de-rusted. Also the tank might not be that rusty after you get it cleaned out with some detergent.

http://www.evaporust.com/faq.html

That BSA looks like new. The pipes don't show any signs of bluing. Amazing.
 
mschmitz57 said:
The rusted parts need to be completely immersed in Evaporust overnight, or in this case the tank needs to have it inside.
That's a big tank, 5 gallons, and 1 gallon of Evaporust won't reach all the sides, so what I do is let it sit overnight upright,
usually on an old blanket to protect the finish, then I'll roll the tank on it's side and sit overnight.

The Evaporust works through a process called chelation, which causes the iron oxide to move from the steel to the liquid.
You can use this stuff over-and-over. I just derusted a Ducati tank and it worked like magic, but it took me a week or so to get
all the sides de-rusted. Also the tank might not be that rusty after you get it cleaned out with some detergent.

http://www.evaporust.com/faq.html

That BSA looks like new. The pipes don't show any signs of bluing. Amazing.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. Its all minor rusting, I'm sure Naval Jelly or even a polishing brush on the Dremel will take it off. I have the stock roadster tank, that luckily was emptied and covered when the Interstate tank was put on. And it's RUST FREE!!! YAY!!! Haha. So I'll make the swap on the tank an seat. That way I can give the interstate tank the deserving cleanse.

Not too sure the story on the BSA, Gma said her brother in-law rode it once and really got on it, winded the motor too much. And after that my Grandfather felt like it was never the same. So once the he found the Norton, he just spent time trying to get the BSA right. So I'm not to sure whats going to happen with that.
 
When I get a new project bike that has a little surface rust, I usually begin by wiping all the chrome down with WD-40 on a soft rag.
It's basically just a light oil and Stoddard solvent, it won't hurt paint as long as you don't get carried away.
Many times the rust will bleed up to the surface through tiny pores in the chrome, but usually this can be removed with a little rubbing.

I try to stay away from anything too abrasive.

The BSA is a (racing) dirt bike with limited appeal beyond vintage events and bike shows.
It's not street legal as it sits. It would be fun to own and ride in the dirt (carefully).
Old dirt bikes lead hard lives and most did not survive as nicely as your G'ma's.
 
mschmitz57 said:
When I get a new project bike that has a little surface rust, I usually begin by wiping all the chrome down with WD-40 on a soft rag.
It's basically just a light oil and Stoddard solvent, it won't hurt paint as long as you don't get carried away.
Many times the rust will bleed up to the surface through tiny pores in the chrome, but usually this can be removed with a little rubbing.

I try to stay away from anything too abrasive.

The BSA is a (racing) dirt bike with limited appeal beyond vintage events and bike shows.
It's not street legal as it sits. It would be fun to own and ride in the dirt (carefully).
Old dirt bikes lead hard lives and most did not survive as nicely as your G'ma's.
Click to expand...

I will try the WD-40 first before I get into something stronger. Mainly on the handlebars I'm worry about, its a little thicker there.

I'm not sure if my Gpa took the BSA in the dirt. Ill have to ask the GMA.
 
Hold on with the steel wool. First, the fenders are not chromed; they're stainless steel. The turn signals are plastic, and of course the engine covers are aluminum as are the fork sliders. Wheel rims, head light and mounts, as well as fork tobes and exhaust are chrome.
I use a product called semi-chrome on the aluminum. I use a product called magic wadding on the stainless and chrome and even occasionally on the aluminum once it is already in good shape.
Cheers,
Cam
 
Commando Cam said:
Hold on with the steel wool. First, the fenders are not chromed; they're stainless steel. The turn signals are plastic, and of course the engine covers are aluminum as are the fork sliders. Wheel rims, head light and mounts, as well as fork tobes and exhaust are chrome.
I use a product called semi-chrome on the aluminum. I use a product called magic wadding on the stainless and chrome and even occasionally on the aluminum once it is already in good shape.
Cheers,
Cam
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Thank you, what about the handle bars? Are they stainless or chrome? Thats what has the most rust, that I'm worried about.
 
Commando Cam said:
Also, forget naval jelly try metal rescue or the evapor-rust that was mentioned in an earlier post.
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gortnipper said:
Have a read thru here - cleaning-chrome-with-aluminum-foil-t13557.html

I tried this recently and was amazed at how well it works, especially when followed up with some polishing cream. Highly recommended as a cheap n cheerful solution.

BTW - I have used semichrome, and it works great.
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Thanks guys!!
 
In addition to Phil at fair spares
You may want to look at hooking up with the local Norton Owners club....Northern California Norton Owner's Club

You will find a wealth of knowledge among some very nice member's there
You should be able to google/search for their site or can find it on the INOA (Intl Norton Owners Assc. ) link
 
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