New Guy looking for info

Hello I am new to this forum and Nortons. I have always liked the the bikes in general but I have no clue on some of the motors/ head combos. I am looking at building my own bike using a Norton frame but any ideas on which years engines, cyl. heads, treans are good and not so good as far as performance, reliability etc. would be great info. I guess am looking to start tcompiling parts and just want to know what head,engine, trans part numbers I should be looking for. Thanks

Here would be a good place to start http://atlanticgreen.com/norton.htm , lots of info on heads etc, transmissions are all variations on a theme on the AMC box and the differences are in the main related to the frame and engine combination its mounted with eg mounting lugs and mainshaft. Engines vary from 500 to 920 via 600,650.750 and 850, if you have a featherbed frame they will all fit but be prepared for bigger vibrations the bigger the engine unless you go the featherlastic route.

As a general rule of thumb, the later the manufacture date, the more reliable, sturdy and heavy the components are. Some parts can be mixed and matched-I believe transmissions from nearly all years are outwardly the same, but mixing components from different dispalcement engines (750 and 850, for example) does not work without major machine work due to different bolt circles and locations, bore sizes, etc. 850 cranckcases are stouter, but there are aftermarket cases that are even stronger. You'd be best off sticking with similar year units as availability is not an issue. I have heard of people using 750 heads on 850 barrels, but like re-angling intake valves, this involves welding up of old locations and re-machining and unless you're building a racebike, that's usually not cost effective.

Thanks for the info. I am large guy (215ish ) so I am going to swing for a 850. I am looking at really just looking to keeping original spec equipment maybe just a different cam and over boring.

Hi Daniel,

From experience, finding a good running 850 will be cheaper than buying a bunch of parts and trying to build to original spec. There are still plenty of Commandos out there. Sounds like you might want to find an 850 with a 920 kit. I think the days of building up a "core" bike cheaply are over.

Daniel,
1973 and later best bet for rideablilty.
The '73 750 is agood choice, or a '74 850.
If kick is your think the '75 850 mk III is another choice.
I'm 230lbs and my 72 750 will rip up the road all day.
It's different then riding your kid brothers metric 500 cc bike.
The torque and get up w/ a Norton twin is apples to oranges when comparing them to metrics.
Buying a rider for under $5,000 is a better bet then trying to build a mix master as you can easily
reach 7-10 grand in no time.
Marshal

Yea I worried about the build up cost. In a perfect world I would like to find a complete engine w/trans. I am really thinking of doing a rigid frame bobber style bike, I am a Mercedes tech so building shouldn't be to much of a issue, might have to but some English wrenches though. So the torque from a Norton engine is good, I had a 1100 Yamaha and was not overly impressed with power of that so a 850 might be a good change

If you like vibration a huge step from the refinement of a Mecedes I must add;
you may enjoy an Atlas 750. Solid mount guarenteed to rattle your fillings.
The bobber thing is cool but from guys who have done such the ride gets old fast and the unit sits, eventually
relegated to the last bike ridden of the stable mates.
Investment wise a nice atlas would bring about a better return later on then a custom.
Cutoms have less of an audience to sell to down the road.
Most of the classic Norton guys are middle aged and appreciate them for what they were.
Some of the forum riders have done some wild one off cafe bikes like Jean, and Jim C runs
the only fuel injected bike of its kind that I'm aware of.
But these guys are in an engineering league that exceeds most of our humble capabilities from inside
a simple garage.
Grandpaul has a neat Mono shock bike going into production, sort of picked up where Kenny Dreer left off with the VR880's.
Just a thought regarding a direction to go with your Norton experience.
What ever your choice is it's still a Norton Bro 8)
Marshal

Oh don't get me wrong if I had the money I would have a untouched Commando and a modified Cafe in my garage. This just a project I have been wanting to do for quite some time. I do give thanks to everyone for the info, should be a good starting point for looking for parts. Now if I just could find someone in Georgia that deals with Nortons

Not too many Norton "dealers" anymore Daniel. Not to worry. Parts are easily obtained, and information and advice are more available today (thanks to Al Gore....) than ever before.

I knew NOTHING about Nortons when I bought one. Still don't know much. But the workshop manual (available here: http://rocbo.lautre.net/technique/norto ... p/004.html) has a lot of information, and sites like this one and others (want overload? try Captain Norton's Notes: http://home.clara.net/captain.norton/page1.html) and MANY MANY OTHERS will answer all of your questions.

You will NOT ask a question here and have it go unanswered. Be assured.

Just don't ask what oil to put in your Norton, okay? :?

Welcome!

I have found a 73 (oif) Norton frame on Ebay. Item number 150445473975. Think this thing is worth a build or does anybody have something similar on the board they want to sale?

Daniel (Merc Tech) said:

I have found a 73 (oif) Norton frame on Ebay. Item number 150445473975. Think this thing is worth a build or does anybody have something similar on the board they want to sale?

Click to expand...

Starting from a bare frame and buy all the parts (new or used) is going to cost you so much more in terms of time and money that it won't even be funny. At the very least you are going to want a rolling basketcase (more or less complete).

Look at it this way.

You start with $300 (that one on ebay is not worth it) for a decent frame. Then you start buying parts as you get the money. Let's say you can afford $100/mo on Norton parts. After a year you might have an engine and gearbox parts and have spent $1200. You still have thousands and thousands of dollars to go in parts you are missing.

Or you can take that same year and find a roller for $1500 and be so far ahead.

Daniel (Merc Tech) said:

I have found a 73 (oif) Norton frame on Ebay.

Click to expand...

Commandos were never oif (oil-in-frame). You're thinking '70s Triumph.

I'm still not over the power and speed attained by Ms Peel's initial
accidental configuration for '04 break in while waiting on Combat
head upgrade. Took it easy for 1000 miles then finally tested her.
OMG! Only 900's and above could out sprint her above 100 mph
and Peel could match 600's top end ~135.
Everything I did afterwords following standard wisdom's
subtracted from performance. Ugh.

750's have more responsive fork stem angle than 850's.
I've compared on and off road, though a good rider
on good 850 is very tough to hang with let alone
pass in curvy roads. My SV650 barely has enough power
and handling to keep even a factory 850 in sight.
You'll want to put in the taller 850 2nd gear set.

Combat engine, 10:1 CR, 2S cam, old drag racers preferred
750 cases d/t their flexy cases for higher rpm tolerance.
Cap Norton site has racer history to review this.

5 lb lighter steel flywheel. Factory cast iron is a grenade
waiting to explode even on idle in some bikes.

Small 28mm port head, big bore 2 > 1 headers into Dunstall
megaphone with end baffle replaced with blind end cap with
1 3/4-2" hole shot gunned flared . Petted tummy at
idle and cruise yet hurt ears on hi throttled blue jet torch.

34 mm single carb would out perform dual 32mm Amals
but for their faster response up to mid range.
I prefer dual Amals for all but full out top end speed.

*** Created lip-sharp step right at manifold head seam.
I accidentally discovered this by crude ragged cut
temporary gasket just for easy run in use. Left ~1/16"
jagged intruding gasket. When I replaced with proper
gasket the response decrease was disappointing and
confusing at first. No other feed back to know if
anyone else ever experienced this phenomena or
if will work other than in Peel unusual set up.

Point ignition was best, but switched to Analog Boyer d/t
adv. mech. screwing with stable idle. Boyer Knocked
some edge off throttle response, but a bit more
throttle over came that sense of delay.

Lighten up everything you can as each lb off is worht
a few horse power increase. Lightness can cost as
much as engine features in efforts or money.

I literally had to grip tight and set butt back before
blip ups or bike would run out from under me!
Only other bike like that, though more so - was
my P!! dragster, which left me in mid '70's but
instilled my awe for Norton twins.

Was often trying to up shift climbing hwy steeps too fast
on such light throttle was surprised no more gears up.

Its was so Good, only reason I'm putting in bigger
power is to take the sport bike spanking games
up over 150.
A Commando can tolerate more leaping power before
limiting wheelie than about any modern.
Especially when leaning.

Of course all this ignores innate handling limits
that all the mods I've tired - but one-, only moderately
increased the speed and suddenness of hinged onsets.

hobot

Anglophile said:

Daniel (Merc Tech) said:

I have found a 73 (oif) Norton frame on Ebay.

Click to expand...

Commandos were never oif (oil-in-frame). You're thinking '70s Triumph.

Click to expand...

Nevertheless there are Commando frames out there that have been modified as such...Kenny Dreer fashion.

Thanks for the info, I had doubts about the frame on ebay, I knew Triumphs had (oif) frames but my lack of knowledge with Nortons is why I asked you all. A rolling basket case would be prime, just harder to find it seems. Time and money are not the main concerns as is making what I have planned out in my mind is. I mean I am changing directions from a Mercedes straight six turbo project to this, money pit to money pit the Mercedes wins hands down.