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- Jun 30, 2012
- Messages
- 13,886
When you are tuning your carbs, first make sure your ignition timing is correct for the fuel octane ration and do not change it. You jet to suit the timing and comp. ratio.. Fit main jets which you know to be too rich. Then start the bike. If it runs cleanly and does not cough or spit back through the carbs, your jetting is in the ball park. Take the slides out and put the needles on the clips in the top grooves. If the motor does not cough when you ride the bike, your needle jets are too large. With the right size needle jets, you should be able to progressively lower them until you induce the cough. When you get it- raise the needles one notch. You should only use plug colour when setting the main jets. If you look at the porcelain, right down inside the plug. There should be a about 2mm black ring there after you have ridden the bike flat out for at least a mile. If you use a hotter plug for tuning, you should stay safe. The heat range of the plug determines how fast the soot burns off the porcelain.
If you want more performance, use slower taper needles, but your tuning might become more weather-dependent. When you tune a motorcycle, cause and effect are by interaction of several variables - not just two.. You need to recognise the pattern, if you want to optimise performance.
The exhaust system can easily take a thousand revs of the top of the usable rev-range, if you only change one thing.
If you want more performance, use slower taper needles, but your tuning might become more weather-dependent. When you tune a motorcycle, cause and effect are by interaction of several variables - not just two.. You need to recognise the pattern, if you want to optimise performance.
The exhaust system can easily take a thousand revs of the top of the usable rev-range, if you only change one thing.