Need Source For Rotor Turning
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Paul I love your picking out the real issues hidden in Peels hay seed engineered features. Yep the big Lockheed puck extends beyond the notched rim of floating 220 mm wave rotor by almost 1/6 the pad OD. So two issues, one the difference in speed heat and grip of inside to outside of pad/rotor contact - And as pad wears down the notches of rotor will scrap the pad wear lip. May not have to relieve the pad just let nature take its course.
BTW there is another in your face major change feature in photo no one has mentioned yet. I want most experts to just glance over thinking they understand everything until reality pointed out.
The hope is both the lightened wheel and bike mass and my fine tuned lever control will nullify any issues. My fine tuned lever control has two completely different calibrations spinal reflex bone memory programed in. One for pavement another for THE Gravel. Only THE Gravel reflexes are effective at speeds Peel does tarmac corners. So most the concerns of racers and braking has about no application on Peels real needs. One feature of this now involuntary reflex lope is the feeling of grabbing a red hot bar on first impression of hazard.
Instant cold one time panic braking or very light feathering is all I require.
Here's s blunt conclusion on how much a rear rod link transforms my Commando.
If any craft needs brake application while in even slight turning state then its off my list to even consider as corner competition. Simple image to keep in mind, imagine going in real hot on a Gravel covered sweeper and applying front brake while leaned and pointing tire to outside of turn counter steering. There is one use of brakes in turns on any bike that's worth while to learn, to help trip down or fling up saves or twist around Cog, but nothing to do with bleeding speed.
haha hehe HO-HObotl
BTW there is another in your face major change feature in photo no one has mentioned yet. I want most experts to just glance over thinking they understand everything until reality pointed out.
The hope is both the lightened wheel and bike mass and my fine tuned lever control will nullify any issues. My fine tuned lever control has two completely different calibrations spinal reflex bone memory programed in. One for pavement another for THE Gravel. Only THE Gravel reflexes are effective at speeds Peel does tarmac corners. So most the concerns of racers and braking has about no application on Peels real needs. One feature of this now involuntary reflex lope is the feeling of grabbing a red hot bar on first impression of hazard.
Instant cold one time panic braking or very light feathering is all I require.
Here's s blunt conclusion on how much a rear rod link transforms my Commando.
If any craft needs brake application while in even slight turning state then its off my list to even consider as corner competition. Simple image to keep in mind, imagine going in real hot on a Gravel covered sweeper and applying front brake while leaned and pointing tire to outside of turn counter steering. There is one use of brakes in turns on any bike that's worth while to learn, to help trip down or fling up saves or twist around Cog, but nothing to do with bleeding speed.
haha hehe HO-HObotl
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keith 1069 wrote;
Keith, did you get your disc milled in the UK or do you know somebody trustworthy that can do this work in the UK.
I would send my old disc to OldBritts for them to do the work, but the trans-Atlantic postage and customs duty makes it very very expensive.
I have had a failure for the second time of a Norvil (rear) lightweight disc, and I am going back to cast iron, as I can't afford to keep posting things back to Norvil and paying out for new discs / bobbins etc that go on to fail again at low milage, and all the grief that goes with it.
Keith, did you get your disc milled in the UK or do you know somebody trustworthy that can do this work in the UK.
I would send my old disc to OldBritts for them to do the work, but the trans-Atlantic postage and customs duty makes it very very expensive.
I have had a failure for the second time of a Norvil (rear) lightweight disc, and I am going back to cast iron, as I can't afford to keep posting things back to Norvil and paying out for new discs / bobbins etc that go on to fail again at low milage, and all the grief that goes with it.
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Keith1069 said:
So let's get his name right - Gerry Bristow: http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/oil030319.html
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Sorry brain blanked. Gerry Bristow was life of Brit Iron list and final work on most oil threads. He gave me his experimental rub pad head steady which has witness marks of the power unit motion at that point. He'd do flying leaps off cresting turns in special places in Greece on his 850. He almost had to give up riding and have knee replacement surgery. But I showed him how to stretch his neck and knee resolved and allowed him to ride and travel to USA in '04 for us new world newbie to meet him. He was going to install Peels rotor when he got back home but never made it. I was so set back at news I never contacted his wife to buy back the unneeded rotor. Gerry and too many others vanishing naturally or by crashes is one reason I'm a bit insane sounding and acting - what's it matter in the end so living it up now.
Been away for a week in Spain, what a lot of threads to catch up on!
Reggie, I did this myself. Small holes are 7mm, large are 7/16". 4 rows of 20 small with centres 3/8" in from outer and inner face of pad area. Two rows of 10 for large. With a 350w B&D and a simple pillar attachment you can do this in about 4 hrs, working up from 3mm in 2-3 stages. I blued the area and carefully marked out the outer and inners, then aligned an outer with the next inner along and marked along that line for two middle rows. Similar for large holes. Small holes were radiused with a 10mm bit and the large with a 25mm ball stone. It's the kind of job you'd do when the weather is crap and are really bored! I had no issues with hardness of the disc and you'd be surprised how easily a decently sharp bit cuts through. I wouldn't try it without a pillar drill or attachment though, that would be silly.
Big_Jim59
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FYI to this thread. I got a note from Ella at OldBrits. She is returning my disk with this note:
She writes: We are no longer doing Blanchard grinding on rotors. We just put the note on our website a couple weeks ago after we finished the last batch of them. The machine shop that does this for us was asking for three minimum for Blanchard grinding, now they are asking for five. The last batch of three we got took almost three months to collect. In the past it was easy to collect three+ rotors, especially this time of year, but things have slowed down the last couple of years.
They still sell drilled rotors. They just don't grind customer rotors. So, once again does anyone have a good source for disk grinding/resurfacing?
She writes: We are no longer doing Blanchard grinding on rotors. We just put the note on our website a couple weeks ago after we finished the last batch of them. The machine shop that does this for us was asking for three minimum for Blanchard grinding, now they are asking for five. The last batch of three we got took almost three months to collect. In the past it was easy to collect three+ rotors, especially this time of year, but things have slowed down the last couple of years.
They still sell drilled rotors. They just don't grind customer rotors. So, once again does anyone have a good source for disk grinding/resurfacing?
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Big_Jim59 said:
I think you'll be fine. I talked to Gary at DBR and he was very helpful. As soon as I can I'll send my disk to him. And he seems to be highly regarded. You'll be in excellent hands.
Big_Jim59
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swooshdave said:
Thanks. I'll call Gary tomorrow and as soon as my disk shows up, I get it sent right off to DBR. I sure am putting the miles on my disk if not my Norton! My winter repairs are stretching out and around here, good riding days start happening more and more frequently. It was beautiful today. Temps were in the low 70s, not a cloud in the sky and The Beast is missing his front wheel. Oh well.
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Big_Jim59 said:
Even if my bike was ready you can't really ride around here for 4 more months. So you won't get my sympathy. :mrgreen:
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keith1079 wrote;
Keith, I have now drilled my standard disc on my drill press, in a similar pattern to the pattern that Oldbritts show on their site.
I got some good quality bits, one was 22mm (i think) and the other was 7mm (cost about £30), spent a lot of time marking out the pattern, and my degree wheel came in very useful here, and I was suprised how easy it is to drill cast iron. It just took me about three hours.
So Keith, thanks for encouraging me. I quite enjoyed doing it.
Keith, I have now drilled my standard disc on my drill press, in a similar pattern to the pattern that Oldbritts show on their site.
I got some good quality bits, one was 22mm (i think) and the other was 7mm (cost about £30), spent a lot of time marking out the pattern, and my degree wheel came in very useful here, and I was suprised how easy it is to drill cast iron. It just took me about three hours.
So Keith, thanks for encouraging me. I quite enjoyed doing it.
Took me 4 hours for 120 holes! Yes, I was surprised how easy it was to drill once the hard skin was broken. I did do it in easy steps with 3, 5 and 7mm and then 9, 10 and 13 for the large holes. Didn't blunt any bits either. I put big chamfers on all except the large as I'd run out of drill size. Well done, quite satisfying really. You'll now wonder what the 'shishing' noise is when you brake!
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