My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Whatever it takes is the proper way to torque a front axle. As long as you aren't pinching the forks together out of alignment it doesn't matter what you put through that hole in the axle to keep it steady. I've never done it like you did, but it looks fine to me. Consider the source though. I don't color inside the lines much.
It bent my screwdriver :(

You are getting close to having to start it.

Yeah, it's getting close. I have a bunch of odds and ends to tie up, but my last major hurdle is the gas tank. I had a looksee inside with a boroscope

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


Seems somebody before me sealed it and didn't do a good job at that. I think most of the peeling is near the filler cap. Looking down the tank

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


Unfortunately, i can't get a good view on the other half. My plan is to scrape out the peeling parts as best i can, then pressure wash it, then fill it and go. Will have to check my fuel filters regularly
 
I use a long drift the diameter of the hole in the axle, but on smaller off road bikes I've use #3 or larger phillips screw drivers in the past. That said I probably didn't use that much torque. I don't think I have ever used a torque wrench on a wheel axle nut. Haven't had one fall out yet. lol

Looks like it might be Kreem in the tank. I've had Kreem in my tank for over 30 years. I coated it twice. It is supposed to cause the earth to go off its axis according to the gloom and doom crowd here, but it is still holding.

I would not scrape on the interior of the tank myself. Talk to Greg about how he would approach the inside of the tank. I know less than nothing about it. You could search here as well, but that might just cause confusion. ;)
 
Last edited:
You're worrying me. You should need nothing but a screwdriver and one or two fingers. Makes me think you have something missing.
i lubed the spindle end, because stainless :cool:

No worries, i got it torqued to spec
 
It bent my screwdriver :(



Yeah, it's getting close. I have a bunch of odds and ends to tie up, but my last major hurdle is the gas tank. I had a looksee inside with a boroscope

View attachment 99258

View attachment 99259

Seems somebody before me sealed it and didn't do a good job at that. I think most of the peeling is near the filler cap. Looking down the tank

View attachment 99260

Unfortunately, i can't get a good view on the other half. My plan is to scrape out the peeling parts as best i can, then pressure wash it, then fill it and go. Will have to check my fuel filters regularly
Saw this yesterday:

Not sure what sealer you have but might be worth a watch.

I haven't tried but I think my good camera might fit through the petcock holes. I know my crappy one will.

It's only money- I've got new tanks and a painter :D
 
Thanks, but 2 problems. 1, i'd like to try to save the original tank paint if i can. It might not be salvageable though. 2, getting paint remover. I have about a half quart left from back in the good ole days, but probably not enough. And 3, will it make more of a mess inside than just leaving it alone? If the paint can't be saved, then i'll probably dip the whole thing
 
Last edited:
Thought i could use a rear "Norton Commando" Venhill in-line brake switch. Guess not :(

IMG_1521sm.jpg
 
Thought i could use a rear "Norton Commando" Venhill in-line brake switch. Guess not :(

It looks like that's the one for rearsets...
"1968-73 750 COMMANDO MODELS
1973-ON 850 COMMANDO MODELS
FITTED WITH REAR SET FOOTRESTS (Heavy duty cable including stop light switch)"

...so needed to be longer.

"Do you require additional length?"
 
What Greg said.

Different Norton, but I've busted a few switches, and gave up. I ride without a rear brake switch. I used to use a lot of rear brake when I had a weak front brake. Fixed the front brake issue and hardly ever touch the rear brake on the surfaced road. My front brake has a switch. My tail lamp is bright, or I've just been lucky and not been rear ended yet with just the front brake switch.

Only way an inline switch seems to work is if the rear brake is just about dragging when lever/pedal is all the way up. If the brake lever/pedal has too much throw before the brake starts to work, pop goes the plastic housed switch. I guess that is painfully obvious. Is there another solution for a Commando rear drum switch?
 
It looks like that's the one for rearsets...
"1968-73 750 COMMANDO MODELS
1973-ON 850 COMMANDO MODELS
FITTED WITH REAR SET FOOTRESTS (Heavy duty cable including stop light switch)"

...so needed to be longer.

"Do you require additional length?"
Believe this is the one i got. It's too long, but the real problem is the switch. It doesn't fit right in any configuration.


It seems in-line rear brake switches are worse than the crappy repros. I guess i'll refurb my original or look into fitting a microswitch
 
What Greg said.

Different Norton, but I've busted a few switches, and gave up. I ride without a rear brake switch. I used to use a lot of rear brake when I had a weak front brake. Fixed the front brake issue and hardly ever touch the rear brake on the surfaced road. My front brake has a switch. My tail lamp is bright, or I've just been lucky and not been rear ended yet with just the front brake switch.

Only way an inline switch seems to work is if the rear brake is just about dragging when lever/pedal is all the way up. If the brake lever/pedal has too much throw before the brake starts to work, pop goes the plastic housed switch. I guess that is painfully obvious. Is there another solution for a Commando rear drum switch?

Good point. I mean how often are you on the rears and not the front? Maybe for a split second

I think i'll wire it up and if it doesn't work, oh well. It also may give me the excuse to cut off the horrid switch mount
 
Good point. I mean how often are you on the rears and not the front? Maybe for a split second

I think i'll wire it up and if it doesn't work, oh well. It also may give me the excuse to cut off the horrid switch mount
OK if antique plates - no inspection, won't pass inspection without a rear brake light.
 
I have the stock cable
Next time you come over bring it and I'll show you what I mean - looks like it can work but I haven't tried it. The inline front brake switches I have won't fit the cable.
 
I'm going to go ahead and install a switch, more for redundancy than for stupid government rules.

New switch is on the left, original on the right. It's nearly identical but is slightly less robust all around (switch plunger, contact metal gauge, springs, etc). Since the original is broken, i'll give the repro a shot. If it fails, i'll fab up a micro switch (I hate fabricating :) )

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
Fabbed up an oil line. This allowed me to use a double banjo on the timing side as well as insulating all the hose. It wasn't hard, but i learned the hard way the the line does not flex in rotation. This means you have to get the banjos in the correct alignment. I over tightened the drive side banjo so it was out of alignment by 180 deg. and you can't back it off. Luckily i had enough hose i could redo it.

IMG_1591sm.jpg


Oh, and that double banjo, ouch

 
Do you know which companies stock the goodridge kit ? , I quite like the double banjo .
 
I believe most kits have a separate line that goes across the engine, that means two banjos on the timing side. That's why i made mine. You should be able to readily get the standard banjos and line from most speed shops. It's -3AN, 3/8", 10mm brake hose. I sourced the banjo bolts from RGM. The thread is some wacky British TPI. Not sure where you could get the double banjo in Australia, but somebody probably sells it. It ain't cheap. I paid $70 USD for that one fitting.
 
Back
Top