My O Ring!

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B-Stone

Joined
Jul 5, 2008
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Hey guys

Am trying to get a new felt ring into the primary case and am losing my hair.

Any tricks/suggestions?

Thanks
 
Dip it in oil. Squish to fit. It will rebound and and you won't forget about oiling it prior to assembly since its already oiled.
 
I use water to moosh it in then let dry figuring that much more
unsaturated fiber reserves to absorb oil before drooling.
Part of the maturing process Commandos provide.

hobot
 
I soaked it in eng oil; squished it in a vice and then worked it into the fitting without much trouble.
 
pelican said:
What part are you guys talking about?
Click to expand...

My O Ring!

I think the sliding one around the gearbox mainshaft. Not an o-ring at all.
 
There is supposed to be a felt seal held by two thin discs that
straddle the primary case thickness where the main shaft enters
the case.
Can't be seen in the above either because its been removed from
the slide-able-shif-table seal disc or its so old oil soaked it absorbs
all light. Its got to shift-slide to adapt to gearbox-chain adjusting.

Once wet its not too bad a job. Old one if there can get
about glued in. Seal disc should not shift w/o some resistance.

hobot
 
I have soaked it and its still a royal bitch. I am wondering if I got the right replacement as the felt ring I got is really thick compared to the space its supposed to go in to...

Thanks for the tips though!

B-Stone
 
Oh my yes, Commandos are a testing hobby.
I've gotten mine renewed, others have too, maybe press in
between plates in a vise and see it you can earn your keep : )

If you have not thrown stuff, slammed bike and run screaming
like a child in a tantrum out of the work space into darkness,
then not yet fully involved.

hobot
 
Am going out to the vice!

I must be real involved as I am sure all my neighbours in a 4 house radius have heard my tantrums!!

Thanks
 
Others will scream, but...

I ground out the spotwelds, and instead installed using the tiniest little bolts and nuts you've ever seen, with loctite.

Been a couple thousand miles since, no issues.

Recommended by Sir Matt Rambow himself, can't take credit for meself.

YMMV.
 
A big part of lists like this for me is to read stories of and see
examples of success.
Personally I just like to ride the snot out of Commands but
can't afford a new one or a real mechanic.

IIRC i used needle nose and dental picks plus fingers.
I'd compressed it in vise then worried I'd take all its sealing
fluff out.

hobot
 
I used a thin blade screwdriver to poke it into it's slot. Slow going, it was. Fortunately they only need changing every twenty years or so.
 
A pick, a small screwdriver, and patience. Not a job to do when you're pressed for time or upset about something.

One advantage of going to a belt drive is that you can do away with that seal. Just drill out the spot welds, remove the plates, and add them to your useless spare parts box. I have not done that yet, still running the chain in both bikes.

Debby
 
Amen to the dry belt drives, especially un-vented, or
at least some what air filtered vented. Vendors and
un-vented users find no heat issue detectable.
Grit in belt drive is 2nd only to miss-alignment to tear belt up.
Abrades belt edges then rest unravels.

Belt drive could still benefit by felt seal to keep weather
and road grime-grit out.

Those installing a Maney out rigger bearing have to hog out
a huge slot top to bottom of case back side. Once belt tension
set gearbox don't need to move so seal can be fixed too.
I ride in Grit, so made Peels seal pretty good back there.

hobot
 
If you had to, you could just drill out the spot welds and pop rivet it back to gether with the new felf in place. You probably are done with it by now.
 
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