My new Norton

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MikeG

Mikeg
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Been lurking on this site for a few weeks trying to gaining insight into what I was thinking of going through, and finally made the leap. I bought a 71 Commando over the weekend. A strong runner but a little rough around the edges. I've had BSA's and Triumphs for years but finally made the leap to isolastics. Wish me luck, and expect lots of stupid questions in the near future.
MikeG
 
Mike, congratulations!

My first Commando was a 1971 bought new at age 21 !

I love the look of the drum brake on your model.

You can take your time sorting things out and making it pretty!

have fun Mike!
 
Thanks, and the first question since you brought it up. How does the Norton drum brake compare to the disc? On my 60 BSA A10 I fitted a 68/70 Triumph style TLS brake and it works the balls. Even the conical hub TLS on my 71 Bonnie does a good job if properly adjusted.
Thanks
 
Mike,
Go to dogT posts on that front brake.He just went through his lately.
YING
 
Yeah, if you arc/sand the shoes down to fit the drum and get the TLS adjusted correctly it's a perfectly acceptable front brake. Some say as good as the disk, but I can't compare, I don't have a disk. I put some RGM (Commando Specialties) high friction shoes on recently, but can't say it's that much better than the original set up right, at least I don't notice it. If you have plenty of material on your shoes, just do the sanding, adjusting and centering.

My original set up shoes were maybe hitting on about 1" of one of the TLS, it was almost worse than dragging your feet. I couldn't believe the difference when I set them up. And I lived with them that way for a long time. I remember thinking it was better downshifting than using the front brake, not any more.

Dave
69S
 
'Cmon guys, Twin Leading Shoe. Each shoe has it's own cam, unlike the rear which operates from one cam for both shoes.

My new Norton


BTW, welcome.

Dave
69S
 
Speaking from bitter experience from my early days at N-V, you can make the drum brake work quite well, but not unless you add the stiffener kit to the backplate. I did the early testing to try and figure out why the brake was such a 97lb. weakling. The problem was that after the shoes contacted the drum, no amount of additional force on the handle would improve the stopping distance. At rest, it was possible to pull the brake lever all the way until it touched the twistgrip.

I did tests with brittle lacquer, a special clear paint that would flake off if distorted. We found that the brake backplate was too flexible and additional force applied to the input distorted it instead of increasing the force on the shoes. Management decided that a disk brake would be better and effort was put onto that project, expecting a quick result.

Unfortunately, the early designs tried to have a sliding disk, with a non-moving caliper. Every method we tried failed very quickly because the force being applied near the outer rim of the disk cause it to tip slightly and jam the sliding mechanism closer to the center of the disk.

Becuase of the time spent trying to get a disk brake to work, development of a stiffer backplate for the drum brake wasn't tackled immediately, and many of the first 2 years' production had the original drum set-up. I think the first stiffener kit was an outside vendor idea, but it was introduced in production after I quit the company. If your brake isn't stiffened, then I would STRONGLY advise you get the kit and do it.

Changing over to a disk brake isn't very complicated, but it is expensive. Folks on here who have done it will be able to give you more information.
 
Unfortunately the stiffening kit is pretty pricy. $200+ at Old Britts, and about $110 at RGM plus delivery. It's not just a matter of adding a plate, the pins and cams need replacing. RGM also sells a complete brake upgrade for £ 350.00 . I found the few dollars spent on arcing the shoes acceptable for my old man riding.

Dave
69S
 
Thanks-I've looked at the stiffener kits on Oldbritts site as I was told it's a good idea to fit one. If it does'nt have on now it will soon enough.
 
I also installed a front brake stiffener kit to my 71 Commando Fastback during restoration. Yes additional work must be done on the brake plate and the mod was not cheap. I can tell you that after several hundred miles of break in riding the brake performs very very well. I can even lock the front wheel if I am not careful with it. The effectiveness of the stiffened brake plate on the brake shoes is dramatic. Considering the virtual non performance of the rear brake I would very strongly recommend this TLS brake mod. After all, what is your life worth??? Just my two cents. Craig
 
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