My First Commando...

Only has adjuster at carb top. And it's wound fully into top, max slack. Could remove the lock nut to gain a bit more, but seems better to trim some outer casing back. I'll do that from twist grip side as then won't need to pull carb off to work on cable end.

Did you try removing the locknut from the cable adjuster like I suggested ?

Not tried anything just yet...giving it a break and come back at it tomorrow.
Is it ok to run without the locknut long term?

Yep it's fine,the locknut is there to provide adjustment/slack in the cable,
As you have no slack just wind the adjuster all the way down with out the locknut

Oh, you' re saying to remove whole adjuster, not just the locking nut on the adjuster? I've seen a video (lowbrow customs Amal carb setup) showing an option to mod carb top so the outer cable end fits properly into top without an adjuster...he drilled the threaded section out of top. This was for setups with another adjuster elsewhere on cable ( like at splitter etc).

Since I still have HiRider cable with correct free length at end, I can use it to compare to new cable and think I'll just remove nipple, trim outer, replace nipple.
But might try removing adjust or just lock nut as a test.

Tornado said:

Oh, you' re saying to remove whole adjuster, not just the locking nut on the adjuster?

Click to expand...

No, he is saying remove the nut, then refit the adjuster and screw it all the way down.

Tornado said:

I've seen a video (lowbrow customs Amal carb setup) showing an option to mod carb top so the outer cable end fits properly into top without an adjuster...he drilled the threaded section out of top. This was for setups with another adjuster elsewhere on cable ( like at splitter etc).

Click to expand...

Then it will require a top hat ferrule.
I suggest you keep the original adjuster as the cable may stretch in which case you can refit the nut.

It's unusual that you have a cable with the inner being too short,
Most of the cables I have bought that have been made wrong have been too long
Plus cable makers are probably copying non original cables etc
Throttles get changed over the years etc etc,
Are you certain the cable is correctly fitted in the carb?
And the adjuster at throttle (if it has the threaded type) isn't too long

Sounds like it could be cable route issue .... take a look at photos online of working Commandos and copy .... sounds like maybe you got weave going in frame .... make as straight a line as possible to carb from twist grip .... mine hangs off twist grip then through head steady direct to single carb .... is that how you have yours attached ?

Re. Craig " hangs off twist grip then through head steady direct to single carb .... is that how you have yours attached "

Pretty much. It was zip strapped to underside of spine, left of centerline, forward of headtube, crossing right at fork yokes and behind right fork tube to grip. I changed this yesterday try to reduce angles, make more slack by removing all zip straps, running under spine through head steady, left of centerline ( since carb top fitting sits slightly to left on the single carb manifold). Then goes right at rear side of headtube, thru triangle between spine, headtube and support member, then to grip. Both setups have lots of floppies in cable at grip...which makes me wonder how turning bars right
generates tension at carb throttle.

Need to take carb top of to confirm fitment, try adjuster lock nut removal, measure free end length compared to HiRider (which is also not OEM...bike had single carb setup when I got it...no splitter, other adjuster on that cable either, just longer).

If you can fetch up cable and affect idle by turning bars one way or the other ... either cable too short or your have route issue ... try the MOST direct route from twist grip to carb ... before hacking at brand new cable .... from your written discription of route it seems convoluted , but like someone else said without seeing it hard to give you a fix .... sure would not chop at new cable until exhausting all other possibilities ....

OK, think I found issue. Cable correctly seated into throttle slide. And top in correct position with tcable nearer center, choke to rear side. Measuring fee end it was only 1/16" shorter than Hirider...not likely enough to give problem b/c adjust should managed that small diff.

I reassembled without the lock nut to give an extra 1/8" slack, adjuster turned all way into carb top. Noted the cables both running
between spine and tank metal strap, and this was giving an angle to the tcable end cap as it sat in adjuster head. Worked some extra cable slack from front of bike back the carb top and got it to seat more squarely. Still has a near 90 degree bend to make as it comes up from carb...just no clearance directly above carb.

But, this, and/ or the missing lock nut, now gives me a metal bang feel via screw driver in idle screw when twist grip released...even at full right lock...was able to unwind idle screw much further than before (5-6 turns more) before losing that bang feeling at hard right.


Got to fire her up to confirm, Discover next problem(s)!

Confirmed, cable issue resolved. Bike now starting pretty consistently in four or five kicks. Seems to like idling 1-1.5 k...trying to go lower it tend to drop down to 500-750 range then likely sputters and dies. Adjusting pilot does not seem to have any effect, so guess still gummed up? I did get lots of carb cleaner thru and used a bit fine wire to poke around in it.

Anyhow, got bike rolling under its own steam today! Did a few lengths of alley behind my building to get feel for brakes, clutch. As it heated up, started getting reasonable amount of smoke of front of engine...inspection found a dribble of oil coming from right side rocker shaft cover. Later while cooling down I torqued these and the other cover bolts up...all were pretty lightly snugged.
Though critically low on fuel, decided to try for the station about 6 blocks away...taking side streets. Made it about four blocks before flame out. Noted fuel levels in both clear tubes to be no higher than top of float bowl...so I guess that's all she can use.
Walked her home.
Some observations:
When shifting 2nf to 1st, clutch held in, bike rolling, there was a ratcheting sound/feeling thru shifter that continued if I kept upward pressure on shifter...normal?
Front brake not feeling good. Lever coming in close to bars with not much braking force...pads certainly need bedding and will continue different bleed techniques.. some days it feels firmer than others.
Surprised at how large the turning radius is compared to my 2013 Bonne....I could not make a u-turn in the alley...so three-point turns are needed.
The existing V-Twin mirrors are crap...way to full sized view...can't see anything more than 1/2 of a car width behind me.
Huge engine shake just around 2-2.5k....then everything settles in. New ISO's certainly needed.


Got a jerry can of fresh fuel in now.

Too bad about the low fuel, seems like you are on the right track ! Congrats

Welcome to the world of commando.you will have to love it or quit. And sell.mine is not for sale

Shaking below 3 k is normal. It should go very smooth above that and stay smooth right to the redline. The answer is to stay above 3 k. Easy to do on country roads, not so easy in downtown Vancouver.


Glen

That shifting issue: sounds like you are between gears. Try to get the gear revs about the same by goosing the throttle a bit as you downshift and make a positive move with the boot to get past neutral. Keeping pressure on the lever while making a ratchet noise is probably not a good thing...
Also, I wd not leave the driveway until I cd get a nice bite with the front brake; the rear brake is not very effective, compared to a working front.
Might be time to rubber-band the lever back overnight?

BS shaking isolation occurring ~2000ish rpm is normal anything above that is merely common/ordinary ignorance lack of experience/knowledge, not factory level of isolation standard but new fangled iso rubbers are too stiff so beveling fronts to 1/4" flat rim solves - biplane vibes on grass field lift off to flying carpet smootthness at more sluggish traffic speeds in 4th - which is only time sleeve shaft bushing ever get even slight lubrication, to avoid-delay cascades of drive train related issues - show stoppers. I rode tested clapped out a worn/torn isolatic tooth shaker that did not isolate till 3000-ish to find was too fast for twistie Ozark hwy traffic flow so risked collision or numb/burning or wearing out sleeve bushes dry below 4th. Of course a myrid of other miss aligned components contribute so only the luckest most wise and mentored persistent folks or wealthy farmer outters ever get to experience the better than sex road orgasms of a 'fully fettered' Commando. So how much a logical tedious strained failure tolerant self respecting mechanic are you.

I've treated current head of Saudi, ARMCO family, Fawzi, and handled their women with attendants monitoring, any one else would of been beheaded, ok, but Commandos fettering skills and scope of issues routinely beat the snot out of my self esteem so learn from savoring everyone else's blank staring states. Oh yeah not bad idea to get a V8 set of your plugs to replace after intervals mis firing or starts as may cause fouling that mimics last issue actually solved but don't seem like it till living on witz of seasoned Commando owner.

Hobot, perhaps I'm not understanding your post, but it looks like misinformation.
Mike is new to these bikes, no use causing confusion conjuring up a problem that doesn't exist.
Glass smooth from 3000 to 6500 is all you need, and all the factory expected, from my reading of the development history.
They initially tried softer rubber which reduced the low rpm vibration but then high speed vibrations came back.
The compromise was a harder rubber that let some vibration thru below 3 k but ran very smooth above. It's a pretty good compromise.


Glen

"let some vibration thru below 3 k"...she shakes like a CRANK-ADDICTED Chihuahua on a cold day ;-)
What else to expect from 45 year old rubbers? I'm amazed the rpm stayed put with the carb flailing so fast it looked like I had fitted twin carbs!


I think I get what Hobot is implying,at least with my limited study of his dialect.

Mr. R. Is right about sorting that front brake before more "sea trials". I have done many nights of brake tied on, bars hard left to selfbleed. This kinda gives best solid feel next day, but seems to dissipate by next day. May have a stubborn bubble or maybe more lever filing needed.
To clarify the downshift to first grinding...I was not riding along pushing up on shifter...it was only when trying to ensure 1st fully engaged, lifting firmly only momentarily, that there was grinding feel. Shifter then released, as was clutch...and I was in first. Have not experienced this on the Bonne...is it to be expected, a skill thing (Rev matching) or indicative of a problem?

Got to ask the obvious .... if you were 6 blocks from fuel and you flamed out after 4 ... why not push bike 2 blocks for fuel and ride back instead of pushing 4 blocks back .... sorry, just had to