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Put my new Barnett Throttle cables on. Every thing is backed off Cable housings all look seated. I've got no free play. Started it up & went right up to about 2500-3000 rpms. Sounded very good but we can't have this. Only thing I haven't checked it the throttle itself but can't think what could be wrong there. It's dark now so will have to wait.

Also it continues to wet sump. I remember on the triumph every spring pulling out a little spring & piston & cleaning them. That was 30 + years ago & memory is sketchy.
 
Wolf
you should have about 1/16"-1/8" free play. check your adjuster near the twist grip end.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Wolf
you should have about 1/16"-1/8" free play. check your adjuster near the twist grip end.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
I haven't actually put a wrench on it but it is as recieved & no threads are visible so I figured its all the way closed
 
Wolfman said:
CanukNortonNut said:
Wolf
you should have about 1/16"-1/8" free play. check your adjuster near the twist grip end.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
I haven't actually put a wrench on it but it is as recieved & no threads are visible so I figured its all the way closed

Ok, check to make sure that all the cables are in there sockets on the 2into1 junction box and top of the carbs. Edit: I have found some of the new juction boxes to be too tight and not allowing the cables to seat properly. I am assuming you are using standard Amal Mk1 carbs.
Check your throttle twist grip location as well.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
Have you put cables in block inside junction box the wrong way around so nipple is on outside of block not sliding into it.

Apart from junction box check the cables and seats properly in the carb slide also. Am rebuilding a bike for a mate and found the soldier nipple at the ends was just fraction to large so cables would not bottom out and rotate freely in slide. Few seconds with a file or dremel cured it. Remember in neutral with no load on engine it takes very little lift on slide to get 2k engine speed so problem could be quite small.
 
There is a standard throttle grip and a quick action throttle grip for the Norton Commando. You need to have the correct throttle cable assembly to match the throttle grip assembly that is on your bike.


Peter Joe
 
I ran across this many years ago. Mike at AMR told me that there are 2 twist grips one for a 1/4 turn and another for a standard throttle. The cables aren't the same.
061451 or 064137 is for the standard twist grip. 064602 or 064601 is for the quick twist grip. the 061451 and 064602 are for US bars and the 064137 and 064601 are for euro style bars. Not sure what the exact difference is length wise.

John in Texas
 
N0rt0nelectr@ said:
061451 or 064137 is for the standard twist grip. 064602 or 064601 is for the quick twist grip. the 061451 and 064602 are for US bars and the 064137 and 064601 are for euro style bars. Not sure what the exact difference is length wise.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop/

061450 - THROTTLE CABLE -TWIST GRIP END (060923) 16.5" (3.06" F/LENGTH)
061451 - THROTTLE CABLE - TWIST GRIP END 24" (3.06" FREE LENGTH)
064137 - THROTTLE CABLE - TWIST GRIP END 21.25" (3.06" FREE LENGTH)
064601 - THROTTLE CABLE - TWIST GRIP END 21.25" (2.44" FREE LENGTH)
064602 - THROTTLE CABLE - TWIST GRIP END 25.25" (2.44" FREE LENGTH)
064638 - THROTTLE CABLE - TWIST GRIP END (062406) 29.5" (2.44" FREE LENGTH)
 
PeterJoe said:
There is a standard throttle grip and a quick action throttle grip for the Norton Commando. You need to have the correct throttle cable assembly to match the throttle grip assembly that is on your bike.


Peter Joe
Here is my throttle. The plastic nub will not rotate into the bottom 1/2 of the shell. It could be modified but hate to do that. I may have another grip but it would be buried deep in mt shed.
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Wolfman said:
The plastic nub will not rotate into the bottom 1/2 of the shell. It could be modified but hate to do that. I may have another grip but it would be buried deep in mt shed.

Possibly a mismatch of parts? I think the housing may be Doherty, and the sleeve/rotor could be a pattern Amal as the original sleeves were usually metal rather than what looks like nylon.
 
Some of us ancients never had such problems because we made our own cables AND when making one made several spares one spare being taped (lubricated and sealed to keep the water out!!) to the one in use because we learnt decades ago that cables sometimes fail, Sods Law stating they fail miles from home at the most inconvienent times such as in the early hours in the rain etc, and having a spare available enables one to continue ones journey with little delay. Mind you I suppose these days the great majority of owners simply drag out their mobile and scream for the break down service to take them home.........times change... Of course the thought does occure as to whether todays generation of owners are capable of shoving a nipple on a cable correctly so it stays on when used.......tis not the sort of skill one learns studying to become a useless greedy, unemployable accountant, politician or lawyer etc......
Phoned friend in the trade a few minutes ago asking if cables are often wrong these days and was told no but that owners have this habit iof fitting non standard levers / altering cable routing etc and then wondering why cables do ot fit.
 
J. M. Leadbeater said:
Some of us ancients never had such problems because we made our own cables AND when making one made several spares one spare being taped (lubricated and sealed to keep the water out!!) to the one in use because we learnt decades ago that cables sometimes fail, Sods Law stating they fail miles from home at the most inconvienent times such as in the early hours in the rain etc, and having a spare available enables one to continue ones journey with little delay. Mind you I suppose these days the great majority of owners simply drag out their mobile and scream for the break down service to take them home.........times change... Of course the thought does occure as to whether todays generation of owners are capable of shoving a nipple on a cable correctly so it stays on when used.......tis not the sort of skill one learns studying to become a useless greedy, unemployable accountant, politician or lawyer etc......
Phoned friend in the trade a few minutes ago asking if cables are often wrong these days and was told no but that owners have this habit iof fitting non standard levers / altering cable routing etc and then wondering why cables do ot fit.
all of my cables are lubed in a dommi camshaft oil bath that I smashed out a set of cases nigh on 60 years ago !! Never had a problem with them !!!!
 
I dug through some old parts and noticed that the cable slot diameter was different between the plastic and metal drums.
The part on the front right is from a dual cable throttle.
More Qestions (Cables)
 
PeterJoe said:
There is a standard throttle grip and a quick action throttle grip for the Norton Commando. You need to have the correct throttle cable assembly to match the throttle grip assembly that is on your bike.


Peter Joe

What makes one throttle standard and another quick action? Can you tell by looking at one or the other?
Jack
 
3Brits said:
What makes one throttle standard and another quick action? Can you tell by looking at one or the other?

Standard 06-2032:
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/15733
AN has changed the image.


AN appear to think 06-2032 and 06-4600 are the same or at least interchangeable although they use different cables :shock: :

06.2032/D
TWISTGRIP ASSY. (DOHERTY TYPE) (06.4600)

Curiously, the parts books list what appear to be Amal part numbers for the standard twistgrip components from '68 although they seem to Doherty units?
:?



Amal quick action (06-4600)
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The quick action rotor has no cable groove.
Image no longer available
 
Last edited:
If the one shown is the quick action one, it looks like my "very sensitive" one on my MkII that I'm having some trouble getting used to. So what does the standard one look like? All the ones with the standard MkIII number (06-6251) I've found on the internet from the various Norton suppliers look just like the one shown. No grooves.
Jack
 
3Brits said:
So what does the standard one look like? All the ones with the standard MkIII number (06-6251) I've found on the internet from the various Norton suppliers look just like the one shown. No grooves.

You said in a previous thread that your Mk3 doesn't have the standard Mk3 switch cluster and twist grip assembly.........

3Brits said:
My switch was changed when the bike was rebuilt in 2012 and I now have a separate switch and twist grip assembly

.....in which case the Mk3 06-6251 sleeve isn't what you need as the Mk3 twistgrip is also quick action.
 
Last edited:
That's what I was gettin' at. I've adjusted the clutch as suggested earlier and still have what I consider a problem with the initial take-off with the bike. As it is, the bike definitely throws you back in the saddle at take off and at gear shifts if you're not super gentle cranking' on the gas. I'm sure many others would love it like it is. But I don't have the ba--s I used to have and would like a bit gentler ease off. I'm hoping switching out the throttle might solve my problem.
Jack
 
3Brits said:
I'm hoping switching out the throttle might solve my problem.

As the current twist grip assembly still remains unidentified I can only suggest you try the standard 06-2032 twist grip (shown in my previous post).
 
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