Modify Commando clutch center onto Atlas shaft

What exactly is the required modification to the Commando center to make it work with the Atlas shaft? Does anybody do this to a stock center or are all the 'modified' centers started from scratch? The spendthrift are curious.
Cheers,
Darren

just change the atlas drive shaft to a commando one regards baz

if you really want to use your atlas shaft you can buy a commando blank clutch centre from rgm and bore it to fit your atlas shaft regards baz

I have brought a clutch centre from RGM that converts the Commando centre for the Atlas sharft, I think it cost 46 ponds, fits straight on no mahining at all, as I am going to run a Commando clutch and belt drive on my Manxman Norton.

Ashley

If you are thinking of replacing the Atlas clutch with a Cdo clutch, be aware that the cush drive center of the Atlas clutch is essential to prevent gears from shedding teeth. It would be necessary to install cush drive rear wheel hub to compensate.

The spider ( part of the Atlas cush drive) is failure prone, but replacing spiders is easier than replacing gears.

I also bought a RGM modified clutch center. It is a stock commando center with a bored out pocket for a washer to be welded in.
The washer was not seated square and wobbled like drunk sailor. I rebored it out and put a hardened washer. Welded it back in and tested for square and I had taken 95% of the wobble out. The whole load is supported by squeezing the flat washer against the end of the main shaft. The final result was still not satisfactory for me and not held rigid enough. I will be putting a commando main shaft as the real solution.

my very first belt drive for my first Triton back in about 87 , I purchased I'm sure from Norvil also had the welded washer on a Commando center. probably the most economical way to fit a later clutch, belt drive or whatever to the pre Commando.

I believe the only difference between the two main shafts is that the commando one is about 6mm longer than the atlas one to the shoulder the clutch sits up against. I use a dominator type clutch on my TTI gearbox, so it sits out about 6mm too far when using the single row primary, - I made a carrier for Jawa speedway sprockets to fit the Norton crankshaft taper - sprocket now floats on a spline. You are trying to make the Atlas shaft longer, so you need a spacer. If you intend using the triple row primary chain, you might need to check the alignment of the engine sprocket with the clutch, in case the taper on the crank is slightly different. However you are probably fitting a belt drive ?

When I fit a Commando clutch center to Commando and Dominator mainshafts the grooves and lands on both the center and shaft bind up solidly in roughly the stock positions on both mainshafts. The Dominator mainshaft locates the clutch center perhaps 3/8" inboard compared to the Commando mainshaft. The nose of the sleeve gear would have to be cut down a bit more than 3/8" for the clutch center to ground solidly on the Dominator shaft while providing rotational clearance.

If the clutch basket, engine sprocket and primary case can also be moved inboard satisfactorily the Dominator setup might even be a little more robust with the shorter shaft and the rotating primary mass moved closer to the center line. Losing a third sleeve-gear bush might be acceptable with two bushes arranged at either end of the shorter sleeve-gear barrel



Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyageer.net

Thanks for the tips. I'm planning on switching to a beltdrive, and the whole thing is on a total rat project so i'm not worried about holding any proper chainline. The wheel i'm using does indeed have a cush drive.
The threads on the atlas shaft appear a bit buggered, and since i want to open the box up to replace the layshaft bearing i think the best plan will be to swap main shafts.
Thanks again.
Darren