Mk3 isolastic adjusters
- Thread starter FastFred
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Norvils Iso's are 3/4 UNF which are 16 TPI half a turn would be 32 thou. One sixth of a turn will be 10 thou.FastFred said:
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Well work it out , 3/4 UNF =16 TPI is 1000 divide by 16 = 63 thou 1/6 turn is ten thou. well it was when i went shool,FastFred said:
BUT its not quite that simple, threads have back lash [axial play] so when the bolt is tightened the adjuster will be forced closer..as lab says better to just measure it,
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Picked off '08 URL above
Hehe, add rubber or less gap and add annoyance they had to pay cops and team racers to tolerate.
D/t variations in rubber and squareness of chassis components its hard to predict what works in one build vs another. Nothing beats laborious trial-error to get low down smooth rider w/o upsetting the riding, but these are mutually exclusive of each other w/o the full tri-linkage kit. Hick way to tailor front rubber compliance is bench grinder a blunt angled ~45' peak on cushions. Less blunt, more pointy = more softer and visa versa. On rear I stuff in at least 2 extra cushions as that is where all the forces of road and engine focus-pivot.
Even with the full roddage I still had to stay close to factory gaps or Peel got wobbles or I got buzzed, tuned just right > rods slack, front gap a bit open, rear a bit tight > I've a flying carpet on skis with a disappearing act.
My almost dialed in, all new adjusting iso'd Trixie '72, acts and feels exactly like all the descriptions by everyone else. Nice enough not to numb-tingle rider d/t her rather blunted vibration getting through over 3000 but its still there in bars or pegs or one of her mirrors until over 70 when road texture and wind blast match or exceed the engine part. I KNOW better than press her to hinged onset after I crept up on it to know how and when it does onset and not ever NEVER do that again in public. The rest of you may learn that the harder way if not discovering it on your own terms. Did I ever mention low air trial? I should.
The single most safe and effective way I know to access handling and isolastic setting is to zig zag in lane on ~1/3 air'd down tires. Its exactly the same physics and reversed control onsets as any racer on full stable tires - just at rates you can
learn from the easy way. Be-Aware this can easy cause tires to leap off surface.
On normal PSI my Trixie '72 starts to lift - hi side wobble about 35 mph, my SV650 about 45 but so far Peels good to do it over 55. After that the forks get too hard to fling fast enough d/t wheel gyro's, so to go faster sharper in one lane needs dramatic transition energy phase of handling angles and power no one else does so far w/o crashing, I think because they don't yet know what they are missing out on with a too rigid or too soft over all chassis for storing dampening energy input till released as an aimed sling shot design. Nothing but road grip should get though, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Hehe, add rubber or less gap and add annoyance they had to pay cops and team racers to tolerate.
D/t variations in rubber and squareness of chassis components its hard to predict what works in one build vs another. Nothing beats laborious trial-error to get low down smooth rider w/o upsetting the riding, but these are mutually exclusive of each other w/o the full tri-linkage kit. Hick way to tailor front rubber compliance is bench grinder a blunt angled ~45' peak on cushions. Less blunt, more pointy = more softer and visa versa. On rear I stuff in at least 2 extra cushions as that is where all the forces of road and engine focus-pivot.
Even with the full roddage I still had to stay close to factory gaps or Peel got wobbles or I got buzzed, tuned just right > rods slack, front gap a bit open, rear a bit tight > I've a flying carpet on skis with a disappearing act.
My almost dialed in, all new adjusting iso'd Trixie '72, acts and feels exactly like all the descriptions by everyone else. Nice enough not to numb-tingle rider d/t her rather blunted vibration getting through over 3000 but its still there in bars or pegs or one of her mirrors until over 70 when road texture and wind blast match or exceed the engine part. I KNOW better than press her to hinged onset after I crept up on it to know how and when it does onset and not ever NEVER do that again in public. The rest of you may learn that the harder way if not discovering it on your own terms. Did I ever mention low air trial? I should.
The single most safe and effective way I know to access handling and isolastic setting is to zig zag in lane on ~1/3 air'd down tires. Its exactly the same physics and reversed control onsets as any racer on full stable tires - just at rates you can
learn from the easy way. Be-Aware this can easy cause tires to leap off surface.
On normal PSI my Trixie '72 starts to lift - hi side wobble about 35 mph, my SV650 about 45 but so far Peels good to do it over 55. After that the forks get too hard to fling fast enough d/t wheel gyro's, so to go faster sharper in one lane needs dramatic transition energy phase of handling angles and power no one else does so far w/o crashing, I think because they don't yet know what they are missing out on with a too rigid or too soft over all chassis for storing dampening energy input till released as an aimed sling shot design. Nothing but road grip should get though, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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Whatever feels safe and correct for youself and other road drivers. Keep adjusting as it is simpler than shimming headaches , especially the rear adjuster.No golden formula on this one.Search for that "sweet spot", lock her down to recommended torque and test ride again. Enjoy.
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