MK3 Crankshaft Oil Seal

Hi all,

Can someone please give me the part number for the Crankshaft oil seal on a MK3 .. This is the oil seal on the shaft behind the Sprag sprocket drum ..
I would also like to hear from someone who can tell me how to pluck out this seal without damaging the shaft.. I have removed the wire retaining clip but the seal seems really well seated and I don't want to start trying to dig it out ..

Cheers
Paul ..

06-7567 is the number from the replacement parts catalog.
The seal is close to the rollers so be careful if you use a pick or screws to remove.
Lisle sell a hand tool made to slip between the crank and seal lip. Oil it up and be careful and the seal will pop out safely and painlessly.
Putting the new one in properly is more of a challenge. I made up a stepped driving sleeve to control squareness and depth.
The cases do not have a step in the bore to control installed depth or alignment, do not hammer the seal down into the rollers.
All the Best.

Wet sump killed the existing one?

Glen

Hi.
Here´s the parts manual for MK3
http://britmoto.com/manuals/Manuals/8503e_pt.pdf
Dan

Yes Glen this may have been caused by the old wet sumping but I did have to apply heat to the shaft to release a frozen front Engine Sprocket and did at the time feel uncomfortable about what the heat might do ? .. Can this be a common fault with wet sumping, I have one of those non return inline ball valves in my T160 but I have heard they can give trouble ? ...

Thank you Dan for the link to the parts manual (most helpful) & AntrimMan for the advise on removal, I am down under in NZ so would you be able to give me a link or an address for purchase of the "Lisle" seal removing tool ..

Cheers
Paul

Here´s the workshop manual as well.
http://britmoto.com/manuals/Manuals/850_man.pdf
Dan

nznorton said:

Yes Glen this may have been caused by the old wet sumping but I did have to apply heat to the shaft to release a frozen front Engine Sprocket and did at the time feel uncomfortable about what the heat might do ? .. Can this be a common fault with wet sumping, I have one of those non return inline ball valves in my T160 but I have heard they can give trouble ? ...

Thank you Dan for the link to the parts manual (most helpful) & AntrimMan for the advise on removal, I am down under in NZ so would you be able to give me a link or an address for purchase of the "Lisle" seal removing tool ..

Cheers
Paul

Click to expand...

Hi Paul ,
you say your bike is a MK3 they have a inlet plunger check fitted in the timing cover for that very reason to stop wet sumping , it may be the case it is stuck open or broken return spring or tied spring check it out and ensure it functions ok they ore prone to gumming up the plunger with crud the spring is of a very light tension so any crud and there is not enough force from the spring to close it replace the special oil pump cover seal( 06-6190 sealing washer spring 06-6198 and that should fix any issues Dave .

"Thank you Dan for the link to the parts manual (most helpful) & AntrimMan for the advise on removal, I am down under in NZ so would you be able to give me a link or an address for purchase of the "Lisle" seal removing tool .. "


http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/prod ... roduct=365
the product number is 58430.
There are other manufacturers of similar products too.

since you had to beat and then heat the sprocket off you will have some burrs to remove. Look at the crank up near the seal and stone off any burrs. To keep the swarf out of the rollers do it before you remove the existing seal. If you have an indicator you should check the runout near the threads before you put the new seal in. It's probably ok but only you were there when the hammer was used.
Use some brake cleaner or such on a rag to clean the crank in the area of the sprocket woodruff seat, squeaky clean, and apply a strip of vinyl electrical tape over the seat to protect the seal from the sharp edges. The edges of the seat are sharp as two bastards. Then put some engine oil on the area and over the tape too. Now put the seal into place followed by the circlip. Peel off the tape, if it is in under the seal don't worry, just pulling it out as one complete strip won't hurt anything, just be confident it is all out.
All the Best.

Thanks AntrimMan

I have researched your help with the seal removing tool and have come up with 2 others available here in NZ.. Please check my images and let me know if either of the other 2 (non red handle) would do the job OK without marking the crankshaft ?.. I have included for other members an image of the suggested red handled Lisle Tool.. This lisle tool certainly looks to be the best option but I will need to have one shipped from the US.. Thoughts please ..

Cheers
Paul ..

The red handle Lisle is intended for use with the shaft in place.
It, or any others with the same use intent are ok to use.
The other two items shown in your pics are for use with the shaft removed and are not suitable for your seal removal.
Lacking access to the red handled tool perhaps you could use an exacto knife to cut away the seal lip from the metal shell.
That would leave some room to get a thicker lip type puller in there, ie blood blister hammer.
There is always the sheet metal screw method too. Lots of men do it that way, just be careful as to depth. The rollers are in close proximity to the seal.
Any local auto parts store in the US has or can order the Lisle one. They are/were also on ebay and amazon.
I don't know about whats involved in having one posted to your locale.
All the Best.

Hi Antriman,,

Thank you for taking the time to explain, I have just found and ordered the Lisle on e-bay, postage is of course nearly as much as the tool but as you say it is certainly the right tool for the job.. Cranks don't come cheap so has to be the best way to treat this job ..

Cheers Paul