Mk3 chain ring burs

Lost a chain and scuffed up the outer side of my rear sprocket. I used a fine rat tail file to chamfer off high spots and burs from the tooth face. I think it will be ok with some added fine Emory cloth to smooth out the rough spots. I've added a new X ring chain so I'm not too keen on ruining a new chain among other things.
So maybe I'm better off plunking down 120-200 for a new one?

If the rear sprocket is not hardened steel I think that any deformation or file marks will wear out ok, but if it's hardened I think it will be a different story.

Your input is appreciated.

pics please...

typically, if you take off the raised metal, then all is well.

I'd clean it up and re-use it. Cant see it warping at all but check for any crack(s).

Pics are a royal pain here for me. But I'm going to reuse it after a bath in brake clean to check for damage. These teeth seem to be rather flatten and not as pointy to me. I'll see if I can't sort a pic out this afternoon for best feedback. The front and rear of the teeth appear symmetrical so chain slip while noticed a few times (thought it was the clutch slipping) must not have been too damaging.

Pics posting a Royal pain for me too so I drag friends or neighbours by to help when I feel nothing but a pic. will work. Our Prez. feels Photo bucket to now be antiquated like our bikes and talks of Drop Box. As for your sprocket any slippings off of the teeth is bad , don't you adjust or tighten it ever ? Comparing it with a new unit is my advice now ,All 3 components should show similar wear. If a brand new component is added it will wear to match the other 2. I'd check the drive sprocket and final. New chain goes unsaid.

If a chain slips on the sprocket even once it is done. It sounds to me like it is toast and I would suggest you replace both sprockets to go with the new chain. False economy to do otherwise.

I concur with Triumph2.
Put a new chain on a knackered sprocket and premature chain failure is assured...as is employing a chain incorrectly tensioned, aligned and lubricated.......

The teeth have proper shape front and rear. The left axle was not tightened properly and moved forward slightly permitting a very bad situation. No wreck and no damage to anything other than the chain guard and a 30 + yo chain that needed a replacement.

My only major question was if the steel was hardened if so I thought anything Less than a very smooth surface or a chamfered edge might damage a new chain. Close inspection without old chain wax and grim shows the sprockets to be acceptable.

I really don't like the Cush drive not seating tightly on the sprocket face. I tried to get the Cush rubber in the unit tightly and locked the ring down with a spanner that feels seated. Anymore torque on that ring and I'm afraid I'll strip the ring or the spanner holes. I think the sprocket should seat without ANY gap. I think there is 1.5 mm gap maybe? Other folks have said this was the norm, it doesn't seem right to me. There isn't that much surface area with those tiny short paddles on the sprocket. I must say I've owned 15 or so street bikes most 80s to current and this setup is the worst aftert thought I've ever seen.

It has a gap. Someone designed in the gap to upset people for 40 or more years into the future. :shock:

Torontonian said:

It has a gap. Someone designed in the gap to upset people for 40 or more years into the future. :shock:

Click to expand...

Job done! By Norton that is... Going to try and see if I can tighten it up a little and double check my Cush rubbers once again. I want o see if the inner portion seats tighter w/o the rubbers and then replace them and try to take up some tolerance. Still thinking since I didn't buy a snowblower today I should just order up some mag wheels and call it done.