Maxton or Falcon... ?

Fast Eddie · Apr 30, 2014

Al-otment said:
I'm a relatively light weight 11 and half stone and on a bit lighter than standard Mk3 Commando. Falcon advised on the 110lb/in springs for fast ish use (90mph) on bumpy (Shropshire) roads. They work very well on the really bumpy bits. I'm surprised they've recommended 90lb/in for your, er......size.

Hmm, thanks for that. I was curious, hence my question... now I'm more so! Reckon I'll ring them tomorrow to 'clarify'...

acotrel · Apr 30, 2014

I use Konis with 90 lb springs on my Seeley racer, and I weigh about 11 stone. 110lb wouldn't be good for racing on most of our circuits. I suggest the spring rate and damping depend on the application - on a road bike handling is probably not so critical , and there might be bigger bumps to contend with ? If you intend carrying a pillion .... ?

Al-otment · May 1, 2014

acotrel said:
I use Konis with 90 lb springs on my Seeley racer, and I weigh about 11 stone. 110lb wouldn't be good for racing on most of our circuits. I suggest the spring rate and damping depend on the application - on a road bike handling is probably not so critical , and there might be bigger bumps to contend with ? If you intend carrying a pillion .... ?

The 110lb/in springs are for solo road use, too soft for pillion and rider. I think the factory fitted 126lb/in single rate springs as standard. Public roads are far rougher than the average short circuit I would think, I've only experienced Cadwell Park which is super smooth in comparison to most rural roads. The forces going through a road bikes suspension and frame due to surface bumps, holes and irregularities are possibly greater than the input a race bike might be subjected too even allowing for the speed differential. Isle of Man etc excepted. Road or race the suspension and frame alignment is critical.

acotrel · May 1, 2014

I don't have a problem with frame alignment. It has to do with the amount of trail. until the present if I gassed the bike hard when laid over, it tightened it's line in corners. Recently I discovered the head of a bolt under the seat had been touching the tyre, so I wound the adjustment on the shocks up one notch. I know that the next time I ride it the handling will have altered slightly, because the compression of the rear shocks affects the rake, and thus the trail. It is a subtle effect however very important. With my bike and my riding style, I need to anticipate where it will end up as it comes out of corners when I ride it relaxed. If you actually have to drive a bike, that is not so good - it can be very tiring.

Fast Eddie · May 1, 2014

SteveA said:
Fast Eddie said:

SteveA said:

So falcon only respond to the phone :? .....how much for a pair of shocks? since they don't advertise any prices on their website.

Click to expand...

The chap there, Robin, was very polite and very helpful Steve. I only rang to enquire, but ordered there and then! The shocks are shown at £359.40 inc vat and delivery in UK on their web site!
Are you sure you've got the right web site mate? It looked to me as though it might be new-ish, perhaps your request got lost in the ether?!?

Click to expand...

Something odd about the site, which is apparently still under construction, but it is the same one I went to....

I did just find the page with pricing, but couldn't navigate back to it!.....

As I said before, all feedback I have from others on the shocks is good...., but if I get serious it looks like dog and bone....my application is not listed.....nor is my weight requirement ;-)

Steve, I can't remember if I phoned Falcon this Mon or Tue, I've been working away and got home tonight (Thur) and the bloody shocks were waiting for me!!

I got the alloy bodies, they are so light!

Very impressed!!

SteveA · May 2, 2014

And the spring rate Eddie?

Fast Eddie · May 2, 2014

SteveA said:
And the spring rate Eddie?

They delivered them before I got around to calling them to discuss it again!

So, I've got the 90lbs springs fitted, I've wound the pre-load adjuster up a little and they feel good so will try them and see. If they're too soft, it's an easy and cheap thing to change. They also make top eyes to alter the overall shock length, I'm going with standard 12.9" and will experiment with longer if it seems worthwhile.

At the current rate of progress though, it will be a good few weeks before I'll be able to test them out!

SteveA · May 2, 2014

Fast Eddie said:
At the current rate of progress though, it will be a good few weeks before I'll be able to test them out!

Sounds like light speed compared to my project....still everything now has a home.......having put lots of it together I am now about to take it all apart again!

Progress of a sort....

Fast Eddie · May 2, 2014

SteveA said:
Fast Eddie said:

At the current rate of progress though, it will be a good few weeks before I'll be able to test them out!

Click to expand...

Sounds like light speed compared to my project....still everything now has a home.......having put lots of it together I am now about to take it all apart again!

Progress of a sort....

I am quite a way behind my schedule Steve, I do as much as most of us can whilst juggling family and work and am testing my Mrs patience!

The reason for being behind is good old fashioned 'scope creep' as they say in project management worlds. It was only supposed to be a quick tidy up over winter. But I was the worlds worst person at saying 'no' and the 'I'll just do that bit too' approach has got really out of hand now!

But I'm sure many on here will know the feeling!!

worntorn · May 2, 2014

I was terrified to repair an electrical fault on my MK3 as it is a great running bike that only needed the charging system repaired.
I could envision that turning into a complete strip down with all possible upgrades added and a three year completion date.
Hence my illogical fear of a simple battery voltage monitor, as recommended by Eddie!
As it is, while the bike is laid up I decided to put some new rims on it. The original front rim has a big non repairable crunk in it, put there by the previous owner. The rear wheel is perfect. But since the front was getting replaced, wouldn't it be nice to upgrade both wheels to flanged alloys and stainless spokes? This is how it goes.

Those were ordered and shipped some time ago, finally laced the rear one up yesterday. As the tension started to come up to around 30 inch pounds, one of the nipples gave way.
Central Wheel shipped 8 gauge nipples for the 9 gauge spokes and I did not notice except to think the threads were a bit loose!
A phone call this morning and hopefully the correct nipples will be here early next week by airmail.

Everything seems to take longer than it should!

Fast Eddie · May 2, 2014

worntorn said:
I was terrified to repair an electrical fault on my MK3 as it is a great running bike that only needed the charging system repaired.
I could envision that turning into a complete strip down with all possible upgrades added and a three year completion date.
Hence my illogical fear of a simple battery voltage monitor, as recommended by Eddie!
As it is, while the bike is laid up I decided to put some new rims on it. The original front rim has a big non repairable crunk in it, put there by the previous owner. The rear wheel is perfect. But since the front was getting replaced, wouldn't it be nice to upgrade both wheels to flanged alloys and stainless spokes? This is how it goes.

Those were ordered and shipped some time ago, finally laced the rear one up yesterday. As the tension started to come up to around 30 inch pounds, one of the nipples gave way.
Central Wheel shipped 8 gauge nipples for the 9 gauge spokes and I did not notice except to think the threads were a bit loose!
A phone call this morning and hopefully the correct nipples will be here early next week by airmail.

Everything seems to take longer than it should!

Oh you've touched a nerve there... Don't talk to me about 'central wheels' and things 'taking longer than they should'...

I took mine in to them, they had all parts in stock they said, but they were busy, so they'd take 4 weeks. 5 weeks later, on the third attempt of getting a status report, I'm told they're waiting a shipment of rims, they haven't even started mine and don't know how long they'll be, they 'hope' I'll have my wheels in about another 3 weeks...

B+Bogus · May 2, 2014

Fast Eddie said:
Oh you've touched a nerve there... Don't talk to me about 'central wheels' and things 'taking longer than they should'...

I took mine in to them, they had all parts in stock they said, but they were busy, so they'd take 4 weeks. 5 weeks later, on the third attempt of getting a status report, I'm told they're waiting a shipment of rims, they haven't even started mine and don't know how long they'll be, they 'hope' I'll have my wheels in about another 3 weeks...

I've used Central Wheel in the past - I now use Hagon, based on the recommendation of Andy Molnar. They're still not super-fast; I don't think it's that kind of business, but they're straight, and definitely my preferred source nowadays.
That said, they've both delivered exactly what I asked for. I guess it's one of those 'must plan ahead' type jobs, like paintwork.

Fast Eddie · May 2, 2014

B+Bogus said:
Fast Eddie said:

Oh you've touched a nerve there... Don't talk to me about 'central wheels' and things 'taking longer than they should'...

I took mine in to them, they had all parts in stock they said, but they were busy, so they'd take 4 weeks. 5 weeks later, on the third attempt of getting a status report, I'm told they're waiting a shipment of rims, they haven't even started mine and don't know how long they'll be, they 'hope' I'll have my wheels in about another 3 weeks...

Click to expand...

I've used Central Wheel in the past - I now use Hagon, based on the recommendation of Andy Molnar. They're still not super-fast; I don't think it's that kind of business, but they're straight, and definitely my preferred source nowadays.
That said, they've both delivered exactly what I asked for. I guess it's one of those 'must plan ahead' type jobs, like paintwork.

Hi Andy, I thought about sulking and going to CW, collecting my not-even-started-yet wheels and taking them to Hagon or similar, but I figured I'd be at the back of their waiting list, whereas at least CW will feel some responsibility to pull their fingers out with my job. So I reckon I'll keep with the plan. I have also always been very pleased with their quality. Finger crossed!

john robert bould · May 7, 2014

A few years back my Triumph ally rim's came back with the spoke -nipple not straight..looks crap!

Al-otment · May 7, 2014

Any body had wheels built by N White where each spoke has a slight 's' bend in it? Current wheels were built by myself with rims, spokes and advice supplied by Doug Richardson http://www.drwheelbuilding.com/ no bent spokes because the rims Doug supplied where drilled by Doug to the correct angle for the Commando's hubs. Is it too much to expect when you pay top money for a service you get top quality work?

john robert bould · May 8, 2014

Yes the "s" shape, Alloy wheels tend to be worst than steel due to the steel being self aligning, thiner .
I was totally surprised that wheel builders guess the nipple hole drilling angle/ positions! But thinking about it, how else?

Al-otment · May 8, 2014

john robert bould said:
Yes the "s" shape, Alloy wheels tend to be worst than steel due to the steel being self aligning, thiner .
I was totally surprised that wheel builders guess the nipple hole drilling angle/ positions! But thinking about it, how else?

The crap ones will guess (or can't be arsed). The good ones have the correct data or can calculate (trigonometry) the correct angle and have the tools to accurately drill the rim to suit the hubs and required off set.

P.S I don't like the sound of thin 'self aligning'!? rims.

Maxton or Falcon... ?

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