MAINSTAND SPRING
- Thread starter willy mac
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Definintely the wood blades a better way than coins which tend to skew out of place while sticking them in to handling under bike. Many just put one bolt in center stand, hook spring at both ends then lever stand up to place second bolt in.
Easiest way for me was to install stand then stretch spring with a wire and handle grabber while a *3rd hand with pliers* aimed the spring hook into the stand hole.
Easiest way for me was to install stand then stretch spring with a wire and handle grabber while a *3rd hand with pliers* aimed the spring hook into the stand hole.
DogT
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If you have the rear wheel off, you can get behind the bike with your feet on the z plates or somewhere comfortable and pull it on with vice grips or a rope. At least that's what I did. It wasn't hard, but I've got the early one, the later ones may be heavier, I don't know. I saw recently where someone used tongue depressors, I suppose you could use pop-sickle sticks too. It's hot enough for them.
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
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:idea: Why don't you guys just get one of these for your toolbox?
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/35-0113.html
4 springs that come to mind on a commando that I use this for: Gearbox Kick start return spring, rear drum shoe springs on pre mk3, center stand and side stand. Life is grand when you have the proper tool for the job. :roll:
Cheers,
Tom
CNN
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/35-0113.html
4 springs that come to mind on a commando that I use this for: Gearbox Kick start return spring, rear drum shoe springs on pre mk3, center stand and side stand. Life is grand when you have the proper tool for the job. :roll:
Cheers,
Tom
CNN
I hate the coins and sticks and washer methods.
This is what i do.
1. Attach the spring at both points. Of course the centerstand is not connect but only by the spring.
2. Bring the left side into position so you can put a bolt through. This is NOT to fasten but to simply bring the side into place somewhat.
3. With the left in sort of position you will have the leverage to bring the right into position and put the bolts washers and nut on that side.
4. With the right side in more of a home position, you can now go back to the left and get it finished.
Snug it up.
Whether it's an older one, a newer one, or one in between with the step bushings, this works,
This is what i do.
1. Attach the spring at both points. Of course the centerstand is not connect but only by the spring.
2. Bring the left side into position so you can put a bolt through. This is NOT to fasten but to simply bring the side into place somewhat.
3. With the left in sort of position you will have the leverage to bring the right into position and put the bolts washers and nut on that side.
4. With the right side in more of a home position, you can now go back to the left and get it finished.
Snug it up.
Whether it's an older one, a newer one, or one in between with the step bushings, this works,
I've looked at the picture of Bwolfie's Combat and can see where the Spring would run with no Cartridge filter fitted, however I have one fitted and the spring would foul it. Has anyone else got a picture for the routing of the spring with a cartridge oil filter fitted?
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- Nov 20, 2004
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willy mac said:
Pivot bolt heads go inside the cradle, nuts on the outside.
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... &Plate=013
maylar
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Doing it alone is a chore. I put a piece of masking tape around the stand and mark it with a sharpie for the location of the hole, which isn't visible from the back. Then stretch the spring with a loop of 14 ga wire using a large screwdriver as a handle. Foot against the right footpeg for leverage.
Thanks for the pictures fella's, I found the reason for the spring fouling the filter, it was the filter mounted in the wrong position on the mounting plates. With that relocated the spring went on fairly easily using the "Connect spring to stand and frame then lever mainstand" method. One step closer to MOT. Once I've done that I'll post a few pics of the project.
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