Magneto’s lead
- Thread starter pierodn
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2009
- Messages
- 2,971
There is a convention (at least on Triumphs), that the lead from the rear pickup goes to the timing side plug.
But you’re the boss: you get to choose.
But you’re the boss: you get to choose.
texasSlick
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2013
- Messages
- 4,258
It depends on which ramp of the cam ring was used to set the timing. The upper ramp corresponds to the upper high tension lead (close to the barrels), the lower ramp to the lower high tension lead.
The factory set up used the lower ramp when the engine was at TDC on the left cylinder. Then the lower high tension lead went to the left cylinder.
The factory set up used the lower ramp when the engine was at TDC on the left cylinder. Then the lower high tension lead went to the left cylinder.
Hi Slick,
last time with magneto few months ago with a 1964 G15, but it is the same Atlas setting.
The ramps, one was at four oclock, the other ten oclock.
Bike didnt start because leads was inverted, then ffirssst kkkickk.
You mean "upper ramp" those at ten oclock?.
Thank you.
Piero
texasSlick
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2013
- Messages
- 4,258
Yes, upper is at 10 oclock, or you might call it 11 oclock, lower is at Four, (or five) oclock.
A complete guide to setting up and timing a K2F is here:
www.accessnorton.com
Slick
A complete guide to setting up and timing a K2F is here:
Setting up and Timing a K2F Magneto
It seems like this topic keeps coming up, and I have to write it over and over. Hopefully, one comprehensive discourse will settle it. If anyone finds anything confusing, please let me know so I can revise. The following procedure assumes the magneto armature is properly centered and aligned...
www.accessnorton.com
Slick
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2009
- Messages
- 2,971
The brass segment in the slip ring is visible through the pickup hole for the plug that is being fired.
Hi Slick,Yes, upper is at 10 oclock, or you might call it 11 oclock, lower is at Four, (or five) oclock.
A complete guide to setting up and timing a K2F is here:
Setting up and Timing a K2F Magneto
It seems like this topic keeps coming up, and I have to write it over and over. Hopefully, one comprehensive discourse will settle it. If anyone finds anything confusing, please let me know so I can revise. The following procedure assumes the magneto armature is properly centered and aligned...
Slick
thank you.
Piero
Please,
so sorry but is not easy for me translate everything but i want understand because i know that your information is important.
Could you so kindly to let me undersand?.
Thank you.
Piero
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 1,229
get a picture or diagram for Piero.
texasSlick
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2013
- Messages
- 4,258
Piero:
Triton Thrasher is saying if you remove the high tension pickup head, and look in the hole, you will see the brass segment on the slip ring.
In my opinion, this does not matter. Which high tension lead is about to fire, depends as I said in my first post .... it depends on which ramp on the cam ring was used to set up the timing.
When properly done, either ramp can be used to set the timing on either the left or right cylinder. There is no engine performance benefit to either way. For the sake of standardizing to the factory, I suggest setting up on the left cylinder, using the lower ramp, then routing the lower high tension lead to the left cylinder. See my tutorial (link above) for details. If you follow my step by step guide, your Atlas will conform to the factory set up.
Slick
Triton Thrasher is saying if you remove the high tension pickup head, and look in the hole, you will see the brass segment on the slip ring.
In my opinion, this does not matter. Which high tension lead is about to fire, depends as I said in my first post .... it depends on which ramp on the cam ring was used to set up the timing.
When properly done, either ramp can be used to set the timing on either the left or right cylinder. There is no engine performance benefit to either way. For the sake of standardizing to the factory, I suggest setting up on the left cylinder, using the lower ramp, then routing the lower high tension lead to the left cylinder. See my tutorial (link above) for details. If you follow my step by step guide, your Atlas will conform to the factory set up.
Slick
Please,
i need your help again.
My magneto was full rebuilt from Brightspark Magneto (335 GP spent).
But i have a doubt that the points gap was no checked and is not the same to both ramps.
Written them a dozen of times but bever had a reply; they neither replied to telephone (may be retired?).
In any case, i want to check the piunts gap and i will be very happy if you will can me understand the way to do it.
Thank you so much.
Piero
i need your help again.
My magneto was full rebuilt from Brightspark Magneto (335 GP spent).
But i have a doubt that the points gap was no checked and is not the same to both ramps.
Written them a dozen of times but bever had a reply; they neither replied to telephone (may be retired?).
In any case, i want to check the piunts gap and i will be very happy if you will can me understand the way to do it.
Thank you so much.
Piero
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2009
- Messages
- 2,971
What problem do you have with checking the points gap.
It’s a basic job for any old bike rider.
It’s a basic job for any old bike rider.
texasSlick
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2013
- Messages
- 4,258
It is easy when magneto is off bike, but it can be done on bike.
First, check that the leading edge profile of both cam ring ramps are the same. See my tutorial (link above).
Rotate engine until rubbing shoe is fully on leading edge of cam ring ramp. Use a thickness gauge to measure point gap. A magnifying glass helps to tell if gauge is going in straight, or is wedging points apart. Rotate to next ramp and measure again.
The thickness gauge should go between the points with very light resistance, and no visible movement of the points.
Slick
First, check that the leading edge profile of both cam ring ramps are the same. See my tutorial (link above).
Rotate engine until rubbing shoe is fully on leading edge of cam ring ramp. Use a thickness gauge to measure point gap. A magnifying glass helps to tell if gauge is going in straight, or is wedging points apart. Rotate to next ramp and measure again.
The thickness gauge should go between the points with very light resistance, and no visible movement of the points.
Slick
texasSlick
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2013
- Messages
- 4,258
The ramp is the high place on the cam ring that causes the points to open.
Slick
Slick
Thank you
Do you know if Brightspark accurately timed it to fire 0 and 180 degrees?
If yes there may be a difference in points gap if the y "shimmed" one corner to correct an incorrect timing.
texasSlick
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2013
- Messages
- 4,258
It's not a bodge, it was well known a d published in the wait for it, 1960s Motorcycle Mechanics.!
Correction, oh well! Its a bodge then!
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2009
- Messages
- 2,971
Skewing the points housing is less of a bodge than riding around with two different ignition timings.
