Luca Rita

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850cmndo

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Trying to isolate a wiring issue that's been biting me for some time. While double checking the Rita I find that the leads to the pickup, white/purple & white/orange are cold with the switch on. Is this normal until the reluctor passes the pickup? Dave?? You out there? Thanks in advance.
 
Why would they be warm or hot, these are low tension leads. Honestly never checked mine, though. What is malfunctioning?
 
illf8ed said:
Why would they be warm or hot, these are low tension leads. Honestly never checked mine, though. What is malfunctioning?

Not to the touch. Seeing nothing with a test light..... It'll run and then it won't. Suspect something going open somewhere. Thought I'd look things over before going to a new loom..
 
Hi 850 - I assume it's dynodave you're looking for, but until he chimes in, here's something that might help you diagnose a fault in your RITA: http://www.aoservices.co.uk/info/RITA.pdf

If you have a multi-tester, great. If not, beg or borrow one!

Lucas RITAs are robust and should last for years if the amplifier box is rubber mounted and earthed and the specified air gap between reluctor and pick up is maintained. I would be concerned if the wires got hot, although the coils will get warm if the ignition is left on for long.

Have you isolated the ignition switch and kill switch by running a wire directly from the battery to the coils and made sure your earth (ground) connections are rock solid? If it is still running intermittently, then it could be the RITA and you can do the tests in the link (above).

Does it misbehave when cold or when warmed up or both? Describe in more detail what actually happens.

It could be something as simple as a wire fractured internally or a loose or corroded bullet or spade connector.
 
850cmndo said:
Trying to isolate a wiring issue that's been biting me for some time. While double checking the Rita I find that the leads to the pickup, white/purple & white/orange are cold with the switch on. Is this normal until the reluctor passes the pickup? Dave?? You out there? Thanks in advance.

I should try and find my LR tech folder. I have a friends box to test and repair if needed.
I know that you should only test with a high impedance meter and not a test light. Depending on how you hook it up you could almost instantaneously blow the box/ input transistor or have done so already. A meter won't. I use a o-scope and my distributor machine.
I know I can fix them since I was buying all the parts to re-manufacture them, but later decided it was a fools mission.
$20 to test them including the pickup and rotor plus return postage. Fixing them is additional.
I've got about 50 LR units (most new), but no commando systems for sale.
 
850cmndo said:
illf8ed said:
Why would they be warm or hot, these are low tension leads. Honestly never checked mine, though. What is malfunctioning?

Not to the touch. Seeing nothing with a test light..... It'll run and then it won't. Suspect something going open somewhere. Thought I'd look things over before going to a new loom..

Wow, thought I only had difficulty with British English and Hobot. Sorry missed the meaning of "cold".
 
dynodave said:
850cmndo said:
Trying to isolate a wiring issue that's been biting me for some time. While double checking the Rita I find that the leads to the pickup, white/purple & white/orange are cold with the switch on. Is this normal until the reluctor passes the pickup? Dave?? You out there? Thanks in advance.

I should try and find my LR tech folder. I have a friends box to test and repair if needed.
I know that you should only test with a high impedance meter and not a test light. Depending on how you hook it up you could almost instantaneously blow the box/ input transistor or have done so already. A meter won't. I use a o-scope and my distributor machine.
I know I can fix them since I was buying all the parts to re-manufacture them, but later decided it was a fools mission.
$20 to test them including the pickup and rotor plus return postage. Fixing them is additional.
I've got about 50 LR units (most new), but no commando systems for sale.

Let me back up. With the key on I see nothing on the white/orange - white/purple leads coming from the box. That is, they are not "hot". The black coming from it is hot. The kill switch it still in line per the schematic and works/tests fine. In the past, I've always had spark when grounding the plugs to the head and cycling the switch. I haven't tried said test since poking around but will soon. It's my understanding that test will eliminate all but about 10% of potential failure. Don't ask me where I came up with that. Freaks me out to think this thing would blow after 33 years just because I introduced it to a simple test light. No disrespect there Dave as I do NOT profess to know what you do of these.
 
illf8ed said:
850cmndo said:
illf8ed said:
Why would they be warm or hot, these are low tension leads. Honestly never checked mine, though. What is malfunctioning?

Not to the touch. Seeing nothing with a test light..... It'll run and then it won't. Suspect something going open somewhere. Thought I'd look things over before going to a new loom..

Wow, thought I only had difficulty with British English and Hobot. Sorry missed the meaning of "cold".

I guess it never occurred to me....but really? A reference to Hobot?
 
Well it seems I didn't torch the box. The main power circuit tests ok, as it has in the past, as well as the triggering circuit. Is there still reason to suspect grounds following these tests? I'll be going through the rest of the harness regardless. I don't suspect the switch but I'm open to opinions.
 
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