Lost Clutch.

kerinorton said:

OOnortonOo you can edit your post. After entering it, you can go back in and look at the top of the area you write in. Click on Edit and change what you wrote.
I do it quite often because my fingers seem to be too big for the keyboard.

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concours said:

The transmission mainshaft/pushrod/actuator is suspect here. That RH bearing, being retained by the nut/pivot assembly must be examined. Have you checked that the items 33-39 shown here are all present and aligned as they should be? http://www.oldbritts.com/1973_g9.html

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L.A.B. said:

lwmcd1 said:

The stack height of the plates with pressure plate measured 1.246.
It should have been to large to fix in the large circlip but with difficulty I got it in.

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According to the dynodave data, normal stack height should be 1.167" (4 friction plate + "thick" pressure plate) or 1.172" (5 friction + "thin" pressure plate).

http://atlanticgreen.com/clutchpak.htm

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texasSlick said:

I am thinking like Concours .... that the diaphragm may be popping over center, or right on center. If this is the case, you should feel the pull in the lever suddenly diminish, like what happens drawing a compound bow.

I take it that the loss of clutch happens only under actual riding load. If you can make it happen on the center stand, then the cause should easily be found.

Good luck.

Slick

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texasSlick said:

I am thinking like Concours .... that the diaphragm may be popping over center, or right on center. If this is the case, you should feel the pull in the lever suddenly diminish, like what happens drawing a compound bow.

I take it that the loss of clutch happens only under actual riding load. If you can make it happen on the center stand, then the cause should easily be found.

Good luck.

Slick

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WZ507 said:

kerinorton said:

OOnortonOo you can edit your post. After entering it, you can go back in and look at the top of the area you write in. Click on Edit and change what you wrote.
I do it quite often because my fingers seem to be too big for the keyboard.

Click to expand...

Following a recent calamity here where significant volumes of information were deleted from posts via the original poster "editing" his post, I believe Jerry Doe changed the edit function to allow the original poster to edit for 24 hr, but thereafter editing access is denied. If I have this wrong perhaps a moderator could step in and clarify the editing policy.

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texasSlick said:

I think Old Brits offers a set of plain shim plates of various thickness to adjust the height. You pick the one you need and send the rest back. I would consider buying the whole lot, as you need to compensate for friction plate wear over time, and will need to swap out shim plates.

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Sorry, but we can no longer do shim plates due to the increased cost of precision grinding the plates. We may still have some shim plates in stock and when they are sold, they are gone. Check our clutch page Gearbox, Clutch for the plates we still have available. The shim plates that we do still have in stock are plates that we have precision ground on both sides to guarantee a true flat plate.

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lwmcd1 said:

concours said:

The transmission mainshaft/pushrod/actuator is suspect here. That RH bearing, being retained by the nut/pivot assembly must be examined. Have you checked that the items 33-39 shown here are all present and aligned as they should be? http://www.oldbritts.com/1973_g9.html

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Yes, thank you. I have checked those items and they all seem to work fine. Also I recently replace the center hub of the basket with a new hardened one. That's my dilemma, everything seems to be just as it should. I'll be checking more on the clutch height soonest to see if that will help. Though last time I checked it it appeared just right.

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kerinorton said:

sounds like you have had that problem for quite some time. I noted that you had to fit a thinner retaining circlip in the hub to hold the diaphragm. I don't think that is a good idea. Fix the problem and use the original double layered circlip [ not sure what its called ].
Dereck

When you refit the clutch hub, I suggest you get a hardened thick washer to go against the spline. Fit the lock tab on top of that then do it up. Remember , parrallel splines are not the best things for holding things together. There will always be play, and the shaft and hub will always rotate against each other. That's why those nuts always come loose [ and splines wear ], and hence you will always see wear on that washer. Never fit the soft lock tab against the spline for the now obvious reason.
[ and that's the reason why they use a taper to secure the drive sprocket to the crank shaft. ]

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kerinorton said:

Is there a possibility that a thick outer plate has been used instead of the thinner later version. The thicker earlier plate went with the 4 thicker clutch discs. The later thinner plate went with the 5 thinner discs. 5 worn discs plus the thicker plate might add up to the stack height he has.
I haven't experienced this kind of fault yet because my 2 bikes are still original. Mixing non matching parts is usually a problem. Has the clutch ever worked correctly on the bike in question while Larry has had it? Has someone " played around " with it?
Dereck

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lwmcd1 said:

Well guys I found the problem. I inner spline of the 063979 Clutch Center was worn smooth. So it was not turning with the sleeve gear when kicked over.Thanks loads for the help.

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