Locating headlamp ears...

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Would RTV be a suitable substance to locate and stop the headlamp ears in a 71?

I have just R&Rd the forks on my bike and pondering the best method to get them back together.

Charles
 
chasbmw said:
Would RTV be a suitable substance to locate and stop the headlamp ears in a 71?

Do you mean 'in place of', or 'as well as' the standard 061900 O-rings (3 each side = 2 below, 1 above)?
 
Are the o rings ment to fit inside the headlamp mounts or just stacked top an bottom?
 
Mine are stainless copies of the original style brackets as when I got my bike (rebuild project incomplete) they where missing but am not sure if the tube part is to long to allow all the three Orings to fit an not hold yokes apart before the stem nut pull them down against head bearings an spacer tube.
Does anyone know the correct length of original style brackets tubes and the correct length of original head bearings spacer tube??
 
toppy said:
Does anyone know the correct length of original style brackets tubes

I measured one, and it's 7-7/16" (189mm)
 
L.A.B. said:
toppy said:
Does anyone know the correct length of original style brackets tubes

I measured one, and it's 7-7/16" (189mm)

My Re-chromed 1972 bracket measures 187mm or 7.364" in the imperial measurement.
I am not sure if there is a difference between the years?
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
L.A.B. said:
chasbmw said:
Would RTV be a suitable substance to locate and stop the headlamp ears in a 71?

Do you mean 'in place of', or 'as well as' the standard 061900 O-rings (3 each side = 2 below, 1 above)?

In place of........trying to avoid removing top plate of triple tree...
 
chasbmw said:
L.A.B. said:
chasbmw said:
Would RTV be a suitable substance to locate and stop the headlamp ears in a 71?

Do you mean 'in place of', or 'as well as' the standard 061900 O-rings (3 each side = 2 below, 1 above)?

In place of........trying to avoid removing top plate of triple tree...

Why not just do it properly? :? (Slacken the nut on the underside, drop the lower yoke by 1/8" or so, fit the necessary parts, retighten the nut, and 'tab' it)

After all, as the stanchions have already been removed, it shouldn't prove too difficult a task to pull the yokes apart by approximately 1/8" in order to insert the bracket tubes. If either or both yokes are seized by rust, 'now' would be the ideal time to un-seize them.
 
Ugh one thing about Cdo's there ain't hardly anything to gain by seeming short cuts. I've knocked the stanciions out of the top and bottom yoke with the wheel/fender still on with frame on a strong crate or lever tube lift, single handed and back more than once but nicer if someone can help. I heat the top yoke some then back off the top nuts a good bit then wood plate over and 3 lb sludge pops em free. I kind of glue the oil rings in place before insertion now but even so frustrating error prone still rattles on assemblly repeat worship ritiuals.
I annoyed me no end keeping the thin oil rings in place while. Too often after fixing stuff like this electrical gremlins show up, form the swearing and stomping I assume.
 
Just measured mine as I stripped hole bike down to have frame powder coat for second time (rear loop repair was needed) they both measured 7.400" so they are between yours an Thomas's L.A.B so it looks like I may just fit 2 Orings not 3 as I remember when I fitted them with no Orings just as a trail fit there was only very small amount of play so it looks like it going to take few times assembling it all with different numbers of Orings in to get fit right. Oh joy NOT!!
 
you will be pissed
when you hear the ratttle because you didn't do what you were told Two orings at the bottom and 1 at the top

CNN
 
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