Left side main seal....

To change it out does the primary have to come all the way off the bike or can I simply remove the stator/alternator and gear having full access to the seal? It's leaking and filling the primary with extra oil hence the leak.

You can get to it leaving the inner primary on, once you have access screw 2 self tapping screws into the seal and carefully pull on the screw heads.

Okay, then all I have to remove is the parts on top of it right and not the entire primary system?

From memory there is not enough slack in the chain for you to get the front engine sprocket off without also removing the clutch basket at the same time. The front engine sprocket is on a taper and a good strong puller is required.

Yeah, what Kommando said.

The difference between keeping the inner cover on and off is three bolts, which will be exposed when you take off the primary drive sprocket.

If you have a stock footpeg, that comes off, temporarily - 3 nuts

outer cover comes off - 1 bolt

stator comes off - 3 nuts. there should be enough slack in the wire to lay the stator on top of the transmission.

Rotor comes off - one nut with a lot of torque, you may need to re-install the footpeg so you can apply the rear brake to keep the crank from rotating to get this off.

clutch comes off - nut and clutch adjusting screw come off, then the diaphram spring is removed by use of a home-made or special tool to compress the spring so the retaining circlip can be removed. leave the compressor on the diaphram, and remove as a unit. Now you can remove nut hold the clutch assembly itself in place. This nut is held by a tab washer, and again, you may have to apply the footbrake to hold the output shaft in place while taking the nut off.

Primary drive sprocket comes off the crank with the help of a puller. Once loose, you can slide the drive sprocket, chain and clutch off as a unit.

Seal is behind the primary sprocket, and you should see that it is loose, with the side facing you a little scored up from rubbing against the primary drive sprocket.

Clean the seal seat area really well with a good solvent. Put a little permatex around the outside of the new seal to help hold it in the seat and carefully press it in.

Re-assemble in reverse order. You may need to slacken the primary chain adjuster to re-fit the primary chain assembly (the thingy that moves the transmission in relation to the engine)

Should take about an hour if you have the tools.

That's good info. I have foward controls so no need to mess with the foot peg. I'm going to wait until I have the seal before I tear it apart. I will take pic's and create a new thread on the R&R of the seal replacement and post it. Then the mod's can make it a sticky if needed.

When you remove the clutch basket you will find a collared spacer and some shims over the trans main shaft which are responsible for proper alignment of the primary sprockets. Make sure you keep them in order for re-assembly. I usually loop a twist tie though them.

Also if you remove the inner cover, oil leaks from the bolt holes out of the crankcase. You can thread the bolts back into the crankcase to prevent this till you are ready to re-assemble although it may be a good time for an oil change anyway as this seepage is a nuisance when resealing the inner case to the crank case.

If you have oil leaking from the empty inner primary mounting holes in the crankcase don't you have a sump full of oil? Why not drain the sump before you remove these bolts?

I had completely rebuilt the engine of my 72 Combat, but was continually plagued with a leaky crankshaft seal. I replaced the seal many times. Even went to an expensive teflon seal. All to no avail. Finally, tried the Motormite vacuum brake check valve. This worked great for a few hundred miles. Then it would give up the ghost. Eventually I got around to installing a real PCV valve. No more oil leaks. The seal was not the problem. Crankcase pressure was.

JimC said:

If you have oil leaking from the empty inner primary mounting holes in the crankcase don't you have a sump full of oil? Why not drain the sump before you remove these bolts?

I had completely rebuilt the engine of my 72 Combat, but was continually plagued with a leaky crankshaft seal. I replaced the seal many times. Even went to an expensive teflon seal. All to no avail. Finally, tried the Motormite vacuum brake check valve. This worked great for a few hundred miles. Then it would give up the ghost. Eventually I got around to installing a real PCV valve. No more oil leaks. The seal was not the problem. Crankcase pressure was.

Click to expand...

Well a leaky seal would explain the excess oil in the primary right? I don't see anywhere else it would come from. I will still replace it and also where do you put the PCV valve in the system?

Put a PCV valve inline. That is, in the breather hose going from the crankcase to the oil tank. You are entirely right Chopped, the oil is leaking thru the seal, but the seal is not the problem. I repeat, it's the crankcase pressure forcing oil thru the seal. Also, you need to stop the engine from wet sumping. Or at least drain the crankcase if the bike has not been running for some length of time before you fire up. A crankcase full of oil is going to be forced somewhere on the very first down stroke. The breather may not be able to handle all of it. Then it will look for the path of next least resistance. Maybe a crankshaft seal?

I'd like to add, once you install a PCV valve most other oil leaks mysteriously disappear. Such as tach drive.

Okay I will do that.

I found out why the bike dies when I ride it. Today while running it in the driveway the bike runs great with the head/tail light off. Once you turn the lights on it will run for about 1 minute then stop. It won't restart with the lights on but will right away with them off. I even started the bike and removed the battery's pos/ground cable and the bike stay's running so the alternator is giving enough juice.

What is causing the bike to stop when the lights are on? Is the zener, rectifier or both trash? I think I'm just gonna buy a voltage regulator and remove the zener and rectifier once and for all.

chopped850 said:

What is causing the bike to stop when the lights are on? Is the zener, rectifier or both trash? I think I'm just gonna buy a voltage regulator and remove the zener and rectifier once and for all.

Click to expand...

If you are certain that everything is connected as it should be, the battery is in good condition (holds a charge) and there is AC output from the stator, then it is probable that one (or both) of those components has failed?
After all, the Zener wasn't connected before, so that may be a clue that it had been disconnected by the PO because it wasn't regulating correctly?

L.A.B. said:

chopped850 said:

What is causing the bike to stop when the lights are on? Is the zener, rectifier or both trash? I think I'm just gonna buy a voltage regulator and remove the zener and rectifier once and for all.

Click to expand...

If you are certain that everything is connected as it should be, the battery is in good condition (holds a charge) and there is AC output from the stator, then it is probable that one (or both) of those components has failed?
After all, the Zener wasn't connected before, so that may be a clue that it had been disconnected by the PO because it wasn't regulating correctly?

Click to expand...

I agree. If the zener was unplugged then the battery is also shot. So I'm gonna buy a voltage regulator and a new battery. I'm running a halogen light on the bike so it's sucking alot of juice.

I just talked to the gent over at fairspares and he agrees that the zener or rectifier or both are the problem and kill the battery. So I have a voltage regulator enroute and will also buy a new battery. The problem should then be solved.

Yesterday I removed the rectifier and zener. The back disc on the rectifier was disconnected from the one in front of it. It's unknown how long it's been like that but it was a problem. The wire from the battery connects to that disc so I'm convinced it was the problem and not the zener as previously thought.

If anyone needs a zener and or the heat sink let me know.