LED main, pilot & stop/tail light upgrade.

Bonzo

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I have sent Paul Goff an email asking for advice on which of the above would be suitable for my Commando ('74 850 mk2 +earth).

Until I hear back from him, would anyone who has made the upgrade care to offer any recommendations?

The stop/tail light would be the mk2 LB12 light board I would think, but which main & pilot would fit in the original shell with minimum faff?

I don't ride much at night, but like to keep the lights on during the day for visibilty.

Cheers
 
I made the very same upgrades on my MkII and reached out to Mr. Goff to supply it.
I changed every light source to LED, turn indicators, gauge lights, everything.
I offered a detailed description of my motorcycles electrical configuration and existing bulb receptacles along with what I wanted/needed in terms of upgrades.
He set me up with everything needed. No returns required.
 
Spoke to Paul and he has recommended the BPFLD as a straight plug in for the headlight (£27.95)

 
Spoke to Paul and he has recommended the BPFLD as a straight plug in for the headlight (£27.95)

Good choice if you’re looking for ’easy’.

If you’re looking for the best upgrade:

SPECIAL OFFER 6 1/2" Headlamp + Daylighter H4 LED5K + bulbholders Pt.no. HL375537.5K £71.95

IMHO
 
Regardless of who supplies your lighting upgrades the LED route was really a big improvement over tungsten filament. Especially the head and tail lamp.
I am now much brighter and can be seen coming or going much earlier in traffic, be it day or night.
 
Good choice if you’re looking for ’easy’.

If you’re looking for the best upgrade:

SPECIAL OFFER 6 1/2" Headlamp + Daylighter H4 LED5K + bulbholders Pt.no. HL375537.5K £71.95

IMHO
Hi FE,
Why 6 1/2"? Is his headlight shell not 7"?

Ed
 
Hi FE,
Why 6 1/2"? Is his headlight shell not 7"?

Ed
Yes it probably is isn’t it !

In that case, a 7” lens might fit better.

Actually, whilst we’re at it, this is what I’d fit, it’s the slim lens Wipac, gives more room in the (sometimes crowded) headlamp shell. Yes a new lens is a bit more money, but you get to use the superior 5k bulb. AND you’ll be able to use other improved H4 replacement versions that come along in future too…

1 x Daylighter H4 LED5K + Lucas 7.0" H4 headlight & connector £84.95 (Normal price £87.90)

Pt.no. H4LEDLUC5K
 
Yes it probably is isn’t it !

In that case, a 7” lens might fit better.

Actually, whilst we’re at it, this is what I’d fit, it’s the slim lens Wipac, gives more room in the (sometimes crowded) headlamp shell. Yes a new lens is a bit more money, but you get to use the superior 5k bulb. AND you’ll be able to use other improved H4 replacement versions that come along in future too…

1 x Daylighter H4 LED5K + Lucas 7.0" H4 headlight & connector £84.95 (Normal price £87.90)

Pt.no. H4LEDLUC5K
Nigel,
That’s what I used and like the extra room inside the shell.
Mike
 
OK, so I have swapped the original headlight bulb to Paul Goffs Daylighter BPF LED bulb, however, when on dip beam, both the upper & lower side are lit (i.e. high beam). Flicking the r/h handlebar switch up, or pressing the 'flasher' button (green light on the outer shell illuminated) knocks out the upper side of the LED's (i.e. low beam).

Swapping back to the original bulb confirms it works as it should o_O

#confuseddotcom
 
OK, so I have swapped the original headlight bulb to Paul Goffs Daylighter BPF LED bulb, however, when on dip beam, both the upper & lower side are lit (i.e. high beam). Flicking the r/h handlebar switch up, or pressing the 'flasher' button (green light on the outer shell illuminated) knocks out the upper side of the LED's (i.e. low beam).

Swapping back to the original bulb confirms it works as it should o_O

#confuseddotcom
Obviously I can’t see what you see. But, I do know that LEDe light up the reflector so much that it can be difficult to see what’s happening in there. Best way to judge it is to sit on the bike and look at the beam pattern when switch from main to dip in order to test the functionality and see what’s going on.
 
I'd love to post a pic, but it's impossible to photograph. It's difficult to even look at without imprinting a pattern on your eyes for 10 minutes.

The top bank of LEDs definitely go off when switched to high beam though.
 
I'd love to post a pic, but it's impossible to photograph. It's difficult to even look at without imprinting a pattern on your eyes for 10 minutes.

The top bank of LEDs definitely go off when switched to high beam though.
Maybe they’re supposed to?

I’d assemble it and look at the beam pattern before concluding anything personally.
 
OK, so I have swapped the original headlight bulb to Paul Goffs Daylighter BPF LED bulb, however, when on dip beam, both the upper & lower side are lit (i.e. high beam). Flicking the r/h handlebar switch up, or pressing the 'flasher' button (green light on the outer shell illuminated) knocks out the upper side of the LED's (i.e. low beam).

Swapping back to the original bulb confirms it works as it should o_O

Try removing the main beam warning lamp bulb.
 
OK, so I have swapped the original headlight bulb to Paul Goffs Daylighter BPF LED bulb, however, when on dip beam, both the upper & lower side are lit (i.e. high beam). Flicking the r/h handlebar switch up, or pressing the 'flasher' button (green light on the outer shell illuminated) knocks out the upper side of the LED's (i.e. low beam).

Swapping back to the original bulb confirms it works as it should o_O

#confuseddotcom
I have experienced the same, but since I want to be clearly seen when I ride (I don't ride at night) I don't worry about using the dip beam at all.
But, why/what would removing the warning light bulb achieve?
 
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