LED headlight

Status
Not open for further replies.
mike996

mike996

Joined
Oct 29, 2006
Messages
1,075
I see that Trucklite has a newer version of the LED headlight that looks better to me than their first version did http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/st ... ctId=92025

But it seems to me that it still has that protrusion past the headlight ring that I found objectionable in the original though maybe not quite so obtrusive. Does anyone have the latest version with a pic in the bike?

Like many folks, I'm looking at trying to reduce the current draw in normal operation since I now run with the headlight on, which I never used to with the Commando. I see that CNW has a LED taillight that will work in the early or late taillight housing so I'll probably order that. I guess they haven't yet found an LED headlight that they like. I can't handle the look of the original Trucklite but I'm hoping the current one doesn't stick out or, if it does, not enough to be objectionable.
 
I have actually purchased 2 of them..1 in my Atlas and Commando...
 
All the lights on my bike are LED except for the headlight which is a H4 halogen. I am giving serious thought to changing it but apart from concerns of space as LEDs have fans and/or heat sinks attached to them can someone explain about the different power outputs of some types over others. I wish to have the most powerful light possible so if the electrical power consumption is the same or only slightly less that a conventional 45/55w bulb that is not such an issue but do i just look for the highest rating in lumens? I think i read somewhere that the lumen rating affected the colour of light given off is this true and if so is one rating better than another as far as night vision is concerned?
 
For LED's ignore the wattage and look for the Lumens, this is a measure of the amount of light they emit, a standard H4 puts out 1100-1500 lumens and draws 55-60 watts to do so.
 
I agree that more light is better. OTOH, personally, I'm OK with the amount of light provided with an oem type setup - I don't INTENTIONALLY ride at night here in Mexico though if I did, I'd mount an auxiliary generator and a Super Oscar to be able to see the cows/coyotes/goats/sheep/donkeys, etc on the road!

I'm most interested in a headlight to operate at all times as a running light at a lower wattage than the standard 45/55 or thereabouts. The critical thing also is that it has to fit exactly the same as the oem - not protrude or otherwise change the external appearance of the headlight/shell
 
There is no protruding of the glass lens because any lens can be used that accepts the 3 prong type bulbs..I use a Lucas headlight that fits an H4 bulb...The LED bulb fits perfectly, with.no outwards signs it is there...Lower current draw as you had mentioned with the added bonus of more light...And if you have a correct headlight it only cost $30..
 
So I went ahead and got an LED bulb, at $22 shipped it was cheap enough.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UX5 ... ge_o00_s00

LED headlight


LED headlight


LED headlight

At the back of the bulb is the fan, some LED bulbs have rather large fans and this one is one of, if not the smallest I found. Still it hit the light switch in the headlight shell, but just when getting the headlight back in. Once in place it doesn't hit the switch.

LED headlight

Sine I had already converted to a halogen bulb I didn't have much to do. Obviously if you have the stock wiring and positive ground you'll need to make some changes.

LED headlight

Pop out the old bulb and use the correct adapter ring, and well, there was no step three...

LED headlight

It's VERY bright. I want to get it out on the road at night but during the day you WILL get the attention of the nearly blind drivers.

I'm tempted to get one for the Triumph too.
 
swooshdave said:
So I went ahead and got an LED bulb, at $22 shipped it was cheap enough.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UX5 ... ge_o00_s00
Click to expand...
Looking at the listing, I can't find any mention of polarity sensitivity. Okay for positive earth? I see it works fine on yours. Here's the write-up on the install for my old girl: https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/permanent-solution-to-dim-commando-headlight.17544/
One of the main reasons I bought this unit was that it was compatible with a lot of late-model vehicles that run positive earth on the headlights (Toyota?) and was a drop-in to the Hella H4 reflector. I put this on late in '14, and have ridden close to 3000 miles since with no issue. On of the first things I noticed was how much it interacts with the reflective signs and cat eyes in the road.

Nathan
 
Nater_Potater said:
swooshdave said:
So I went ahead and got an LED bulb, at $22 shipped it was cheap enough.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UX5 ... ge_o00_s00
Click to expand...
Looking at the listing, I can't find any mention of polarity sensitivity. Okay for positive earth? I see it works fine on yours. Here's the write-up on the install for my old girl: permanent-solution-dim-commando-headlight-t20361-45.html
One of the main reasons I bought this unit was that it was compatible with a lot of late-model vehicles that run positive earth on the headlights (Toyota?) and was a drop-in to the Hella H4 reflector. I put this on late in '14, and have ridden close to 3000 miles since with no issue. On of the first things I noticed was how much it interacts with the reflective signs and cat eyes in the road.

Nathan
Click to expand...

I don't know about positive earth, I have a negative earth.
 
I fitted a LED headlight 'globe' a while ago and because of the low current draw have the headlight wired so high, low and the LED pilot beams can all be on. This is really handy at highway speeds during new moon on secondary roads in the rain. The post reflectors and road white line are well illuminated but animal eyes either don't light up or animals were not out and about that particular night.
Ta.
 
These LEDs are not polarity sensitive, they fit both type earths, the very latest ones have dropped the bulky fan and instead have long flexible metal mesh strips coming out the back for cooling, I will be getting these next but for now I have even got a fan cooled one inside a 5 3/4" headlamp shell.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-lot ... 13518.html
 
While the lower amperage of LED components is attractive, I'd be interested to know the effect this will have on our stators, especially for those of us running SHUNT style regulator/rectifier boxes (podtronics, sparx, boyer etc...).

This past winter I upgraded my speed triple to these LED H4's from cyclops adventure sports (will not trust the cheaper chinese units) http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3 ... _p_83.html

Before I did that, I upgraded the reg/rectifier to a SERIES style from a CanAm, with a custom made triumph harness. Remember that no matter the demands of the system, the stator is always putting out max power and the excess has to go somewhere. In the case of a SHUNT rectifier (which draws max output from the stator regardless of system load), the excess is grounded back to the stator, which in turn generates heat, which in turn shortens its lifespan. This is a very real problem on modern bikes, and one of the reasons there's such a large aftermarket in replacement stators and recitifiers. The riders swapping their lighting for LEDs are mesmorized by the promise of "lower draw" and don't consider that they are also creating more excess amps which, in turn, get shunted to ground.

The series style operates more like a car alternator, only drawing what's necessary, thereby being MUCH kinder to the stator. My own tests on the speed triple show a significant decrease in stator operating temp with the series rectifier.

Again, I'm not entirely certain if this is a major concern on our vintage bike (maybe less for those still running a zener setup), but it has yet to be mentioned in any of these threads.

edit: one other thing to consider is the beam cutoff problems with these units, as our reflectors were designed to generate a beam patterns from a halogen unit. These led's are far more diffused, and many have found that the cut off is less pronounced, and that they must lower the angle of the headlamp to avoid blinding oncoming vehicles. The newer unit I linked has shims to address this problem.
 
acadian said:
While the lower amperage of LED components is attractive, I'd be interested to know the effect this will have on our stators, especially for those of us running SHUNT style regulator/rectifier boxes (podtronics, sparx, boyer etc...).

This past winter I upgraded my speed triple to these LED H4's from cyclops adventure sports (will not trust the cheaper chinese units) http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3 ... _p_83.html

Before I did that, I upgraded the reg/rectifier to a SERIES style from a CanAm, with a custom made triumph harness. Remember that no matter the demands of the system, the stator is always putting out max power and the excess has to go somewhere. In the case of a SHUNT rectifier (which draws max output from the stator regardless of system load), the excess is grounded back to the stator, which in turn generates heat, which in turn shortens its lifespan. This is a very real problem on modern bikes, and one of the reasons there's such a large aftermarket in replacement stators and recitifiers.

The series style operates more like a car alternator, only drawing what's necessary, thereby being MUCH kinder to the stator. My own tests on the speed triple show a significant decrease in stator operating temp with the series rectifier.

Again, I'm not entirely certain if this is a major concern on our vintage bike (maybe less for those still running a zener setup), but it has yet to be mentioned in any of these threads.
Click to expand...

+1.... Running a 45W H4 halogen lamp (on at ALL TIMES) with all original single phase stator, zener and rectifier. Battery is always topped up, no issues. The current is being produced, may as well use it. Anyone have thoughts on zener life with reduced current draw? I know most are retrofitted Podtronics, so limited exposure.
 
concours said:
+1.... Running a 45W H4 halogen lamp (on at ALL TIMES) with all original single phase stator, zener and rectifier. Battery is always topped up, no issues. The current is being produced, may as well use it. Anyone have thoughts on zener life with reduced current draw? I know most are retrofitted Podtronics, so limited exposure.
Click to expand...

That's a good point concours, the original pattern diode/rectifier setup shunts the excess to a separate rectifier rather than the stator. Same problem as with shunt reg/rec combo boxes, but I suppose it's easier (and cheaper) to replace one rectifier rather than a stator and a powerbox.

Thinking more on this, those of us running three phase systems are exasperating the problem. I wonder if the proliferation of deteriorating three phase stators can be connected? I know most blame it on cracked wires at the potting, but could overheating stators resulting from excess shunted amps be partly to blame?
 
I'm looking for an H4 headlight lens/reflector for my LED headlight bulb and I've noticed that the glass lens pattern come in 2 styles. RHD (right hand dip) and LHD (left hand dip). This is usually done with a triangular pattern on right or left side of the glass lens. I'm trying to determine which is correct lens pattern for US right hand driving. My spider senses tell me to order a LHD to keep from blinding the oncoming traffic in the left lane. Is this correct?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top